2017 is a great year for the fragrance industry. Among great launches of this year, Aura Mugler is definitely one to highlight. We have already written a full review that you can read here about Aura Mugler. Now we have taken a closer look into the Fragrance and the Flacon during the Swiss launch in Lausanne. These are two important topics that will explain why we think Aura Mugler is a great Mugler.
Aura Mugler, the Fragrance
What makes a Mugler fragrance a Mugler fragrance? Not an easy question to answer. There are Fragrance Brands who are known for their distinctive olfactory signature. And Mugler is one of them. Year after year, launch after launch Mugler has shaped its olfactory footprint and all Mugler fragrances have a high common denominator, a powerful sharpness with a lot of generosity. From Angel, to Alien, now Aura but also the masculine fragrances like A*Men, they all share a common olfactory terroir, the creator’s “griffe”. Short, straight forward formulas with true olfactory mono-blocs from which contrasting notes rivals in a surprising harmony.
“Mugler is inviting us to listen to our senses, the brand is a true creator of paradoxes” – Marie Stern, Marketing Director Fragrances – Clarins
With Aura Mugler, we can see there is an olfactory heritage of Mugler fragrance creation work. The 4 perfumers who have been working very hard to bring to life the story of Aura Mugler, have shaped a fragrance that completely follows the Mugler griffe. Daphné Bugey, Amandine Clerc Marie, Christophe Raynaud and Marie Salamagne have chosen a strong battle of olfactory overdoses. Pierre Aulas, the Olfactive Artistic Director of Mugler, has orchestrated this outstanding quatuor to accomplish a great fragrance. By working with Firmenich, Mugler had access to probably one of the most innovative olfactory palette. For such an outstanding fragrance, one key element was put at play: The Liane Fauve or Tiger Liana. Recently discovered by Firmenich, The Liane Fauve or the “Tiger Liana” is a traditional Chinese medicinal plant that heals heart disease and contributes to balance the body. From an olfactory point of view, it is a very facetted scent. Rich, rough and smoky, yet sensual as well as exquisite. In order to master this force of nature, the Perfumers have carefully crafted an original olfactory structure. It is the roots that are used and extracted from the plant. It took Firmenich 10 years to study the plant, analyse it, register the ingredient and be able to use it. The Liane Fauve reflects perfectly the concept of the new Mugler fragrance. It has this astonishing combination between botanical and animal scent, which is the heart of the olfactory story. Hints of almond and vanilla is expressed surrounded by a smoky “wrap-up”.
The other main ingredients are:
- Rhubarb leaf
- Orange Flower (new distillation process)
- Vanilla pod Bourbon
- Firmenich Wolfwood® (Firmenich exclusive)
In order to explain further the context of this fragrance, these are the words of Pierre Aulas, Olfactive Artistic Director:
“For some years now, Fragrances have returned to become more Oriental, more sensual, without daring the animals notes. We propose a return of animalic notes, but in a modern way, without using raw materials from the beginning of last century. We put plants at the service of animalic notes and reinvent the olfactory family Oriental Green in the Mugler way. We used botanical raw materials” – Pierre Aulas, Olfactive Artistic Director
When you discover the fragrance for the first time, it is a true journey. Like every Mugler fragrance you get confused as you think you recognize familiar elements and still cannot identify them. It is like smelling something you know and still you cannot put words on it… until you get it. Here is my thoughts while evaluating the fragrance.
Aura Mugler within the very first minutes
The very first seconds that you spray the fragrance on your skin, you really wonder what is going to be. With Mugler you never know. It is always surprising and captivating. With the very first olfactory notes, we are in presence of an unusual freshness. While many brands will capitalize on citrus notes, Aura Mugler has a more dazzling and sharp freshness. We experience a titanic ballet between the metallic Rhubarb and the brightness of Orange Blossom. Behind these first emotions, a true olfactory pulse emanates a strong vibrancy that is by far one of the most original notes scented this year. The freshness establishes itself little by little and leaves the room to a wild floral facet.
Aura Mugler after an hour
The fragrance continues to develop into a modern animalic structure, Textured and deep woods rivals with a more botalical yet original accord. The main structure is both rich, sophisticated and original, yet very sharp as a ray of light. The fragrance, as all Mugler fragrances, is for sure quite polarizing. If you like this scent you will probably only experience it at Mugler’s.
Aura Mugler, the flacon
Faithful to one of the best glass making in Perfumery, Mugler asked for the talents of Verreries Brosse, the high-end of glass-making. Founded in 1854, Verreries Brosse initially produced and sold pharmaceutical vials, ointment jars and bottles for Master Perfumers. Verreries Brosse is currently the only European glassmaker able to manufacture a complete product line ranging from: miniatures, essential oils, EDP’s or EDT’s, jars, limited editions, display factice bottles and carafes by either semi-automated or single/double gob automated production. They were the ones who made Angel and this time they have accmplished an amazing artwork. By looking closely to the flacon, we can see an outstanding glass work in terms of weight repartition. the backside edge goes from a heavy weight of glass to almost nothing. Also all the mould details were polished in order to maintain a beautiful elegance. The connection between the metallized parts and the glass are precisely well done. The glass was completely facetted in order to catch the light. Any ray of light will transform into a shiny fire.
The magnificent weight of glass is perfectly shared along the volume. All details were taken care of. One interesting point is the back of the flacon. There is an edge made of glass in the back, that when you look closely might have represented a true challenge for the Glass-Master. Making sure that the glass weight gets to that edge was definitely an accomplishment. In the pictures below you can see this specific detail.
When discussing with Laurent Malaveille, CEO of Clarins Group Switzerland, he is confident that Aura Mugler will find its audience. The fragrance market needs true amazing creations in order to escape from the daily routine.
“With Aura Mugler, we are creating the third pillar of the brand, after Angel and Alien. The brand is putting a lot behind this launch because there is a true believe it will be a success” – Laurent Malaveille, CEO Clarins Group Switzerland.
By looking at all detail in this new fragrance, it is clear that Mugler wants to impose a new pillar for the Brand together with Angel and Alien. As always, Mugler invested in quality and know-how to bring to market a great product. In a year in which not so many brands dare to go beyond standards, Mugler is raising the level. After the lucky Star and the Precious amulette, here is the heart of nature.
José Amorim
Info sourced in the Swiss launch of Aura Mugler. Many thanks to Laurent Malaveille, Marie Stern, Carine Delorme and all the team from Clarins Switzerland for the welcome and the caring. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. First animated image by Holymage.
