Androgynous Models
Girls who are boys
They can switch up their look and transform from a man into a woman in the blink of an eye. They model men’s and women’s clothes and on stage you hardly know that the super sexy woman model is, well, actually a male. Andrej Pejic, Lea T. and Tilda Swinton are just few of the androgynous models. The boundaries between men and women were never so blurry.
In the 21st century it seems like boundaries no longer exist. Internet and smart phones bridge gaps of place and time, unisex clothes blur the differences between male and female. When it comes to fashion, designers and photographers are a crucial part of this tendency. Not only do they create fashion items that can fit both men and women, they are also using androgynous models that dare fashion visions and axiom as we know them.
Biologically speaking, androgynous is a human being who has both a male and female reproductive system. Androgynous models manage to ignite the imagination of many fashion designers and photographers.
Andrej Pejic is one of the most successful androgynous models out there. He was born in Serbia and always had a very unique and gentle look. Though his first steps in the fashion industry weren’t so easy, nowadays you can see him on the runways and on a plethora of fashion magazine covers.
Whereas other androgynous models specialize in modeling women’s or men’s wear, Pejic is most famous for his ability to model both genders. In January of 2011, Pejic walked for Jean Paul Gaultier during Paris Fashion Week dressed as a woman, and in Marc Jacobs’ show he modeled menswear. He also participated in Burberry Prosum fashion show and looked gorgeous on the runway surrounded by beautiful female models. Lately Pejic has been leading a campaign for a mega push-up bra for the Dutch company, Hema.
However, Andrej Pejic is not the only androgynous model you can see on ads. Brazilian Lea T. is another famous androgynous model, who Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci called “a true Goddess.” In 2010 she became the face of Givenchy and in January of 2011 she walked for Alexandre Herchcovitch during Sao Paolo fashion week. Her modeling career included several appearances on fashion magazines covers. Most controversial was the cover for Love Magazine where she was featured kissing Kate Moss.
- FTV Vidoes
- Kate Moss The Early Years
- Going Under - Designer Lingerie Collections
Tilda Swinton is a talented actress and a beautiful model who easily transforms herself from female to male. She is the face of Pringle of Scotland Fashion House and inspired a full Viktor & Rolf collection in 2003. Her ability to blur the boundaries between traditional genders was evident both on the runways and on the big screen where she played the role of Mozart in the movie “Orlando”.Late top designer Alexander McQueen also noticed the exotic androgynous trend. In his last menswear collection, McQueen included David Chiang, another famous androgynous model. Chiang is the first Asian male model ever to walk for Italian label Emporio Armani. His soft skin and smooth hair along with delicate facial features caught the eyes of fashion photographers such as Steven Klein and paved Chiang’s way to many well-known fashion magazines.
Androgynous models show more than anything that beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The fashion world has more than enough room to express every phenomena and style. The question is -- can you enjoy the show no matter who walks on the runway? If the answer is yes, we can be sure -- fashion has won.
Athena Wilson’s crystal blue persuasion
Rather appropriately, theCreatures of the Windshow this season was opened a girl who was just that: an otherworldly creature. Black-bobbed and statuesque,Athena Wilsonheralds a new era of bare-facedandrogynousbeauty. Based in New York, Athena also walked forMarc Jacobs,Fendi,VersusandChristopher Kane' SS13 shows. Now see her in the editorial 'Crystal Blue Persuasion'shot byCollier Schorrand styled byRobbie Spencerfor Dazed's January issue the, including three images exclusivley for Dazed Digital.
How did you find working on the shoot for this issue?
This was the most fun I've had on a shoot so far, everyone got on really well. For one shot, Yuri[Pleskun, male model]had to take an ice-cold shower because there was no warm water in the studio. He wasn’t expecting that!
How would you describe your style?
I just wear what I like on any given day. Usually there's a denim jacket and men's shoes involved. I rarely wear things without pockets.
What have been your career highlights so far?
Walking for Marc Jacobs in New York, Chris Kane in London, Fendi in Milan and Rick Owens in Paris this season. I’d never even been to Europe before and it didn’t hit me that I’d been in so many great shows until I got back home.
What are your ambitions for the future?
They’re simple: continuing to meet and collaborate with talented and creative people, in fashion and beyond.
Hair Holli Smith at Total Management, using Oribe Haircare
Make-upMaki Ryoke at Tim Howard Management using MAC cosmetics
Models Athena Wilson at Ford, Yuri Pleskun at Quest
Photographic assistant Emily Hope
Styling assistant Jonathan Hmilt
Digital operator Benedict Brink
To hell with poverty
Raf Simons's maxim "No neoprene no futurism, just cotton and wool" traces Arte Povera,the political art movement of 60s Italy – as in his vote prints. Futhermore, the Italian penisula has been nicknamed "Lo Stivale" –TheBoot. Hence Raf's sweaters withPuss in Bootsdetailing.
Arte Povera rejects technocracy and industrialization, both previously favoured by theFuturistsin Italy. Now in France, the leaders of arte povera are running through mens' collections like water pipes through concrete slab, from Raf to Junya towards Rick.
At Thom Browne, Erwin Wurm raises a Jannis Kounellis scarecrow for Browne's timber amish barn and then shoots two birds with one stone by framing a V for Louis Vuitton.
Not unlike Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, Arte Povera artists looked to the Big Apple, yet remained "conscious of possessing an inalienable Europen identity that was irreconcilable with any other", in the words of artistGermano Celant.
Still, when Gilberto Zorio and the Japanese Issey Miyake hook up, they look topleats pleaseto be true.
RAF SIMONS I
Luciano Fabro, L'Italia Ipocrita, 1996
RAF SIMONS II
Giovanni Anselmo, Il Panorama Fin Verso Oltramare, 1996
JUNYA WATANABE
Giovanni Anselmo, Grigi Che Si Alleggeriscono Verso Oltramare, 1994
RICK OWENS
Jannis Kounellis, Untitled, 1966
THOM BROWNE
ABOVE Jannis Kounellis BELOW Erwin Wurm, O.T (Cajetan Gril als Mnch), 2001-2003
LOUISVUITTON
Jannis Kounellis, Untitled, 2005
GIVENCHY
Michalengelo Pistoletto, Wollen, La Mera Reintegrata, 2007
ISSEY MIYAKE
Gilberto Zorio, Untitled, 1967
Chopard Jewelry: deal with the next biopic about Lady Di.
Fashion Roundup: Rihanna shines in the fashion spotlight; Mulberry debuts their ‘Del Rey’ handbags
Fashion Roundup: Rihanna shines in the fashion spotlight; Mulberry debuts their ‘Del Rey’ handbags
After making her way into the fashion world last week, Rihanna who was reportedly signed to produce a new fashion series with Sky's Living Channel, took an active role in one of the most spectacular events in fashion at Stella McCartney’s Fall/Winter 2012 party at London Fashion Week. (Guardian)
Mulberry launches a new Lana Del Rey handbag named after the high profiled singer. The ‘Del Rey’ debuted on Sunday (19.2) on Mulberry’s Fall show runway. (Fashionista)
Nicky Hilton, Coco Rocha, Angela Simmons and more…Celebs predict the big trends for Fall 2012- maxi skirts, less big jackets, baseball caps and a lot of leather. (Elle)
The much expected collaboration between Italian fashion label Marni and retail giant H&M was launched at a Hollywood party with an impressive guest list, which included among others stars Drew Barrymore, Mila Jovovich and Sofia Coppola, who also shot the campaign film for the collection in Morocco. The Spring collection is due to launch worldwide March 8. (Los Angeles Times)
Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2012 show at New York Fashion Week portrayed an astonishing return to the iconic Ralph Lauren look. (Forbes)
Closing our list of fashion highlights for this week, we bring you another great FashionTV video of Carolina Herrera's Fall/ Winter Show in NY Fashion Week, a fashion favorite of Lady Gaga and Nicky Minaj, taking up the designer's ladylike range to a whole other level. And the raised hair didn't hurt either.
Enjoy!
Fashion Roundup: WATCH Kate Upton’s Super Bowl Ad, Beyonce’s GQ Behind-the-Scenes, and More!
Fashion Roundup: WATCH Kate Upton’s Super Bowl Ad, Beyonce’s GQ Behind-the-Scenes, and More!
Vanessa Paradis is shining since her split up with fashion icon Johnny Depp. The French singer-come-actress and model signed a major modeling deal with H&M, working as the face for their Conscious eco-friendly collection. The 40-year-old said “I try my best to shop consciously, and vintage is very much part of my wardrobe.” (Huffington Post)
Sundance Film Festival is reaching it’s peak these days, with several films buzzing their way to the festival’s finish line. Leading the way is Steve Carell’s $10 million film ‘The Way, Way Back’ about a relationship between a 14-year-old and a waterpark manager played by Sam Rockwell, who is making a huge comeback this year. Another anticipated film is ‘Before Midnight’ starring Ethan Hawke, which will be the third part in the romantic trilogy that includes cult film ‘Before Sunrise’ and ‘Before Sunset.’ (E! Online)
Fashion cover of the week goes to… Lana Del Rey! Who is featured on the March 2013 cover of Numero Tokyo wearing a very red, Japanese-style bow and a red apple. The cover was shot by photographer Mariano Vivanco. (Fashion Gone Rogue)
Fans are torn between whose GQ cover was the hottest- Rihanna or Beyonce? Well if you’re still not convinced take a look at this amazing behind-the-scenes footage of Beyonc’s photoshoot photographed by Terry Richardson. Looks like somebody had fun… (Styleite)
It’s official! Nina Garcia takes center stage in the fashion hosting spotlight. The fashion director for Marie Claire was previously a judge on Project Runway and Style Voice, but she now gets her own show, hosting Decoding Style; a 10-episode makeover web series on AOL. (The Cut)
The Super Bowl is just around the corner, which means the hottest commercial break of the year will soon take place. But thankfully, we don’t have to wait to see Kate Upton’s slow-motion Mercedes-Benz commercial, because it’s already out! Take a look:
Iris Van Herpen Couture SS13
Iris Van Herpen is the first digital couturier, embracing technology and playing with the tension of adding the mechanical, the technological to the ever-so romantic art of high fashion.
In a huge circular salon at the Paris Intercontinental, a stone's throw from the Opra Garnier, the Dutch designer was inspired by her childhood dream to create and control lightning. We were treated to a performance of exactly that by a moving statue on a podium, setting the ambience for the pulsating beat of the show.
Van Herpen, interviewed in the February issue of Dazed, deals with science and biology to create her powerful world. She's the first couturier to employ 3D printing in a collection, with the latest multi-material technology contracting a skirt and cape that's both hard and soft in a single build, drawing on the multidimensionalism that human petit mains offer.
With such fantastic aspiration, Van Herpen is aware of the need to give her work a more tangible context. The clue to that was in the seating and exit music, by Grimes, who is also the face of the designer's new ready-to-wear campaign. In Clare Boucher she's found a pop muse to carry it off.
Read an exclsuive interview with Iris from the February issue
The German writers reworking Hitler
“Every German is obliged to ensure that the Holocaust is not forgotten” a pokerfaced Uwe Boll said, around the same time he was crowned The World’s Worst Filmmaker in the wake of his 2011 film, “Auschwitz”. His own contribution to the collective memory of the Shoah was memorable for all the wrong reasons; an upshot of the fact that Boll had already made a name for himself as the mastermind behind such video game film adaptations as, BloodRayne, House of the Dead (HoTD) and Alone in the Dark.
But subtler minds than Boll have shared his sentiment about speaking the unspeakable through art. This month, on a romp through the European lit scene, I happened upon two.
German writer, Timur Vermes, is a professional ghostwriter who has harnessed his ventriloquistic skills in his first novel to tackle one of the most brutal subjects imaginable –Adolf Hitler. The title– He’s Back – says something about the novel’s jocular tone, and something, too, about how the passing of time loosens tongues on even “unmentionable” topics. It’s 2011, and Hitler’s woken up with a raw headache having spent the night in the bunker with Eva Braun. He stumbles through Berlin, scratching his heavy head over where all the Russian soldiers went, like someone crawling home at 6am who swore they took their denim jacket to the party. Hitler paranoid as hell; he’s sure people are staring and laughing at him. They are, of course, because they think he’s a regular guy doing a Prince Harry – only funny. Hitler turns into a YouTube phenomenon. He’s filmed on a visit to the headquarters of a German fascist party, where he’s appalled by the lack of commitment to the cause that he sees amongst the young neo-Nazis. When they realise Hitler’s won a prestigious journalism award for exposing them, they jump him. Yes, Hitler gets jumped by Neo-Nazis. It’s Ali G meets Heil Honey I'm Home meetsFawlty Towers. (Or, in fact, just Fawlty Towers.)
The other German tackling the subject of Nazi Germany is graphic novelist, Reinhard Kleist. Since the publication of Cash and Castro, Kleist’s been steadily building a name for himself as the fore figure of a new wave of German author-illustrators. He has a studio with three other artists in Prenzlauer Berg. Der Boxer tells the life story of Hertzko Haft, who survives the Holocaust through a combination of physical resilience and devotion his sweetheart, Leah. Having been introduced to boxing for the amusement of the Nazi officers, after he escapes Hertzko decides to fight for a living in America, where he hopes he might also track down his girl. Kleist’s novel is a modern-day Maus in the most obvious sense. Kleist pays deference to the game-changing novel, but also explains his own deviations from Spiegleman’s Pulitzer prize-winner. As he explained over email: “Maus is still a very important book... I am not a fan of his idea to use animals as persons in the story. But this is part of the thinking process he did at that time … dealing with the thought “Can I do this?” Now we are able to deal with the subject more openly, which is not always good. I hate books (or movies) where the victims of the Holocaust are just sad looking puppets. They are human beings and … sometimes they are not good ones. That is something I want to provoke in the reader: Do I still identify with Hertzko after he … knowingly beat people to death?” Kleist cuts to the chase in that his characters are humans –pain is pain in this novel and some of the boxing scenes are beyond graphic; they’re brutal. Offsetting this are the text-less pages where images cross the frontier that language, according to Kleist, can’t. “My favourite scene from Der Boxer is when Hertzko has to work in a factory and comes home. There are no words, nothing much happens, but for him a whole world collapses.”
For me, the text never destroys the impact of Kleist’s drawings; he has a gift as deft as a fine short-story writer for delivering a line like a slap in the face (see, “I have no fear” and you’ll know what I mean). Luckily for the non-German readers, you can still relish the still movie that is Der Boxer. But this graphic novel is crying out for an English translation. For Boll’s sake, at least, somebody translate these silences.
Cover Image: Roger Wollstadt