Digital business: when Internet went from I.T. to Marketing.

Reading Time: 10 minutes

In the 60’s, Internet was not a dream anymore but a strong technical reality. Since then the World Wide Web developed rapidly and today, we cannot live in a world without internet. Of course today’s web activities have nothing to do with the first nods connected several decades ago. In the last 10 years, Internet evolved exponentially. From an I.T. pure activitiy driven by technology, today, internet became a marketing and business activity. The added value went from informatics infrastructure to be placed in the user experience and customer management.

World_Wide_web

Since the beginning of web activities within companies, the I.T. department became almost a second General Direction department. In deed, technology was key and hard to master. It also happened at the time in which computers invaded all companies, so IT had a strong role internal and external.

IT_Department

The iconic role of the webmaster was born. In deed every website had a Webmaster. Only in the name we would imagine a living god or at least someone between Thor and spiderman. Finally, it was more someone who could understand the challenges that many companies were facing in order to provide the best web technology. The investments were so huge, especially at the big companies that I.T. became either part of the General management or close.

 

Web 2.0 changed everything!

Internet became a global industry and the Business units inside the company started getting interested, especially Marketers. And in 1999, the web 2.0 was created. And this dramatically changed the way to approach the web and it started new internet activities.

webPointTwo

What is the web 2.0? This terminology was created in 1999 and the goal was to describe the evolution of simple static web pages. It was the start of a new generation of the world wide web in which the user experience was multiplied by 100 in terms of interactivity, disponibility and sophistication. While the beginning of internet was focusing on hardware, the web 2.0 was focusing on software. The “what to use” was getting overcome by “how to use”.
Companies started creating digital strategies and crystallizing many other professional areas:

  • Marketing
  • Sales
  • Customer Service
  • After-sales
  • CRM
  • etc…

The web 2.0 is built thanks to a rich user experience, even a user as contributor. We focus on the long tail rather the 3 key metrics. The relationship with the users are based on trust and it is everywhere: at home, in the office, on the dashboard of your car as well as on the watch at your wrist.

Web 2.0 was also the original field for the Social Media revolution. In deed the interconnectivity and the user participation as content producer, created an open area for Social media to arrive. In deed, If Internet was a evolution, Social media is THE revolution. There was a before and after social media. Society does not communicate and interact the same way than before. What differentiates Social media from the other media? It is an abreviation of 3 letters: U.G.C. = User Generated Content. And this is the mighty power of it. Every person in this planet can produce content for the web, so the web does not belong anymore to a few people sitting somewhere in high towers. The World Wide Web became finally …. world wide.

Social_Media

Companies are massively investing their money on Social media and on web interaction. They know that the key for success is to place the customer on the center of everything. In 2012, companies used to invest around 10.6% of their total revenue. This budget should increase by 10% in 2013.  In comparison, I.T. budgets were around 5% in 2012 of total revenue and should stay stable this year (source: gartner.com). According to Marketingweek.co.uk, Marketing budgets in 2013 will become just Digital Marketing budgets (a part the product development of course).

Luxury companies understood finally that Internet is not a bad quality channel, despite being a mass-media. Actually, they know that by investing the correct amount, they can finally express their brand territories the way they wish and not as the Distributor wants. Companies like Chanel, Prada, Burberry or Cartier, develop specific communication campaigns for online exclusively which make them very powerful as a Brand. And in these examples, Marketing definitely took over IT in terms of added-value.

Why IT lost its role ?

As the new web approach was to invest more in marketing and communications, budgets on those fields extremly increased in the past years, and project owners, the stakeholders, were now on those 2 departments. IT budgets did not evolve and as technology evolved faster than the I.T. teams inside the companies,  there was also an externalization phenomenon. According to Ludovic Mauconduit, e-Technology Manager at Kalyss SA, the I.T. department in a company lost their role of decision makers towards a role of execution.

Logic-of-means

In this role, the limitations in terms of added value are obvious. The I.T. department is requested to execute, most of the time simple tasks as most of the time. The Business units make briefs to external Digital marketing agencies that provide the concepts and the execution of those concepts. So most of the time, the I.T. department just execute simple tasks like DNS openings, sub-domain creations, etc… What Mr Mauconduit explains, is the need for a change of attitude.

Logic-of-consulting

All companies need a strong I.T. Department. Why? Because technology is crucial and projects became much more complex than 10 years ago. Several topics are supposed to be taken care of:

  • World wide dimension
  • Mobile compatibility (multiple OS, resolutions, versions…)
  • Multiple Product catalog management
  • Customer Service
  • CRM
  • Social Media
  • Short term projects and short timing.
  • Number of projects increase

For these reasons, the I.T. Department needs to be involved on the project definition and finalization. They own the Technology inside the company, so they should be able to support projects also with guidance.

Who’s Fault?

No one and everybody at the same time. Business units went very often “their way” without trying to bring the right internal teams together. They need to integrate the I.T. department from the birth of a project, in order to have a good start. Often, I.T. has resources that Business units do not have. They also have a global vision of the impacts of new projects on the company’s infrastructure. On the I.T. side, the current teams need to understand that their own jobs evolved from managing hardware towards Service provider. Service in terms of bringing solutions, providing consultancy and manage delicate global projects that only I.T. would have the possibility to do so.

The risks

Without any change, the company value in terms of technology will decrease. Many topics around Internet are more and more outsourced to third-parties, and the risk here is that the knowledge and investments will escape the company to the profit of the external partners.

  • Hosting
  • Mobile
  • Email-Marketing
  • Micro-sites
  • Apps (Business and Consumer)
  • Digital goodies
  • Video Cloud
  • Intranet

Technology are cheaper and cheaper but processes are more and more complex. Soon, you will be able to find “everything on a cloud”. But cloud management became a big topic. As technology are more and more interconnected and interdependent, the technical project management is more complex to be handled. Nick Heath from Techrepublic.com explained on an article, called “IT departments warned: Evolve or die“, That a change is mandatory. In the article, he quotes Mr. David Wilde, CIO of Essex County Council: “It’s almost an adapt or die moment for a lot of the IT profession, if you don’t start being able to articulate and contextualise technology’s value add to service delivery then why are you there?

Evolve_or_die_technology

The Solution

Not so sure that a magical solution exists. But there are a couple of things companies should put in place in order to prepare the current and future challenges.

The first approach is to integrate I.T. into the project genesis. This can happen by having a strong Project Management office in-house. In deed PMO, can easily align internal resources in order to achieve a common goal. Business units need to start investing more into internal resources rather than contributing to the profits of so many external companies. So the I.T. manager should be the Marketing Director’s best friend!

The second approach is to provide an efficient and leading role to I.T. as technology stakeholders in-house. The I.T. department will need to evolve in terms of teams and roles. As explained, I.T is no longer a Hardware keeper, they are now in the position of Technology consultants. This means the nature of the teams will evolve, new roles will be created and an attitude towards Business will be used.

In order to motivate this changes, here are some of the future challenges that all companies will face within the next 2 years. Taken from an interesting article found on econsultancy.com:

  • The end of “Digital Beginning”. Now we have reached digital maturity. Competition is hard and technological core changes are here now. Companies will need to adapt and reshape their teams to this life in the “new normal”
  • The War for Digital Talent. According to a Forrester study about Digital teams in leading companies, the study showed that 60% of companies have Digital teams with less than 10 people. When you see that start ups like Google was back in time, have been leveraging digital talents for years, the rist here is to become a “big boring mammoth”.
  • Optimized cross-channel user experience. This is basically what should we be focusing on everyday. And though, we realize that many companies are very weak in Mobile or in integrating off-line and on-line strategies.
  • Focus on the head rather than the long tail. For a Digital marketer, this one is a hard one. Every digital marketing expert would tell you: Focus on the long tail as it will be much more cost efficient and you will grow your digital business in a sustainable way. But we often forget about the total amount of resources requested for that. Do companies have enough resources to focus on the hundreds of small blogs and queries rather than focus on the 3 main big ones? You might be happy to pay a certain amount to focus on the head, rather than finally spend much more to target the long tail (need of more people in-house or external agencies).
  • Internationalization. The fact that emerging markets represent a huge opportunity for growth and the second fact that our home markets are already saturated with Digital marketing, bring the company to review its strategy and sometimes even to modify offices locations.  Finding the right digital talents is also crucial as countries like China or Brazil will need local support.
  • GAFA, Google, Apple, Facebook and Amazon. Everything you will do in your digital professional life will be in competition with something these 4 companies do. Or at least you might need something from them. And to being able to run projects at this level you will need I.T. trust me.
  • Personalization. This might be one of the most important words in the Digita world today. Customers wish to browse websites proposing self-aware services and customized experiences. It should be like magic. Customers would find everything they need, the way they need. And they will be very happy to give their personal data for that. So imagine the technological back-office you need for that!

I could continue on and on with Social Media, SEO, Owned Content, Conversion rate optimization, mobile or even Advertising. But I think you got the point. Only companies that will generate a vertuos alliance between Business and I.T. will be ready for the future challenges.

Are you ready?

LA

 

Info sourced at wikipedia, techrepublic.com, Mashable, Forrester, econsultancy.com, Lemonde, quoted Brands websites.
All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Prada, Spring-Summer 2013 Real Fantasies by AMO.

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Reading Time: 3 minutes

Prada launched since 2010 a series of videos called Prada Real Fantasies. In support to the seasonal collections, Prada brings a deeper inspiration and artistic approach. This summer, discover the new video about the Spring and Summer collection by AMO.

Amo_Rotterdam

AMO is part of OMA, an international Architecture agency based in Rotterdam. While OMA focus on architecture, urbanism and culture, AMO crosses all borders from media, politics, sociology, renewable energy, technology, fashion, curating, publishing, and graphic design. It also contributes to OMA’s work by adding to architecture new facets. AMO is one of the most creative offices in Europe.

For this new episode, Prada explores and experiment a multitude of techniques in which its mix makes a very edgy design.

  • Hand-drawings
  • Painted Shapes
  • Photographs

From Simplicity to sentimentalism and even a sort of urban poetry. Everything is very sophisticated that goes well with the universe of Prada. The video collages, bring us into a sort of nostalgic feeling.

prada_real_fantasies
Prada-RealFantasies-ss13_amo
Prada-RealFantasies-ss13

 

The creative team for this movie are all used to work and collaborate with Prada. So they know well the Brand’s universe.

  • ART DIRECTION by AMO: Lok Jansen, Jeroen Koolhaas, Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli, Miguel Taborda, Lucia Venturini, Lucia Zamponi
  • ARTWORK: Lok Jansen, Jeroen Koolhaas
  • EDITING and VISUAL FX by APRIL: Matteo Frittelli
  • FILMING by APRIL: Matteo Frittelli, Gabrio Bellotti
  • PHOTOGRAPHY: Phil Meech, Agostino Osio
  • MUSIC by 3o – Andrea Cassano, Alessandro Sicardi, Fabio Visocchi

Lok Jansen knows well Prada as he did several Look Books for the Brand from 2007 and 2010. Jeroen Koolhaas is a trendy artist working also for Prada in some collaborations but also works for The New Yorker and with some artists like Notorious Big and Snoop Dog.

For the photography, the dynamic duo of Phil Meech and Agostino Osio is a very clever combination. The first one is a great fashion photographer based in the UK and the second is a very graphic photograph, used to work in collaborations for fashion, architecture, based in Milano.

Prada is today one of the most Global Luxury Brands in the world. They are very successful in Fashion, Leather accessories, Fragrances or Home. The Prada Foundation is also a great Sponsor of artistics projects and everything they do is either 100% perfect or they do not do it.

Prada is a Real fantasy!

LA

 

Info sourced at the Brand official website and youtube channel. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

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“Made In Swiss” Reaches The Air

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Reading Time: 3 minutes

The term ‘Made in Swiss’ carries a lot of meaning in terms of quality and class. Now the same Swiss quality is available in the domain of aviation as well.

swiss_quality_flying

This month, a new SWISS non-stop flight ‘Airbus A340-300’ has been launched that connects Singapore to Switzerland. The airline with its origin in Switzerland makes sure that it fulfills the legacy worthy of the name. The service from SWISS is expected to be top notch and same applies for its performance. The SWISS ‘First’ and ‘Business’ goes an extra mile to impress. Singapore to Switzerland is a long flight with time duration of nearly 13 hours. This means that the comfort level has to be exceptional for luxury travelers.

As far as the luxury perspective is concerned, the SWISS Business has flat beds which are two meters in length and have adjustable air cushions. Imagine the comfort of sleeping the moment the flight takes off from Singapore and waking up to a lovely breakfast in Zurich. This is Swiss finesse at its best.

Singapore_Presenter

The level of privacy provided in the Business class is also good which ensures higher quality of rest with least amount of disturbance. Luxury travelers would be able to focus on their work in flight as a result.

Another thing that is part of the luxury in the airline is the introduction of cloud based applications for the travelers. Cloud storage has emerged as a wonderful alternative where providers allow unlimited data storage in remote host facilities.

Opting for cloud storage means that bigger industries like aviation can be more efficient in different tasks. For example, the maintenance portion of the aviation industry can be made more productive because aviation tools like the ones available at Skygeek Tools, can make use of the external storage solution to communicate data from any remote location.

Keeping this goal in mind, the SWISS has a number of projects in pipeline to have fast bandwidth WiFi access in-flight. The tech avenue is also something that the airline is working on to match with its routine luxury standards.

in-flight-wifi

Those who’ve already traveled in the new SWISS airbus would know of its hospitality. Each passenger is treated in a privileged manner and greeted with a number of indigenous items like the famous Swiss chocolates. The local Swiss cuisine in itself is a value added experience from SWISS airline.

Swiss_service_food_onboard

Apart from the travel, when the passenger lands in Zurich, the arrivals itself is quite refreshing. The SWISS First and Business travelers can expect a wonderful time at the Arrival Lounge where they’ll be served fresh breakfast.

To cap it all, the timings of the flight is also ‘Swiss’ quality. The airline does its best to live up to the reputation of ensuring efficiency. This is done by providing adjusted flight schedules. The latest flight that goes from Singapore to Zurich departs at 23:10 and lands in Zurich at 6:10 the next day. The same applies for the Zurich to Singapore flight which has the same night flight benefit.

So when the traveler lands in Zurich, they can proceed to the destination of their choice or go visit a luxury exhibition!

Liz Becker

 

Info sourced by the author for luxuryactivist.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Discover the brand Louis Chevrolet watches by AJS Production.

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Reading Time: 7 minutes

Version française ici

You know the car brand Chevrolet (General Motors Company) without doubt. But have you ever heard of the watch brand Louis Chevrolet?

Louis Chevrolet (1878-1941)
Louis Chevrolet (1878-1941)

First years

Louis Chevrolet, at the origin of the name, was born in 1878 in La Chaux-de-Fonds (NE-Switzerland), his father used to work in the watch industry. He spent the first part of his childhood in the Swiss Jura in Bonfol then Beurnevésin.

In 1887, his family left Switzerland to join the Gold Coast in France and his father opened a small watchmaking workshop. Louis made ​​his apprenticeship at the Roblin, repair cycles renowned workshop. He won at the same time many bike races on the hilly coast of Beaune with its sponsor, the bike manufacturer brand “Gladiator”. These victories earned him to reach the capital Paris in 1899 to be semi pro racer on track. He works in parallel in the automotive industry and will catch “the virus of the combustion engine.” A year later, he emigrated to the United States to pursue a successful career as a racing driver.

The USA period

Louis Chevrolet en 1910 au volant d’une Buick
Louis Chevrolet, driving a Buick

He begins with Fiat, then quickly becomes official driver for the Buick team. In 1909, he became the second best conductor of the American championship and then teamed up with the owner of the team (and founder of GMC) in 1911 to set up a brand new car named “Chevrolet Motor Company of Michigan”, to take advantage of its notoriety. Following recurring disagreements course and strategy, he sold his shares in the company as well as the exclusive use of the name Chevrolet GMC in 1913.

Louis Chevrolet Frontenac Driver 1911
Louis Chevrolet Frontenac Driver 1911

He decided, then, to create the Frontenac brand dedicated exclusively to racing cars that win 2 times the Indianapolis 500 in the 20s. Here below a historical video about the accomplishments of the great pilot Louis Chevrolet during a 1917 race.

How the Watch Brand Louis Chevrolet was created?

In 1998, Josette  and André Saunier created AJS Production SA, a watch subcontractor specializing in the design of dials, watch cases. With a team of thirty people, the company mastered the laser engraving, 3D milling-cutter engraving, movement decoration, decal, silkscreen, lacquer dispensing, casing up, polishing, electroerosion, CNC machining…
AJS ‘s customers portfolio includes 250 watch brands.

AJS Production à Porrentruy
AJS Production in Porrentruy

In 2001, a customer asked AJS to work on a project about a commemorative watch for the 60th anniversary of the death of Louis Chevrolet. During the conversation, André Saunier realizes that the brand, until now not used, is for sale. He then took the opportunity to fulfill a dream, buys the Brand, then became the general manager in 2004.

What relationships continue today between the watchmaker Louis Chevrolet and GMC Chevrolet car brand?

Apparently, there is no official ties. Andre Saunier willingly confess that informal relationships exist and the General Motors brand, now, sees from a good eye the rise of the watch brand around the story of the founder. Thus we can find the Louis Chevrolet watches on some drivers’ wrist in the world car championship (WTCC) like the Swiss driver Alain Menu.

Alain Menu, pilote officiel WTCC Chevrolet
Alain Menu, official Chevrolet pilot WTCC

 What characteristics have the Louis Chevrolet watches?

Apart from the “racing” aspect, we find on the case back the 8, Louis Chevrolet’s lucky number (Lucky 8), the laurels of victory and his favorite motto “Never Give Up”. Not to mention that 95% of watch components (excluding movement) are manufactured in-house …

« Lucky 8 » avec anglage manuel
« Lucky 8 » with manual chamfer.

Discover the brand models on their dedicated site http://www.louis-chevrolet.ch

As the site of the watch subcontracting http://www.ajs-production.ch

 

« Never Give Up ! »

Louis Chevrolet logo
Louis Chevrolet logo

Sebastien Eich

 

Info sourced by the author on the brand’s website, on Wikipedia and on the driver Alain Menu. All content is protected by copyright law. All rights of reproduction are prohibited.

Vous connaissez sans doute la marque automobile Chevrolet (General Motors Company). Mais avez-vous déjà entendu parler de la marque horlogère Louis Chevrolet ?

Louis Chevrolet (1878-1941)
Louis Chevrolet (1878-1941)

Louis Chevrolet, à l’origine du nom, est né en 1878 à La Chaux-de-Fonds (NE), son papa travaillant dans l’industrie horlogère. Il passera la première partie de son enfance dans le Jura Suisse à Bonfol puis à Beurnevésin.

En 1887, sa famille quitte la Suisse pour rejoindre la Côte d’Or en France ou son papa ouvrira un petit atelier horloger. Louis effectue son apprentissage à l’atelier Roblin, réparateur de cycles réputé. Il remporte en même temps de nombreuses courses de vélo sur les côtes vallonnées de Beaune avec son sponsor, le fabricant de vélos de la marque “Gladiator”. Ces victoires lui valent de rejoindre la capitale Paris en 1899 pour y être coureur sur piste semi pro. Il travaille en parallèle dans l’industrie automobile et y attrape « le virus du moteur à explosion ». Un an plus tard, il émigre aux Etats Unis pour y faire une brillante carrière de pilote automobile.

Louis Chevrolet en 1910 au volant d’une Buick
Louis Chevrolet en 1910 au volant d’une Buick

Il débute sur Fiat, puis devient rapidement pilote officiel de l’écurie Buick. En 1909, il devient le second meilleur conducteur du championnat américain puis s’associe avec le copropriétaire de son écurie (et fondateur de GMC) en 1911 pour monter une nouvelle marque automobile nommée « Chevrolet Motor Company of Michigan », afin de profiter de sa notoriété. Suite à des désaccords récurrents de cap et de stratégie, il revend ses parts de l’entreprise ainsi que l’usage exclusif du nom Chevrolet à GMC en 1913.

Louis Chevrolet Frontenac Driver 1911
Louis Chevrolet Frontenac Driver 1911

Il décide alors de créer la marque Frontenac, dédiée exclusivement aux voitures de compétition qui gagneront 2 fois les 500 miles d’Indianapolis dans les années 20. Ci dessous une vidéo historique relatant les faits de l’incroyable pilote Louis Chevrolet durant une course en 1917.

Comment est née la marque horlogère Louis Chevrolet ?

En 1998, Josette et André Saunier fondent AJS Production SA, une entreprise sous-traitante horlogère spécialisée dans la conception fabrication de cadrans, boites horlogères. Forte d’une équipe d’une trentaine de personnes, elle maitrise la gravure laser, la gravure à la fraise 3D, la décoration des mouvements, la décalque, la sérigraphie, la dépose de laque, emboitage, polissage, électro érosion, décolletage CNC… AJS compte dans son portefeuille clients 250 marques horlogères.

AJS Production à Porrentruy
AJS Production à Porrentruy

En 2001, un client qui lui demande de travailler sur un projet de montre commémorative du 60ème anniversaire de la mort de Louis Chevrolet lui apprend au cours de la conversation que la marque, a cette période non utilisée, est à vendre. André Saunier saisit alors l’occasion de réaliser un rêve, la rachète, puis en prend la direction en 2004.

Quelles relations persistent aujourd’hui entre la marque horlogère Louis Chevrolet et la marque automobile Chevrolet de GMC ?

A priori il n’y a pas de liens officiels. André Saunier confesse volontiers que des relations informelles existent et que la marque du groupe General Motors voit maintenant d’un bon œil l’essor horloger autour de l’histoire du fondateur. Ainsi on a peut retrouver des montres Louis Chevrolet au poignet de certains pilotes du championnat du monde de voitures de tourisme (WTCC) comme le pilote Suisse Alain Menu.

Alain Menu, pilote officiel WTCC Chevrolet
Alain Menu, pilote officiel WTCC Chevrolet

Quels particularités possèdent les montres Louis Chevrolet ?

En dehors de l’aspect « racing » on retrouve sur les fonds de boite le 8, chiffre fétiche de Louis Chevrolet (Lucky 8), les lauriers de la victoire, ainsi que sa devise favorite « Never Give Up », ne renonce jamais. Sans oublier que 95% des composants de la montre (hors mouvement) sont fabriqués en interne…

« Lucky 8 » avec anglage manuel
« Lucky 8 » avec anglage manuel

Découvrez les modèles de la marque sur leur site dédié http://www.louis-chevrolet.ch/

Ainsi que le site de la sous traitance horlogère http://www.ajs-production.ch/

« Never Give Up ! »

Louis Chevrolet logo

Sebastien Eich

Infos sourcées par l’auteur sur le site de la marque, sur Wikipedia et le site du pilote Alain Menu. Tout contenu est protégé par la loi des copyrights. Tous droits de reproduction sont interdits.

Chanel Cult Colors. A story of Nail polish.

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Reading Time: 3 minutes

Chanel released its campaign for a special Nail Polish collection called “Les Couleurs cultes”, which means Cult Colors in french. They have a clever Digital strategy to support this launch by disseminating a video that breaks into the codes of the Brand. In deed, we are much more younger, dynamic and playful…. yet with style.
It is supposed to reach the tremendous online community interested in Nail polish. They are women, young and sensitive to style, trends…. and colour! Obvious. The choice of the song for this video is for us more… enigmatic. It is a song called “Bizarre Love Triangle” from a UK rock band called New Order. The song was created in September 1986, so we are talking here about vintage ! It also remind me the glory decade of Apple’s iPod advertising. So the aim is definitely to reach an online audience.

Chanel_Cult_Colors_DoubleC

The video features the Nail polish flacons playing around. We can also see women’s hands playing with the flacons. Both elements simulates either the C letter of Chanel or it spells the name Chanel by illustrating each letter: C – H – A – N – E – L.

chanel_cult_colors_banner

 

 

Chanel-C

Here, Chanel made an intelligent move. By picking up the most iconic colours of the brand, this collection becomes quite timeless and it is a perfect complement from the limited edition collections (seasonal).

Chanel_Double_C_Couleurs_Cultes

Chanel is successfully achieving a perfect campaign here. They are doing a better job on Nail Polish than in make up I would say. With much more differentiation here. We can see that every detail was executed in a perfect way. The hands, the nails and the jewellery used. These are probably the most glamorous hands we have ever seen in a advertising campaign for long. Beautiful. Here Chanel shows that you can be different, younger and keep your luxury and elegant territory. They will probably catch the attention of many customers with this campaign. Another interesting point on the campaign is that it was made for beauty bloggers. Nail polish is definitely one of the huge topics online. It gathers thousands and millions of readers every year and some of the websites/blogs are done by very expert-consumers people.

Back to the Collection it self, Here is how it is built.

Chanel_couleurs_cultes_LA

So 5 different colours in the iconic flacons:

  • 219 Black Satin
  • 08 Pirate
  • 18 Rouge Noir
  • 505 Particulière
  • 565 Beige

You can find more informations on the brand website: http://www.chanel.com .

Colour up your nails and be cult.
LA

 

Info sourced at Chanel email campaign, Chanel website, Glamour, tvcommercialsongs.com, wikipedia. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. 

Art exhibitions in Switzerland – 2013 top 7 exhibitions you do not wish to miss!

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Reading Time: 6 minutes

Switzerland is a very rich country… in art institutions and museums. It is one of the countries with the biggest density of museums per inhabitant. If we calculate only the official ones, we could count more than 1,000.

2013 will be again a very exciting year for art. Here is our selection of exhibitions not to miss in Switzerland for 2013.

Kunsthaus Zürich

Felix Vallotton – Precious Moments.

Le-Bain-au-soir-d-ete-1892-93-Felix-Vallotton
Le Bain au Soir d’été – 1892-93

From July 5th to September 15th 2013

This exhibition will be a unique dialog between pieces coming from a private collection and the Kunsthaus storage. More than 50 paintings will be displayed under a common theme “Precious moments”. Switzerland is one of the countries with the biggest number of Vallottons, unfortunately a big majority belongs to private collectors. So this is one opportunity in a thousand to see the talent of this amazing artist. Felix Edouard Vallotton was a Swiss painter, born in Lausanne in 1865 and he died in Paris- France in 1925. He was respected by his pairs because of his unique style. Very precise and truly. Sometimes he was criticized because of the severity of his technique. During the exhibition visitors will be able to see a choice of the painter work within the most strikingly unconventional ones.

Kunshaus Zürich
Heimplatz 1
CH–8001 Zurich
Phone: +41 (0)44 253 84 84
http://www.kunsthaus.ch

 

Fondation Beyeler – Basel

Max Ernst retrospective

Max_Ernst_Fondation_Beyeler
The Fireside Angel (The Triumph of Surrealism) – 1937

From May 26th to September 8th 2013

This is one of the most important retrospective on Max Ernst. More than 160 paintings, collages, drawings, sculptures and illustrated books. You will be able to see all the creation phases of the artist. Max Ernst was born in 1891 in Germany and since he died in 1976, this will be the first time in Switzerland we will be able to see so many key pieces of the artist portfolio. Ernst was one of the fathers of DADA and one of the proud defenders of Surrealism. Now, decades after his death, he is still one of the most influencial artists in the world, inspiring new artists every day.

FONDATION BEYELER
Baselstrasse 101
CH-4125 Riehen / Basel
Phone +41 (0)61 645 97 00
http://www.fondationbeyeler.ch 

 

Zentrum Paul Klee – Bern

Preciosities and Rarities by Paul Klee

Content_Preziosen-und-Raritaeten-von-Paul-Klee
Detail Paul Klee, Park near Lu. – 1938

From May 25th to August 11th 2013

The Paul Klee Center in Bern is presenting an amazing exhibition about Klee called “Preciosities and Rarities by Paul Klee”. What you need to know is that the Paul Klee Centre in Bern has the biggest collection of Paul Klee’s work. He wasa Swiss painter born in 1879 and died in 1940. In the museum stock you could count more than 4’000 works by the artist: 15p paintings, 3’000 monochrome drawings and 550 works in color. This summer, the museum is presenting a selection of “never-seen-before” works from the painter. The exhibition will reveal real treasures, covering all the key periods of the artist. The Swiss painter has an amazing style, from  Expressionism, Cubism, Futurism, Surrealism to Abstraction. So his work is really hard to classify.

Zentrum Paul Klee
Monument im Fruchtland 3
3006 Bern
Phone: + 41 (0)31 359 01 01
http://www.zpk.org

 

 Centre d’Art Contemporain Genève

Pablo Bronstein – Solo Show

PABLO_BRONSTEIN
Pablo Bronstein, Plaza Minuet – 2011

From September 13th to November 24th 2013

The Centre d’Art Contemporain Genève, will present for the first time in Switzerland the first retrospective of the artist in terms of architectural drawings. Pablo Bronstein was born in 1977 in Buenos Aires – Argentina and live in London. His artistic work was founded in Saint Martin School in London and since then he specialized on architectural drawings and gouaches. He also incorporates on his exhibitions live performances in which he invites the visitors to think about the space and the movement. His style is quite interesting as he set in ornate frames and depicting imagined buildings incorporating styles from 18th century France and the 1980s.

The Centre d’Art contemporain Genève
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10
1205 Genève
Phone: + 41 (0)22 329 18 42
http://www.centre.ch

 

Museo d’Arte Lugano

Myths and Mysteries – The Symbolism by Swiss Artists

Segantini-la-vanità
Giovanni Segantini, La vanita (La fonte del male) – 1897

From September 15th 2013 to January 12th 2014 

Curated by Valentina Anker, this exhibition covers a great journey into Symbolism between the 19th and the 20th century through the eyes of Swiss artists: Arnold Böcklin, Augusto and Giovanni Giacometti, Johann Heinrich Füssli, Ferdinand Hodler, Giovanni Segantini, Carlos Schwabe, Albert Trachsel, Félix Vallotton, Albert Welti but also Edoardo Berta, Adolfo Feragutti Visconti, Filippo Franzoni, Luigi Rossi as well as Jean-Joseph Carriès, William de Degouve Nuncques, Fernand Khnopff, Gustave Moreau, Gaetano Previati, Odilon Redon, Auguste Rodin, Franz von Stuck, Hans Thoma, Jan Toorop.
The themes of the exhibition: Dreams, the Subconscious, the hybrid, violence and death, the sublime and the disturbing nature or women both angelical and demoniac. Many themes, the preferred of the symbolist artists.

Museo d’Arte de Lugano
Via Riva Caccia 5
6900 Lugano
Phone: +41 (0)58 866 72 14
http://www.mdam.ch

 

Fotomuseum Winterthur

This Infinite world – Set 10 from the museum photo collection.

Alec-Soth-Melissa,-2005
Alec Soth, Melissa – 2005

From June 8th 2013 to February 9th 2014

For the past 10 years, the Fotomuseum de Winterthur dedicates an exhibition about the museum collections. During the years the photo collection of the institution has continuosly growing. Today we talk about more than 4’000 works by 400 photographers. Every year the museum calls this exhibition a “Set”. The first year it was “Set 1”. Next month we will be able to attend to Set 10. Paul Graham will curate this anniversary exhibition. It is an important symbol as the Fotomuseum opened in 1993 with an exhibition of Paul Graham. The British artist selected 21 photographers from Diane Arbus to Lewis Baltz and Luigi Ghirri. The exhibition will be accompanied by the collection brochure Set 10, but also an additional anniversary compilation of all sets. Something not to miss.

Fotomuseum Winterthur
Grüzenstrasse 44 + 45
CH-8400 Winterthur
Phone +41 (0)52 234 10 60
http://www.fotomuseum.ch

 

Fondation de l’Hermitage – Lausanne

MIRÓ, Poetry and Light

Joan_Miro

From June 28th to October 27th 2013

This is definitely a big event in Switzerland. More than 80 works by Joan Miró will be exhibited (1893 – 1983). All works come from Pilar i Joan Miro Foundation in Palma de Majorca. For more information about this outstanding exhibition, see our dedicated article here: http://luxuryactivist.com/art/miro-poetry-and-light-new-exhibition

Fondation de l’Hermitage 
2, route du Signal
1000 Lausanne 8
Phone: +41 (0)21 312 50 13
http://www.fondation-hermitage.ch

So now you do not have any excuse to not place Art and Culture on your top priorities this year. If you think about others, please let us a comment here below, so that we share interesting information about art in Switzerland. Thanks!
LA

 

Info sourced on the official museum websites. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Fragrances: do not wear them… eat them!

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Reading Time: 7 minutes

Did you know that some fragrances can be eaten? Well, this is not so new as already in the Ancient Egypt, some fragranced preparations could be used externally (on skin and hair) but also drunk (like a plant and spicy infusion). In Europe, in the 18th century and even before, the Vinaigre de Toilette, was also used in both ways. In a more contenporary context the Fragrance industry has been using Diéthylphtalate  in order to denaturate the alcohol so that people would not drink it.

juliette-has-a-gun-not-a-perfume

But since the 90’s 2 keywords were used and that generated new Fragrance trends: Well-being and Food-supplements. Both together created a new generation of food but also a new generation of fragrances… From the moisturizing anti-radicals yoghourt towards the Fragrance and the Deodorant you eat, a full range of new products started being launched. We call it alicaments, or alismetics, they are basic food, like water, milk or some cakes enriched with cosmetic properties. Not so long ago, we could spot out in some trendy shops in Europe the beverages Beauty and Go! Basically a pure water enriched with silicons. This would make your skin beautiful.

Beauty_to_go colette
photo: http://www.thedieline.com

But these trends have been developing for a while in Europe, what is more interesting, or let’s say more radical, would come from Asia. Fragrances that you eat and that would exhale from your skin or fragrance your time at the toilets!

As we know, nothing more unpleasant than emanate bad scents from your body, either perspiration or…. worse. Some companies are integrating in their R&D a new generation of fragrances that one would eat. The effect would be that the fragrance would exhale from your skin pores.

Perfume Candy – Skin Deodorant

Perfume_Candy

This is Perfume Candy. Basically you eat these candies and after a couple of hours, your skin start smelling Rose. According to the brand, Ecodeum, the effect can last for 6 hours. You even have a “sugar-free” version. One little bag containing between 2 to 4 candies, contain around 12mg of Geraniol, one of the main elements found in Rose essential oil. So the company says that they imported from Bulgaria, an important producer of Rose for perfumery.

 

Pillbox Japan – Find every pill you want.

Kaoru_pillbox_japan
In Japan, the king of pills is http://www.pillboxjapan.com. You can basically find any pill you need. And they sell the fragrance pills from Kaöru, also based on Geraniol and Rose Oil.

Lucy Mcrae and her Swallowable Fragrance pill

Australian artist Lucy Mcrae, has been exploring the human body and how to modify its appearance. One of her several projects was about the swallowable Fragrance pill. According to the artist: “Swallowable Parfum is a cosmetic capsule that enables human skin to emit a genetically unique scent about who we are and how we perform our identities. Once absorbed the skin becomes a platform, an atomizer; A biologically enhanced second skin synthesized directly from the natural processes of the body, redefining the role of skin“.

swallowable-parfum-lucy-mcrae_1

This is how Lucy Mcrae explains how it works. She teams up with acclaimed synthetic biologist Sheref Mansy and are currently in research phase to develop a capsule that consists of synthesized fragrant lipid molecules that mimic the structure of normal fat molecules naturally found in the body. The human body has enzymes that metabolize fat in a series of steps that free lipids and lipid-like molecules from their scaffolds. Swallowable Parfum takes advantage of these natural enzymes found in our bodies to release fragrant molecules from larger structures. Subsequently, the liberated fragrant molecules are excreted through the skin’s surface during perspiration.

Geraniol and why all these products have it.

One good question would be, why all these products contain Geraniol and Rose oil, rather than lavender, or cedar wood or something else than rose? Well, this is related to the natural properties of Rose oil and specifically Geraniol. In deed the natural metabolism process in the body tend to use lipids in a certain way as described by Sheref Mansy here above. Geraniol is an alcohol but still associated with the lipid family, Isoprene Units in Isoprenoids, like Farnesol or Squalene. So searchers identified the properties of Geraniol to be exhaled by the skin after a certain quantity ingested via the lipid digestion and elimination process. Or, Geraniol is today part of the black list of many Fragrance organizations. Geraniol as well as other Fragrance ingredients have been limited and sometimes banned by law because of the effects of it. As it penetrates quite well on the skin, it provides, under certain circumstances allergy problems. So according to IFRA, Geraniol should always be identify on the INCI formulas.

What we know about different studies ran by the BDIH, the powerful German organization, , is that Geraniol can produce allergies to certain people mainly in 2 cases:

  1. If It is present alone as a single compound. Indeed studies showed that Geraniol integrated naturally in a Rose oil produces less allergies probabilities than used alone. That’s why products from Dr. Hauschka represent a few percentage of the allergy cases because all ingredients are integrated fully inside the essential oils used.
  2. If the concentration of Geraniol is higher or equal to 5%. Normal quantities accepted are between 0.1% to 0.5%.

In the case of the Perfume Candy, there are 12mg of Geraniol for 2.6 ounces = 73gr. So it represents around 0.16% of the total product. Legally speaking it is ok but people who developed allergies about Geraniol, should be careful with it as the Geraniol, although under the limits, is present as single component. If you eat this kind o product you should also respect the quantities described by the manufacturer as people would tend to eat a lot of candies in order to smell stronger.

 

Does it really works?

george-pretiDr. George Preti is an analytical organic chemist currently working at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. For more than four decades, his research has focused upon the nature, origin and functional significance of human odors. Dr. Preti’s laboratory has identified characteristic underarm odorants and he collaborates with companies like Symrise or Procter&Gamble. According to him, things are not so simple. Indeed, the body smell is not the same between your armpit, your mouth, your hair or your feet. This is due to the different conditions of temperature and humidity that influences the work of your skin bacteria to digest your perspiration. People realizes that if you eat a lot of garlic or spices, your skin changes its scent. Preti says that no one never really proved it with scientific tests. In any case, you are suppose to eat quite big quantities and for longtime.

What happens if you eat big quantities of Geraniol during a long period? We do not know for sure, but we say that the more a person is exposed to a possible allergen, the probability to get an allergy increases. Not everybody is allergic to strawberries or carrots but if you eat quite a big quantity of those every single day, you increases the allergy possibility. So you should be careful.

 

What to do then?

Our grand mothers would probably say: “Stop being so lazy and get a life!”. And they would be right! These pills or candies are what we call “Let’s hope for a lazy miracle to arrive”. Here are some real advices to keep a good body scent.

  • Wash yourself regularly, once a day minimum and more depending where you live and what you do during the day
  • Dry your skin properly, towel off, so that bacteria responsible for body odor will not develop.
  • Keep a good healthy lifestyle: Do not smoke, do not drink too much and prefer healthy food rather than too much of fat or heavy foods.
  • Do sports or at least keep an active life.
  • And yes, use a “normal” deodorant. There are many brands proposing good 24h efficient deodorants or you can use the alternative of the Alum stone. Very efficient, you would be surprised.

healthy-life

Roses are red, sky is blue, and you will not fall in every marketing trap.
LA

 

Info sourced Delphine Minard, Product Manager at Victorinox Fragrances for Luxuryactivist.com. Sources also from abcnews.com, cosmopolitan, Dailymail.co.uk, Men’s Health UK, Perfumecandy.com, pillboxjapan.com, wikipedia, LeMonde.fr, Theguardian.co.uk. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement – A technical revolution Haute-Horlogerie style.

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Reading Time: 11 minutes

Version française ici

During Baselworld 2013, Luxury Activist team got the privilege to have the new collections presented by Stefano Macaluso, Product Development Director at Girard-Perregaux.

Stefano Macaluso – Directeur Développement Produits
Stefano Macaluso – Product Development Director

Much of the interview was devoted to a fascinating piece called Constant Escapement which has the advantage of surprise by a visible revolutionary escapement mechanism, and enhanced dial side. With this launch, the brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds continues the momentum of innovation and high technology characterizes the past 222 years.

Girard-Perregaux Echappement Constant
Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement

First of all, and we can not do otherwise, some basic watchmaking notions. The energy animating a watch can be produced in two ways. Either by manual manipulation of the crown, which comes to a tension spring in the barrel or by the rotor when the movement is said self-winding (or automatic). This energy must be dissipated slowly to ensure the watch the biggest reserve. If it was not regulated, the spring would relax a few tenths of a second and stop the watch .

Un mouvement à double barillet
Double barrel caliber

The escapement is the heart of the watch, the most important part manipulated giving the movement its accuracy, regularity and helps regulate energy dissipation by delivering what is needed to chain wheels and pinions. There are many types of traditional escapements but they can not completely control the variation of the strength of the spiral period reserve. This has the consequence that the magnitude and precision of the watch is not the same when the watch is “fully wound” or with a little winding.

L’Echappement Constant Girard-Perregaux, en forme de papillon
The Constant Escapement by Girard-Perregaux, butterfly-shaped

By the constant escapement mechanism presented here by Girard Perregaux, the magnitude and precision of the watch remain the same throughout the reserve. It took 10 years of reflection and five years of development in the R & D team of Stephane Oes / Nicolas Dehon (Ex Patek Philippe) on this concept in a new dedicated movement. This major invention is characterized by a radically different architecture of an anchor escapement and for some people, it evokes a butterfly spreading its silicon iridescent wings.

Nicolas Déhon, ex. Manager R&D source: watch-wiki.org
Nicolas Déhon, ex. Manager R&D source: watch-wiki.org

From a technical point of view, friction has been reduced considerably. All interactions between the elements was really optimized and this is a notable achievement. The idea, although old, could only become a reality thanks to the technical developments in the field of nanotechnology which opens up new opportunities to watch micromachining.

Lame de Silicium
Silicon blade

20 microns silicon springs were produced through a partnership with CSEM, Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology. The DRIE technology (Deep Reactive Ion Etching) used for the production of the latter allows for extremely complex forms with extraordinary precision. Electroforming techniques, with subsequent addition of microlayer was also used. Silicon, light, non-magnetic, has a very high elasticity, has excellent friction and requires no lubrication. (no effect of wear).

[yframe url=’http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Co1w-w7H6hE&feature=share&list=UUROdG_kJl4n1iB5GRiF9H1g’]

How he got the bright idea?

All simply in the course of a train journey … Nicolas Dehon who went to Biel played endlessly with his ticket compressing it between two fingers, and then pressing the resulting curve with its index, would bend into the other direction. He suddenly said that this principle there would be a possibility of something more constant than traditional anchor escapement. The train ticket as the silicon plate has 2 stable states and between these two states, it brings energy to the system and redistribute it. The tiny leaf acts as an energy micro-battery by elastic deformation. By moving from a first state to a second, the  energy released maintains the amplitude of the oscillation of the couple balance-spring at a constant level. In other words, the amplitude is the same in all positions. This significant breakthrough in terms of timekeeping will probably date in the history of watchmaking and tidy again Girard Perrregaux in the sphere of Haute Horlogerie.

[yframe url=’http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igHLWsUFxQg&feature=share&list=UUROdG_kJl4n1iB5GRiF9H1g’]

To accommodate this exceptional movement, we needed a “cover” up to the mechanics, which emphasizes it, without fading. A search for harmony between aesthetics and technology was the creative philosophy of this model line.

Vue du fond de boite de la GP 93500-53-131-BA6C
Backside view case of GP 93500-53-131-BA6C

The movement is here placed in a round curved case of 48 mm white gold. The sapphire crystal is wide and opened to admire in another angle of the remarkable three-dimensional construction of this exceptional movement.

Vue coté cadran de la GP 93500-53-131-BA6C
Front side GP 93500-53-131-BA6C

To provide maximum visibility to the escapement itself, the hours and minutes occupy an eccentric sub-dial at noon. It is framed by two energy tanks that are double barrels. Logically linear, the power reserve appears at 9 o’clock.
The entire lower part of the watch is reserved for the Constant Escapement, beating at a frequency of 3 Hz or 21,600 vibrations per hour. Under the anti-reflective coating sapphire crystal are also visible the three iconic Brand bridges playing their structural role in a new layout.

Technical specifications

  • Polished white gold case with antireflective sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 48.00 mm
  • Bezel: Circular satin, satin finish inside
  • Glass: anti-reflective domed sapphire
  • Crown: white gold with engraved GP logo
  • Dial: silver grained with applied rhodium
  • Hands: Dauphine-type
  • Back: sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws, all inscriptions by hand
  • Water resistant to 30 meters
  • Girard-Perregaux movement MVT-009100-0007
  • Mechanical with manual winding
  • Calibre: 17 ½” ‘
  • Frequency: 21,600 Vib / h – (3 Hz)
  • Power reserve: about one week
  • Jewels: 28
  • Number of components: 271
  • Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, linear power reserve
  • Black Alligator strap
  • Folding Clasp

This movement is the first of a family that will be built in the future at Girard Perregaux. Among the improvements, a reduction in size would be interesting to integrate watches diameter of less than 48mm.
You can discover the collections and the history of the manufacture here:
http://www.girard-perregaux.com
We would like to thanks Stefano Macaluso  for his hospitality and the time he kindly gave us.

Sebastien Eich

Info sourced by the author at Baselworld private session for luxuryactivist.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

GP-Haute-Horlogerie-Echappement-Constant

Girard-Perregaux Echappement Constant – Une révolution technique version Haute Horlogerie

A l’occasion du salon de Bale 2013, l’équipe de Luxury Activist a eu la chance de se voir présenter les dernières nouveautés par Stefano Macaluso, Directeur Développement Produits de Girard-Perregaux.

Stefano Macaluso – Directeur Développement Produits
Stefano Macaluso – Directeur Développement Produits

Une grande partie de l’entretien a été dédiée à une pièce fascinante dénommée Echappement Constant qui a le mérite de surprendre par un mécanisme d’échappement révolutionnaire, visible et mis en valeur coté cadran. A travers ce lancement, la marque de  La Chaux-de-Fonds perpétue la dynamique d’innovation et de haute technologie qui la caractérise depuis maintenant 222 ans.

Girard-Perregaux Echappement Constant
Girard-Perregaux Echappement Constant

Tout d’abord, et nous ne pouvons pas faire autrement, il convient de reprendre quelques bases de l’horlogerie. L’énergie animant une montre peut être produite de 2 manières. Soit par remontage manuel de la couronne, qui vient mettre en tension un ressort situé dans le barillet, soit par la masse oscillante lorsque le mouvement est dit automatique. Cette même énergie doit se dissiper lentement de manière à assurer à la montre la réserve de marche la plus importante. Si elle n’était pas régulée, le ressort se détendrait en quelques dixièmes de secondes et la montre s’arrêterait…

Un mouvement à double barillet
Un mouvement à double barillet

L’échappement est le cœur de la montre, la partie réglante la plus importante qui confère au mouvement sa précision, sa régularité et permet de réguler la dissipation de l’énergie en délivrant ce qui est nécessaire à la chaine de roues et pignons. Il existe de nombreux types d’échappements traditionnels mais qui ne peuvent réguler totalement la variation de force du spiral sur la période de réserve de marche. Ceci à pour conséquence que l’amplitude et la précision de la montre n’est pas la même lorsque la montre est « remontée à fond » ou qu’elle n’est presque plus remontée.

L’Echappement Constant Girard-Perregaux, en forme de papillon
L’Echappement Constant Girard-Perregaux, en forme de papillon

Par le mécanisme d’échappement constant présenté ici par Girard Perregaux, l’amplitude et la précision de la montre restent identiques pendant toute la durée de réserve de marche. Il aura fallu 10 ans de développement et cinq ans de mise au point à l’équipe de R&D Stéphane Oes / Nicolas Déhon (Ex Patek Philippe) pour concrétiser ce concept dans un nouveau mouvement dédicacé. Cette invention majeure se caractérise par une architecture radicalement différente d’un échappement à ancre et qui évoquerait pour certains un papillon déployant ses ailes de silicium irisé…

Nicolas Déhon, ex. Manager R&D source: watch-wiki.org
Nicolas Déhon, ex. Manager R&D source: watch-wiki.org

D’un point de vue technique, les frottements ont été considérablement réduits. L’ensemble des interactions entre les éléments a été réellement optimisé et il s’agit là d’une prouesse notable. L’idée, bien qu’ancienne, n’a pu devenir réalité que grâce aux évolutions techniques dans le domaine des nanotechnologies ouvrant de nouvelles possibilités à la microtechnique horlogère.

Lame de Silicium
Lame de Silicium

Le ressort de silicium de 20 microns a été produit grâce à un partenariat avec le CSEM, Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique. La technologie DRIE (Deep Reactive Ion Etching) utilisée pour la production de ce dernier permet de réaliser des formes extrêmement complexes avec une précision extraordinaire. Des techniques d’électroformage, avec adjonction successive de microcouches a été également utilisée. Le silicium, léger, antimagnétique, possède une élasticité très élevée, présente un excellent coefficient de friction et ne requiert aucune lubrification. (pas d’effet d’usure)

[yframe url=’http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Co1w-w7H6hE&feature=share&list=UUROdG_kJl4n1iB5GRiF9H1g’]

Comment lui est venue cette idée de génie ?

Tous simplement à l’occasion d’un voyage en train… Nicolas Déhon qui se rendait à Bienne, jouait sans arrêt avec son ticket en le comprimant entre 2 doigts, puis, en appuyant sur la courbe obtenue avec son index, le recourbait dans l’autre sens. Il se dit soudain que sur ce principe il y aurait une possibilité de faire quelque chose de plus constant qu’un échappement à ancre traditionnel. Le ticket de train tout comme la lame de silicium a 2 états stables ; entre ces 2 états, on apporte de l’énergie au système et il le redistribue. La minuscule lame joue ici le rôle de micro-accumulateur d’énergie par déformation élastique. En passant d’un premier état à un second, la libération d’énergie entretient les amplitudes de l’oscillation du couple balancier-spiral à un niveau constant. En d’autres termes, l’oscillation est toujours la même, dans toutes les positions. Cette percée significative en termes de chronométrie fera sans doute date dans l’histoire horlogère et range à nouveau Girard Perrregaux dans la sphère de la Haute Horlogerie.

[yframe url=’http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igHLWsUFxQg&feature=share&list=UUROdG_kJl4n1iB5GRiF9H1g’]

Pour accueillir ce mouvement d’exception, il fallait un habillage à la hauteur de la mécanique, qui le mette en valeur, sans s’effacer. Une recherche d’harmonie entre esthétique et technologie a été la ligne directrice de la création de ce modèle.

Vue du fond de boite de la GP 93500-53-131-BA6C
Vue du fond de boite de la GP 93500-53-131-BA6C

Le mouvement prend ici place dans un boîtier rond de 48 mm en or blanc à la carrure galbée. Le fond saphir est largement ouvert permettant d’admirer sous un autre angle la remarquable construction tridimensionnelle de ce mouvement d’exception.

Vue coté cadran de la GP 93500-53-131-BA6C
Vue coté cadran de la GP 93500-53-131-BA6C

Pour offrir le maximum de visibilité à l’échappement lui-même, les heures et les minutes occupent un sous-cadran excentré à midi. Celui-ci est encadré des deux réservoirs d’énergie que constituent les doubles barillets. Logiquement linéaire, la réserve de marche apparaît à 9 h.

Toute la partie inférieure de la montre est réservée à l’Echappement Constant, battant à la fréquence de 3 Hz ou 21’600 alternances par heure. Sous la glace saphir traitée antireflet sont également visibles les trois ponts emblématiques de la Marque qui jouent leur rôle structurel dans une disposition inédite.

Spécifications techniques

  • Boîtier en or blanc poli avec glace saphir antireflet
  • Diamètre : 48.00 mm
  • Lunette : satinée circulaire, intérieur satiné
  • Glace : saphir antireflet bombée
  • Couronne : or blanc avec logo GP gravé
  • Cadran : argenté grené avec appliques rhodiées
  • Aiguilles : de type dauphine
  • Fond : glace saphir, fermé par 6 vis, toutes inscriptions gravées à la main
  • Etanchéité : 30 mètres
  • Mouvement Girard-Perregaux MVT-009100-0007
  • Mécanique à remontage manuel
  • Calibre : 17½ ’’’
  • Fréquence : 21’600 Alt/h – (3 Hz)
  • Réserve de marche : une semaine environ
  • Empierrage : 28
  • Nombre de composants : 271
  • Fonctions : heure, minute, seconde centrale, réserve de marche linéaire
  • Bracelet en alligator noir
  • Boucle déployante

Ce mouvement est le premier d’une famille qui se construira à l’avenir chez Girard Perregaux. Parmi les améliorations possibles, une réduction de la taille serait souhaitable pour l’intégrer dans des montres de diamètre inférieur à 48mm.

Vous pouvez découvrir l’ensemble des collections et de l’histoire de la manufacture sur http://www.girard-perregaux.com

Nous remercions pour notre part Stefano pour son accueil et le temps qu’il a bien voulu nous accorder.

Sebastien Eich

Infos sourcées par l’auteur durant sessions privés à Baselworld pour Luxuryactivist.com. Tout contenu est protégé par la loi des copyrights. Tous droits de reproduction sont interdits. 

will.i.am, supra-active and genius.

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Reading Time: 8 minutes

Some people are busy, others are workoholics and a few transform in gold everything they touch. This article is dedicated to the multiple-facetted artist will.i.am. He is DJ, singer, producer,creation director, actor and composer.. frankly he never sleeps.

wiill.I.am portrait
photo: http://startertv.fr

His early years

Of his real name William James Adams Jr. , he was born on March 15th 1975 in Los Angeles, city of stars.What is amazing with talented people is that from a young age, you could imagine that he would become someone. As a child he used to entertain his family and friends by performing small shows, singing, dancing… At that time will.i.am used to live in a hard area. Lots of friends got killed, arrested or… both. He definetely wanted something more for his life.

Tribal Nation, where everything started

In 1989, will.i.am was only 14 years old and joined the break dance group TRIBAL NATION. He meets for the first time Apl, his friend since then. It was at this time that will.i.am discovered the music industry, the music scene in Los Angeles and also what would take to pursuit his dream. With apl, they shared the same passion for hip-hop and knew they wanted to pursuit a bigger dream in the music industry. Quite fast, they create the group A.T.B.A.N Klann, an acronym for “A Tribe Beyond a Nation.

Atban Klann, first album.

In 1992 they get they opportunity to shine thanks to the help of Eazy-E from Ruthless Records. They launch a first album without a big success. Ruthless records does not invest on the group as there was a commercial doubt on the future of it. After the death of Easy-E in 1995, will.i.am and apl decide to quit Ruthless Records and move on. They meet Taboo, who becomes the new member of the group. Group by the way change name, to be called … The Black Eyed Peas.

Black Eyed Peas and the success finally arrives!

Black_Eyed_Peas_the_start

New name, new Record label and new energy. They start making a name in the west coast scene. They also had a female vocalist, Kim Hill.

Things starts going up for the group and in 2000, the album Elephunk is released. Collaborations with Wyclef Jean, Mos Def, De La Soul, Jurassic 5’s Chali 2na, and Macy Gray shows how the group is getting into the right way. It is also the arrival of Fergie, in replacement of Kim Hill who left the group. And the Black Eyed Peas are formed. Since then will.i.am and the Black Eyed Peas became a worldwide stars with mega successes like Hey Mama, Don’t Phunk with my heart, Let’s get it started, I got a feeling and Dirty beat. will.i.am became also the producer of the group and with apl they right the songs and music despite some collaborations with people like David Guetta. In total, 5 albums in 13 years.

The Solo Artist

Up to now he launched 3 solo albums and a new one is launched this year, which make is a total of 4.

  • Lost Change in 2001
  • Must B 21 2003
  • Songs About Girls in 2007
  • #willpower in 2013

will-i-am-willpower-new-album

What we can say here is that all these albums were personal explorations with sounds will.i.am used to develop either in studio or during his dj sets. Up to now he was not really very successful with his personal albums but it gave him a lot of experience and also a name. The new album, called #willpower contains several collaborations.  Britney Spears, Justin Bieber, Chris Brown,Skylar Grey, Juicy J, Miley Cyrus, Nicole Scherzinger, Eva Simons, 2NE1, Baby Kaely, apl.de.ap and Dante Santiago. Apparently this new album got a much better start than the previous ones.

will.i.am and Britney bitch
photo: http://radiostarcom.com

 

The Dj sets

will-i-am DJ setting
photo: http://media.melty.fr

All year long, will.i.am continues doing Dj sets in many places. According to him, this is mainly when he tries new sounds. He explained once that this is how Dirty Beat for example was created. One evening he was doing the DJ in a club in Ibiza. Fergie was in the place and he knew she loved the original song from Dirty Dancing. She did a surprise for her by playing the song in the club (He actually sang himself). It was not a long way until he got “the” sound and Dirty beat was created.

 

The music Producer

will.i.am music producer
photo: http://media.salon.com

When you know how to do music, especially worldwide blockbusters, you can also offer your services to others. And will.i.am is one of those music artists who also act behind the scenes to many others. And when I say “many” I mean “many”.

will.i.am and David Guetta
photo: http://i1.cdnds.net

Check here the non-exhaustive list of artists with whom will.i.am collaborated and collaborate with:

  • Michael Jackson (Thriller 25th Anniversary album + new album never launched)
  • Justin Bieber
  • Easy-E (until his death in 1995)
  • Britney Spears
  • David Guetta
  • U2
  • Rihanna
  • Usher
  • Justin Timberlake
  • Earth Wind and Fire
  • Nicki Minaj
  • Cheryl Cole
  • 2NE1
  • SMAP
  • The Game
  • Nas
  • Bone Thugs-n-Harmony
  • Daddy Yankee
  • Wolfgang Gartner
  • Juanes
  • (…)

He also produces the Black Eyed Peas since a couple of years now of course as he gathered so many experiences.

black-eyed-peas
photo: http://3.bp.blogspot.com

Probably any music artist in the top 10 best artists in the world were at one point produced by will.i.am. Frankly?… impressed!

 

The Actor

John_Wraith_XMen_Will.i.am

As probably the music industry was not enough, will.i.am was also invited several times to contribute to many movies in different ways. His major role was clearly the character of John Wraith on the X-Men Origins: Wolverine (images above). He played the role of a mutant-stylish-black-cowboy with the ability of teleportation. Just that. When we see all the different activities he does, I start to believe that he has actually teleportation powers.

He also acted as the voice of the character Moto Moto in Madagascar: Escape 2 Africa and the voice of Pedro, a red-crested Cardinal in Rio.

will.i.am also played in different TV series like Joan of Arcadia, Cane, The cleveland Show, Top Gear, The X factor and lately The Voice UK

will.i.am the Voice UK
photo: http://jasonburton80.files.wordpress.com

 

The Creative Director and Business man

will.i.am-Intel
photo: http://technology-corner.com

When you have the opportunity to meet someone so creative, you definitely wish to collaborate with him, especially if you are a company. In January 2011, Intel Corp. named will.i.am as Director of creative innovation, with input in developing smartphones, tablets and laptops. One year later, in January 2012, he appeared on the BBC TV series Top Gear, as the Star in a Reasonably Priced Car, where he revealed he will be starting his own car company called IAMAUTO. His goal with this car company is to create jobs in the guettos where he came from. He explains that he is so passionate about technology and geek stuff that he is investing all his money on this project to see how they can create something different, something new and sustainable.

IAMAUTO_will.i.am
photo: http://news.autoplus.fr

will.i.am also created a brand called IAM+. This brand is commercializing iPhone accessories that will improve the photo capabilities of your iPhone. So from a 8 million pixels camera on your iPhone5, you get a 14 million pixels.
foto.sosho
You can check this amazing clever project on the official website: http://www.i.am

 

The humanist

will+Peapod+Adobe+Youth+Voices+Academy
photo: http://www3.pictures.zimbio.com

will.i.am is also invested in many causes. Here above is one of the different projects, this one with the other members of the Black Eyed Peas, is about creating schools across USA in partnership with Adobe. Children from all social fields can attend to creative multimedia classes and shape a better future.  Here below all causes will.i.am support. Some of them like the i.am angel foundation or i.am home fund were created by the artist himself.

As you can see, some people take the best out of life and for them every second counts. Here, Mr will.i.am has an amazing career and professional life. He is one of the most inspiring creator today and probably the most gifted one of his generation. Now, you know.

LA

 

Info sourced at startertv.fr, radiostarcom.com, wikipedia, www3.pictures.zimbio.com, www.i.am, news.autoplus.fr, technology-corner.com, jasonburton80.files.wordpress.com, 3.bp.blogspot.com, i1.cdnds.net, media.salon.com, media.melty.fr, radiostarcom.com, The black Eyed Peas official website… and more! 

Ango, hypnotic pop in which less is more.

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If you have enough of music mainstream and you want to listen to real deep talent, you need to discover Ango, a true talented vocalist and musician. His real name is Andrew Gordon Macpherson and he is Canadian from Montreal.

Ango_Andrew Gordon Macpherson

How to define his music? Andrew Macpherson likes minimalism. Less is more. His music is a clever blend between a clean Pop, with Light-House and Transe undertones. Could we say electro-Pop. Not so sure as Ango has a sound of its own. It explores the deepest part of the artist mind. From neo-nostalgia towards a more sharp sound, it uses the best from each style of music. His voice is purely hypnotic, very Thom Yorke style but less tortured. You can for the time of a song, forget your surroundings and open the field of imagination.

Ango_live Ango_live

You need to be a fine hear to accomplish this result. Check here the single True Blue, produced by Jacques Greene (House and Garage DJ from Montreal).

A first album called Another City Now was produced and launched in 2011 under the label LuckyMe, a specialized UK label in new electronic hip hop, pop, rock and underground dance music. We could feel already the specific hypnotic voice of Macpherson with a new generation of sound.
ango-another-city-now
Ango Another City now album

Ango performed a couple of times for the BBC and you can find some videos and sounds from these performances.
BBC_Ango

A year later, Ango come up with a new mixtape, Serpentine. Serpentine is definitely the album that settles the identity of Ango. Not only the vocal signature but clearly the universe in which Macpherson will drive you in.

Ango Serpentine
10 tracks produced with a fine team. Jacques Greene, Kuedo, Numan, Mike Din and Prison Garde & Earnes. Each track is an exploration of sounds. From funky soul to electro-pop. The last track, called Get out of my life has even a sample of Norma’s Casta Diva, the Bellini Opera. In order to make the most of people to listen to it, Ango allow the free legal download of the entire album from his website. Something you would never see from a major label. You can download the album here: http://www.ango.ca 

You can also follow Ango on social media:
https://www.facebook.com/AngoMusic 

Ango chases the rain away and put you in a good mood. Just tune on and relax. 

LA

 

25.05.2013 – Info sourced by Cédric Dauch for Luxuryactivist.com, Inrocks, wikipedia, dummymag, http://youshouldknowango.tumblr.com.