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Prince Charles opens London menswear week

Prince Charles

'Clothes have to combine style with sustainability,' writes Prince Charles in GQ magazine. Photograph: Getty Images

He may not be monarch for a while yet, but for the next four days he is undisputed king of the front row. With the first ever week of men's catwalk shows in London falling hot on the heels of the jubilee, Prince Charles is the man charged with leading the British menswear industry into battle with the titans of France and Italy.

Tonight Prince Charles will host several hundred representatives from the fashion industry at a reception at St James's Palace, in celebration of the menswear shows that begin tomorrow.

Whether the prince will adopt Anna Wintour's trademark sunglasses for the duration is not known; what is certain is that the lure of a gold-embossed palace invitation is a significant coup for the British Fashion Council as they strive to fill the London front rows with the world's most powerful buyers and editors.

Despite stiff competition from parties hosted by Tinie Tempah (featuring crazy golf on the roof of Selfridges) and retailer Mr Porter (with DJ Alexa Chung), the St James's Palace invite the week's hot ticket. Menswear by Margaret Howell and Claire Malcolm of Hardy Amies on display during the reception, alongside designs by Christopher Raeburn, the winner of the emerging talent in menswear award at the most recent British Fashion Awards.

But the prominence of Prince Charles signifies more than simply a wish to capitalise on jubilee fever. The rich Savile Row tradition of British tailoring and a drive to promote quality British craftsmanship are a key part of the message of this fashion week. Those steering the event are keen to move the image of British designer menswear on from the creative-but-crazy label and into more commercial territory.

This is a shift which has been successfully made in womenswear, where the London collections are now a slick and respected element of the global industry rather than the eccentric afterthought they once were.

Writing in Vogue two years ago, Prince Charles demurred from being labelled "fashionable", but acknowledged that "there have been those generous enough to call me 'well dressed'". The Prince is a longtime customer of the shirtmakers Turnbull & Asser, whose shirts are made in a small factory in Gloucestershire, and the distinguished Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard.

"Clothes have to combine style with sustainability," writes the prince in the current issue of GQ magazine, "and I find British-made tailoring more than meets that challenge – much to the amusement of my staff, who are sometimes surprised to find that what I am wearing turns out to be as old as or even older than they are".

This week's showcase for British designer menswear hopes to capitalise on new findings which show that while women are cutting back on luxury fashion and spending more on high street purchases, men are prioritising luxury purchases.

Research by American Express shows that in 2011, men's year-on-year spending on luxury fashion grew slightly by 1%, while spending on mainstream fashion fell by 1.2%. In contrast, women cut back slightly (0.7%) on luxury fashion spending, while increasing spending on mainstream fashion by 5.2%.

Rick Edwards: What’s naughty, what’s nice…

Rick Edwards Style ColumnView larger picture

Summer looks. Enlarge for details

Disclaimer: This month's column is, in some respects, an anti-column. I'm going to talk about clothes that you shouldn't be wearing. For the avoidance of doubt, the clothes pictured are alternatives. Clothes that you should wear. Nice clothes. Not naughty clothes.

The inspiration for this somewhat contrary approach is a childish game that my friend and I play when we find ourselves with a spare hour in a shopping area. The rules of the game are: you enter a not-very-good clothes store and have one minute in which to run off and find a naughty – there's that term again – item of clothing for your opponent. You then reconvene at the changing rooms and try on the piece that has been selected for you. The winner is the person who has found the naughtiest item – ie the person who ends up looking the worst is the loser. It's fun, but I should warn you that security personnel get wary quite quickly when they see a pair of goons running around the shop floor giggling. And not buying anything.

In broad terms, naughty just means bad. Bad meaning bad. I saw a classic example this weekend – a white blazer (already pretty naughty) with graffiti-style writing on the back (very, very naughty). The first atrocity I want you all to avoid is the elasticated trouser cuff. These are everywhere at the moment, when they should be nowhere. They look like incontinence trousers. The naughtiest incarnation of these is, of course, the elasticated cuff and drop-crotch combo. They really do give the impression that you've got exploding bowels. If you own some, do yourself a favour and bin them. Don't even give them to charity. If you crave a super-slim fit around your ankle, get some tapered chinos from Dockers (pictured). Or do that sort of origami turn-up that narrows the opening.

Next in the firing line is the epaulette. It's very easy to work out whether you should be wearing a shirt with epaulettes. Are you in the armed forces? Yes, then carry on. No, then take the offending garment off immediately. Again, if you want to wear a short-sleeved shirt, there are plenty of nice non-military examples. So buy one of them.

The final no-no is any fluorescent garment. Even if you have a mahogany tan, you will still look like a berk in a neon-green polo shirt. Leave the fluoro nonsense to Staedtler. That said, a hint of naughtiness can, very occasionally, work. The yellow stripe on that polo shirt (pictured)? It's naughty, but I like it. The risk pays off.

Other items that are clearly off-limits are: waistcoats without jackets; shirts with integrated hoods; anything sleeveless. All of them have previously won the game. So behave yourselves, you naughty boys.

Email Rick at rick.edwards@observer.co.uk or visit guardian.co.uk/profile/rick-edwards for all his articles in one place

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