Tag: getty images

The New Burma by Ed Giles

Getty photographer Ed Giles decided to highlight and reveal what he called the "New Burma". It is a serie of amazing photographs that captures the essence of this exotic place... the way...

Men’s fashion

Men's fashion 1966

Suits designed in 1966 by Aquascutum and Simpson-Daks, members of the British Menswear Guild. Photograph: Keystone/Getty Images

The growing variety in men's clothes has reached a point where the tailoring world talks of rival styles. In Britain, it is the Flare line; in Germany, the Flowerpot line; in America, it is the Ivy League. Named designers of men's clothes are conspicuously absent, particularly in Britain.

Whatever the designer's interpretation of what men (or, as often or not, their womenfolk) want in clothes, it is increasingly apparent that we are fast moving towards an "international" style. Of course, there will be variations: age modifications between, say, the "teenager," the "man about town" and the "professional man", plus national variations.

Just as Paris has had to fight to resist the challenge of Italy and America in women's fashion, so today Savile Row is making a stand to retain some claim for traditional British bespoke tailoring. Hence, the Flare line, London's first major attempt for a decade to introduce a revolutionary new style. Will it succeed?

This spring's version of the Flare line, first introduced a year ago, is modified to the point where it at least becomes a practicable proposition. It is essentially the marriage of a cavalry-type jacket, longish in length and flared, and semi-bell-bottomed trousers with turn-ups.

Combined with it is the growing emphasis on brighter colours, on bold checks for country and Italian-inspired stripes for town wear. Waistcoats pick up a single colour from woollen or worsted suiting and are further enlivened by a novel cut.

Already, Savile Row reports that some of London's bold pioneers are adopting and adapting the Flare line. It will need further modification, however, before the ready-tailored manufacturers attempt to market it on a mass scale. Which is probably why the bespoke tailors have plunged for it.

The continental Flowerpot style is slender-making. The emphasis is on freedom of movement. It appeals as much to the young man on the continent as to those who wish to hide middle-age spread.

The jacket is directly opposed to the British conception. It is short with natural sloping shoulders, narrow lapels and slim sleeves to give the arms more emphasis. The trousers hug the hips and have very narrow bottoms without the turn-ups.

A touch of continental logic: bespoke tailors now cut the trouser knee on slightly fuller lines; this, together with a lining from the knee upwards, prevents bagging.

In America, this same mood of casualness has been developed over the years from what the college students wore into what has become known as the Ivy League line. Extreme forms of the Ivy, popular with younger men, are similar to our Edwardian style.

Already an American version of the Flowerpot has appeared, known as the Continental. No doubt each country will adopt its rival's styles. It becomes harder and harder to spot a man's nationality by his clothes.

Fashion Statement: Ballet pumps, Acquascutum in administration and the trend test

Fashion Statement: Ballet pumps, Acquascutum collapse and readers testing trends

Fashion Statement: Ballet pumps, Acquascutum collapse and readers testing trends. Photograph: Hulton Archive/Guardian /Martin Karius/Duffy/Rex Features

Dare to bare? Our readers did!
Well, sort of. Four Guardian fashion readers volunteered to Test the Trend this month, which involved wearing Warehouse's sheer grey top and letting us know how the style worked for them. Three of them liked it, and one most definitely did not, so overall it was a thumbs up for Warehouse from the ladies. If you want to take part in a forthcoming Test the Trend feature, please email us with your full name, dress and shoe size, age, occupation and location.

A photoshoot for Aquascutum menswear, 1960 A photoshoot for Aquascutum menswear, 1960. Photograph: Duffy/Getty Images

Acquascutum falls into administration
"In a tale of two trench coats, Aquascutum collapsed into administration as Burberry posted an 11% rise in sales," wrote Josephine Moulds and Zoe Wood of the demise of the 161-year-old business. "Harold Tillman, owner of retailers Jaeger and Aquascutum (the name means 'water shield') had ambitions to follow in the footsteps of Burberry, another classic but antiquated British label which had reinvented itself as a worldwide luxury brand. The dream came to an abrupt end after Tillman on Monday sold Jaeger in a rescue deal and appointed administrators FRP Advisory for Aquascutum." Read the full story here.

Samantha Cameron, Elle MacPherson, Kate Moss, Pippa Middleton, Samantha Cameron, Elle MacPherson, Kate Moss, Pippa Middleton Composite

Ballet pumps? That will be a flat no.
Apparently ballet pumps are so popular that they're being blamed for damaging Marks & Spencers' profits. Yep, so good it's ... bad? "There were 100,000 pairs sold in the first quarter of 2012 – a whopping 76% rise on 2011 – but the retailer says that it should have bought more stock, and could have sold 7,000 more pairs," writes Jess Cartner-Morley. "The figures confirm what John Lewis reported last August, when it announced ballet pump sales were up 129% on the same month in the previous summer: the ballet pump is over."

Invisible Woman Photograph: Jen Petreshock/Getty Images

Getting dressed when you're getting old is tough - literally
The Guardian's Invisible Woman knows a thing or two about balancing out the inevitable ageing process with looking good. But what about wear and tear? And she's not talking about clothing. "The four cuffs in my left shoulder are deeply and profoundly unhappy – and deeply and profoundly painful. In short, I can't move my arm to the side or behind me, or push, or pull, or carry anything heavier than a paper clip. It's not uncommon," she writes. "It's wear and tear, and I'll bet a pound to a penny that lots of you have suffered from the same condition. It's a debilitating unpleasant thing and it's pulled me up short because there are lots of things I can't do easily. Like putting on a bra, for example. I've been given a premonition of my old age, and I don't like it." Who would? Plenty of readers offered practical advice, but the tea and sympathy was appreciated just as much.

Agi & Sam Models display creations by designer Agi and Sam of MAN during a fashion show at London Fashion Week, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2012. Photograph: Kirsty Wigglesworth/AP

Men's fashion is all the rage in Britain
Two stories this week prove that British menswear is at an all time high. First comes this buzz generating video from London Collections: Men announcing the first ever dedicated men's fashion event in London, which will kick off in June. Details of the schedule are expected any day now, but as the video in question shows, it's high time British menswear got the props it deserves. Speaking of which, our second exciting British men's fashion-shaped feature comes via assistant fashion editor, Simon Chilvers, and his inspiring interview with newcomers Agi & Sam. Roll on June, we say.

Illamasque makeup Illamasqua makeup: would you wear blue lipstick? Well, would you?

• If you want even more fashion-related things to read, head to guardian.co.uk/fashionfor Jess Cartner-Morley on sparkly trousers, the very same JCM interviewing Tinie Tempah on his new clothing range and Anita Bhagwandas on daring to wear blue lipstick this summer.

Fashion Statement: Raf Simons, shoes and shopping

Jil Sander collections

Jil Sander collections. Photograph: Getty Images

Position filled, and not before time

So finally we have our answer. Raf Simons is officially the new man in at Dior. Cathy Horyn of the New York Times broke the news on bank holiday Monday and we temporarily put our Easter egg eating duties on hold to digest the news. Simons is a popular choice for the role judging by the rapturous response from the entire fashion industry. You probably already know much more about the Belgian designer than you think you do – here's Imogen Fox on what to expect at the house of Dior in the coming months. And in case you were wondering: although he's unlikely to completely ditch his minimalist roots, the man himself claims that femininity will be the watchword in Simons-era Dior. We're already counting down to the Paris Couture shows in July to see what he will do.

Shopping pointers for stylish gentlemen

Hot spring style High-street spring style. Photograph: COS/H&M/Wolsey

Fashionable men: we feel like we may have neglected you on the shopping front of late. So Simon Chilvers decided to redress the balance with some hot spring shopping suggestions from the high street. Whether it's a simple sweatshirt, a shiny bomber or a restrained pair of trainers you're after, here are a few pointers. Any resemblance of this gallery to the Raf Simons aesthetic is entirely coincidental (OK, it was that kind of a week).

How green is the high street giant H&M?

h&m-sustainable H&M's Exclusive Conscious collection has been made from sustainable materials

The Observer was given early access to the brand's latest sustainability report, which was published this week. Here's Lucy Siegle's take on the retail giant's quest for sustainability. Meanwhile, the brand launched its new red carpet collection – an offshoot of its existing eco-friendly Conscious line. Those with a keen fashion eye will remember that Michelle Williams gave us a preview of the line at this year's Baftas.

Ask and ye shall receive (brutally honest) fashion wisdom

Chloe Green Chloe Green. Photograph: Richard Young/Rex Features

Want to read Hadley Freeman's appraisal of Chloe (daughter of Philip) Green's latest venture into shoe design? "Raised on the mean streets of Monaco and with nothing to keep her entertained other than Daddy's 7m plane and 20m yacht … Chloe is now branching out into shoe design, presumably having opted against DJing and lingerie manufacturing, the usual pastimes of the young, moneyed and untrained." Of course you do. Click here.

Debating matter

Last week's Brick-gate saga got the Invisible Woman thinking about her three different makeup faces. For her it's Work Face, Going Out Face and Weekend Face. Want to join in the makeup/no makeup debate? Step this way.

And finally ...

Who needs the sun when you've got St Tropez? Who needs the sun when you've got St Tropez?

Anna Chesters has the final word on fake tan in her Brief History of St Tropez. Meanwhile, we take a look at Amir Khan potentially punching above his fashion weight.

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