Tag: house

Mirror, Mirror

If you're looking for infinity, you'll find it harnessed on the third floor in Dover Street Market. Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent collection – menswear, womenswear and accessories – is reflected to the hilt in a cabinet of dress-up geometry.

Appropriating techniques and materials from French Art Deco with Bauhaus influence, repetitive vitrines are constructed in poli mirror, brass and extra clear mirror, playing the House code of silver and gold in unison. It's the ultimate frame for Slimane's youth quake tailoring, leather jackets, suspended Paris heels and blue jeans, an item Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent had great regard for, quoting, "They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity – all I hope for in my clothes". This installation remains equally as potent empty of the ritualistic wardrobe.

It's not the first time Slimane has exhibited at Rei Kawakubo's original concept store, however, as the creative showcased his F System furniture project back in 2007, a series of artisan crafted loveseats and tables transposed – and disrupted – from historical silhouettes in stainless steel and ebony.

Mayfair's the hotspot where the impetus of other eras meets the future, it seems. All those mirrors make sure the romance bounces the right way.

Dazed’s House Ball

To celebrate London Fashion Week and the launch of AnOther and Dazed's new issues, we threw a house ball. Guests gathered for dinner in Caf Royal's Grill Room for dinner, before walking through a visually dreamy environment created by installation artist Matthew Stone, to the Member's Club upstairs. There, guests enjoyed Belevedere on tap, and got down as NYC DJ/producer MikeQ and House of Trax's Fools and Rushmore played a thrilling and varied mix of ballroom house and R&B. Cries of "Can I get some fries with that shake," accompanied a catwalk invasion of vogue dancers, who dipped and clicked through the crowd. As NYC's ballroom revivalist DJ/producer MikeQ told us that night: "Voguing never really went away."

Dazed's favourite provocatrice rap princess Brooke Candy took to the stage around midnight, wearing her signature stacked trainers and gold armour as she performed 'Everybody Does' and 'Das Me,' to the assembled throng as revellers danced until the Ball closed its doors. We can safely report that no shade was thrown.

Androgynous Models

Girls who are boys

They can switch up their look and transform from a man into a woman in the blink of an eye. They model men’s and women’s clothes and on stage you hardly know that the super sexy woman model is, well, actually a male. Andrej Pejic, Lea T. and Tilda Swinton are just few of the androgynous models. The boundaries between men and women were never so blurry.

In the 21st century it seems like boundaries no longer exist. Internet and smart phones bridge gaps of place and time, unisex clothes blur the differences between male and female. When it comes to fashion, designers and photographers are a crucial part of this tendency. Not only do they create fashion items that can fit both men and women, they are also using androgynous models that dare fashion visions and axiom as we know them.

Biologically speaking, androgynous is a human being who has both a male and female reproductive system. Androgynous models manage to ignite the imagination of many fashion designers and photographers.

Andrej Pejic is one of the most successful androgynous models out there. He was born in Serbia and always had a very unique and gentle look. Though his first steps in the fashion industry weren’t so easy, nowadays you can see him on the runways and on a plethora of fashion magazine covers.

Whereas other androgynous models specialize in modeling women’s or men’s wear, Pejic is most famous for his ability to model both genders. In January of 2011, Pejic walked for Jean Paul Gaultier during Paris Fashion Week dressed as a woman, and in Marc Jacobs’ show he modeled menswear. He also participated in Burberry Prosum fashion show and looked gorgeous on the runway surrounded by beautiful female models. Lately Pejic has been leading a campaign for a mega push-up bra for the Dutch company, Hema.

However, Andrej Pejic is not the only androgynous model you can see on ads. Brazilian Lea T. is another famous androgynous model, who Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci called “a true Goddess.” In 2010 she became the face of Givenchy and in January of 2011 she walked for Alexandre Herchcovitch during Sao Paolo fashion week. Her modeling career included several appearances on fashion magazines covers. Most controversial was the cover for Love Magazine where she was featured kissing Kate Moss.

Tilda Swinton is a talented actress and a beautiful model who easily transforms herself from female to male. She is the face of Pringle of Scotland Fashion House and inspired a full Viktor & Rolf collection in 2003. Her ability to blur the boundaries between traditional genders was evident both on the runways and on the big screen where she played the role of Mozart in the movie “Orlando”.Late top designer Alexander McQueen also noticed the exotic androgynous trend. In his last menswear collection, McQueen included David Chiang, another famous androgynous model. Chiang is the first Asian male model ever to walk for Italian label Emporio Armani. His soft skin and smooth hair along with delicate facial features caught the eyes of fashion photographers such as Steven Klein and paved Chiang’s way to many well-known fashion magazines.

Androgynous models show more than anything that beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The fashion world has more than enough room to express every phenomena and style. The question is -- can you enjoy the show no matter who walks on the runway? If the answer is yes, we can be sure -- fashion has won.

The German writers reworking Hitler

“Every German is obliged to ensure that the Holocaust is not forgotten” a pokerfaced Uwe Boll said, around the same time he was crowned The World’s Worst Filmmaker in the wake of his 2011 film, “Auschwitz”. His own contribution to the collective memory of the Shoah was memorable for all the wrong reasons; an upshot of the fact that Boll had already made a name for himself as the mastermind behind such video game film adaptations as, BloodRayne, House of the Dead (HoTD) and Alone in the Dark.

But subtler minds than Boll have shared his sentiment about speaking the unspeakable through art. This month, on a romp through the European lit scene, I happened upon two.

German writer, Timur Vermes, is a professional ghostwriter who has harnessed his ventriloquistic skills in his first novel to tackle one of the most brutal subjects imaginable –Adolf Hitler. The title– He’s Back – says something about the novel’s jocular tone, and something, too, about how the passing of time loosens tongues on even “unmentionable” topics. It’s 2011, and Hitler’s woken up with a raw headache having spent the night in the bunker with Eva Braun. He stumbles through Berlin, scratching his heavy head over where all the Russian soldiers went, like someone crawling home at 6am who swore they took their denim jacket to the party. Hitler paranoid as hell; he’s sure people are staring and laughing at him. They are, of course, because they think he’s a regular guy doing a Prince Harry – only funny. Hitler turns into a YouTube phenomenon. He’s filmed on a visit to the headquarters of a German fascist party, where he’s appalled by the lack of commitment to the cause that he sees amongst the young neo-Nazis. When they realise Hitler’s won a prestigious journalism award for exposing them, they jump him. Yes, Hitler gets jumped by Neo-Nazis. It’s Ali G meets Heil Honey I'm Home meetsFawlty Towers. (Or, in fact, just Fawlty Towers.)

The other German tackling the subject of Nazi Germany is graphic novelist, Reinhard Kleist. Since the publication of Cash and Castro, Kleist’s been steadily building a name for himself as the fore figure of a new wave of German author-illustrators. He has a studio with three other artists in Prenzlauer Berg. Der Boxer tells the life story of Hertzko Haft, who survives the Holocaust through a combination of physical resilience and devotion his sweetheart, Leah. Having been introduced to boxing for the amusement of the Nazi officers, after he escapes Hertzko decides to fight for a living in America, where he hopes he might also track down his girl. Kleist’s novel is a modern-day Maus in the most obvious sense. Kleist pays deference to the game-changing novel, but also explains his own deviations from Spiegleman’s Pulitzer prize-winner. As he explained over email: “Maus is still a very important book... I am not a fan of his idea to use animals as persons in the story. But this is part of the thinking process he did at that time … dealing with the thought “Can I do this?” Now we are able to deal with the subject more openly, which is not always good. I hate books (or movies) where the victims of the Holocaust are just sad looking puppets. They are human beings and … sometimes they are not good ones. That is something I want to provoke in the reader: Do I still identify with Hertzko after he … knowingly beat people to death?” Kleist cuts to the chase in that his characters are humans –pain is pain in this novel and some of the boxing scenes are beyond graphic; they’re brutal. Offsetting this are the text-less pages where images cross the frontier that language, according to Kleist, can’t. “My favourite scene from Der Boxer is when Hertzko has to work in a factory and comes home. There are no words, nothing much happens, but for him a whole world collapses.”

For me, the text never destroys the impact of Kleist’s drawings; he has a gift as deft as a fine short-story writer for delivering a line like a slap in the face (see, “I have no fear” and you’ll know what I mean). Luckily for the non-German readers, you can still relish the still movie that is Der Boxer. But this graphic novel is crying out for an English translation. For Boll’s sake, at least, somebody translate these silences.

Cover Image: Roger Wollstadt

Fashion Roundup: Cameron Diaz Shows Skin on Harper’s Bazaar UK, Superhero Fashion from Down Under and Rihanna’s New Video!

Fashion Roundup: Cameron Diaz Shows Skin on Harper’s Bazaar UK, Superhero Fashion from Down Under and Rihanna’s New Video!

The Sunday Times have officially released their “Fashion Rich List”, which includes names such as Mulberry owner Christina Ong who jumped up 53 places on the list thanks to a 70% growth last year. The Sunday Times also released a “Richest Couples List” and an “Under-30” list that includes Vogue cover girls Keira Knightley and Adele. (Vogue UK)

Cameron Diaz poses for Harper’s Bazaar UK’s June issue, photographed in a beige seductive dress just a scandalous centimeter away from a “nip slip” incident. The actress also posed for the sexy shoot in a white button-down and her undies. (Huffington Post)

The White House Correspondents Association Dinner showcased fashionable gowns worn by ‘A list’ celebs, including, Mila Kunis, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Kim Kardashian, who was the target of some jokes coming from President Obama and Jimmy Kimmel. (Washington Post)

Superheroes Fashion Show at Australian Fashion Week! The Aussie designers of fashion label Romance Was Born put on an astonishing show featuring an incredible superhero theme. (Herald Sun)

Model-turned-actress Brooklyn Decker appears on the cover of Flare’s June issue, looking as beautiful as ever, wearing an amazing top and skirt by Peter Pilotto on the cover as well as Victoria Beckham and Stella McCartney designs inside the issue. (Styleite)

Closing our list of fashion highlights for this week, Rihanna is out with a sizzling hot new video! ‘Where Have You Been’ is the title for this summer’s potential hit track. The styling in this video is tribal and heavily-accessorized, also Rihanna is wearing a Roberto Cavalli swimsuit. Check it out:

LIVE: Tea Party Group Flip-Flops, Now Opposes Boehner’s ‘Plan B’

is in the process of whipping votes for a 7:30 p.m. vote on his "Plan B" legislation, Politico's

.

The other is the "Spending Reduction Act of 2012," which his office said would replace the sequester and reduce the deficit by an additional $242 billion. The House passed this bill in May, but it was never taken up in the Senate. Among other things, it cuts funding for Medicaid, the federal food-stamp program, and the Affordable Care Act.

The spending cut measure, which was added to the agenda late Wednesday, is evidence that GOP House leaders did not believe that they had the votes to pass "Plan B" alone.

Boehner is scheduled to hold a press conference at 1:15 p.m. ET today. We'll be updating here with all your "Plan B" news.

That's the limit for passage, if no Democrats break rank.

The full list here:

Justin Amash (Mich.) Will vote no; voted against the rule

Joe Barton (Texas) Opposed

Paul Broun (Ga.) He is now a firm no; voted against the rule

John Fleming (La.) Leaning no

Trent Franks (Ariz.) Voted against the rule

Trey Gowdy (S.C.) Opposed

Louie Gohmert (Texas) Voted against the rule

Andy Harris (Md.) Voted against the rule

Tim Huelskamp (Kan.) Will vote no; voted against the rule

Walter Jones (N.C.) Voted against the rule

Jim Jordan (Ohio) Will vote no; voted against the rule

Raul Labrador (Idaho) “I’m a ‘Hell, no!’ ” he said.

Doug Lamborn (R-Colo.) Opposed

Jeff Landry (La.) Opposed; voted against the rule

Thomas Massie (Ky.) Voted against the rule

Mick Mulvaney (S.C.) Opposed

Ron Paul (Texas) Voted against the rule

Steve Scalise (La.) Went from undecided to no after Rules Committee rejected his amendment

Jean Schmidt (Ohio) Voted against the rule

Marlin Stutzman (Ind.) Opposed

Joe Walsh (Ill.) Will vote no; voted against the rule

Allen West (Fla.) Leaning no, citing sequester

Lynn Westmoreland (Ga.) Firm no

Nancy Pelosi

House Minority Leader Nancy Pelosi said at her weekly press briefing that Congress is moving "farther away from a deal" to avert the fiscal cliff.

The U.S. Chamber of Commerce, a conservative business lobby, declared its support for Boehner's "Plan B" Thursday afternoon, putting out an open letter to members of the House that calls the bill "an absolute prerequisite to addressing our deficit and debt problems."

The letter also adds a caveat, saying that the organization would be "much more at ease" if the bill also addressed government spending cuts and entitlement reform. It adds that the Chamber is "not comfortable" with raising taxes, but understands that "at times, politics requires compromise."

Here's the full text of the letter:

TO THE MEMBERS OF THE U.S. HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES:

The U.S. Chamber of Commerce, the world’s largest business federation representing the interests of more than three million businesses and organizations of every size, sector, and region, urges your support for the substitute amendment to H.J. Res. 66 and H.R. 6684, the socalled Plan B. Maintaining economic growth is an absolute prerequisite to addressing our deficit and debt problems. Going over the fiscal cliff and allowing the largest tax increase in our history would certainly severely hamper if not totally eliminate economic growth for the near term. Thus, Plan B, which would extend the current tax rates for 99.81 percent of the American people – all but those making over $1 million, patch the alternative minimum tax (AMT), extend current estate tax levels, and creates parity for capital gains and dividends taxes, and replace the sequestration spending cuts with more thoughtful spending restraint, is a viable option.

However, the Chamber believes that the sole benefit of this legislation is that it averts going off the fiscal cliff. It does not address our excessive government spending, does not reform our unsustainable entitlement programs, and does not achieve fundamental comprehensive tax reform. Indeed, a case could be made that by eliminating the exigency brought on by the approaching cliff, that this bill makes it less likely that Congress and the Administration will address these important issues in the near future. We would be much more at ease with our support for this bill, if it contained assurances and a mechanism to achieve these important long run goals.

The Chamber believes that extending the current tax rates for all while building a pathway to a bigger deal with fundamental entitlement reform and fundamental comprehensive tax reform is clearly the best policy. Moreover, we are not comfortable allowing tax increases on anyone in this environment. However, we understand that, at times, politics requires compromise. Thus, we support passage of H.J. Res. 66 and H.R. 6684.

Sincerely,
R. Bruce Josten

Last night, the conservative group FreedomWorks came out in favor of John Boehner's "Plan B" legislation. They've now flipped.

Here's a look at their flip-flop on their site. The headline on the page still says "Two Cheers For Boehner's Plan B."

FreedomWorks Boehner

Keeping score, that means FreedomWorks joins RedState, Heritage Action and Club for Growth in opposing Plan B.

He warned Senate Democrats must bring Plan B to the floor before Senate adjourns or "be responsible for the largest tax hike in history."

Despite Reid's threat to kill the Plan B bill in the Senate, Boehner says he is "not convinced" th ebill will die in the Senate.

Boehner's press conference is starting...

White House Press Secretary Jay Carney said Thursday that Republicans had "walked away" from a compromise with Obama. "Plan B," Carney said, "is a multi-day exercise in futility, at a time when we don't have days to spare."

The Plan B bill, Carney added, is a "matter of internal House Republican politics."

Carney added that "there is still time for a compromise on a big bill" to avoid the fiscal cliff.

In a press conference of Senate Democrats, Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid said Democrats will not take up the bill if it passes the House.

"Let me be absolutely clear: Speaker Boehner's plans are nonstarters in the Senate," Reid said, calling it a "pointless political stunt."

New York Sen. Schumer adds: "Plan B is not taken seriously by anyone in America." Senate Majority Whip Dick Durbin, meanwhile, compared Boehner's strategy to "Thelma & Louise" — hitting the gas to go over the cliff.

As Republicans prepare to vote on "Plan B," the White House has updated the President's schedule today to include a visit with Wounded Warriors at Walter Reed National Military Medical Center this afternoon.

In a press conference Thursday morning, House Majority Leader Eric Cantor said that Republicans have the votes to pass both the "Plan B" bill, as well as the related spending cuts bill.

He added that Republican leaders don't plan on sending members home after the vote.

He has almost nothing in the way of public opinion on his side.

After The Weeknd

theweeknd

On “Enemy”, the first new song from The Weeknd this year outside of the three bonus tracks on his recent mixtape compilation Trilogy, Abel Tesfaye sings: “Cause the least I deserve is no conversation / I been working all week / I’d rather be your enemy / Then any friend you think I would be.” It finds the anonymous, disturbingly non-autonomous women (or is it the same woman?) that Tesfaye stalks in his songs finally completing their subjugation to dumb accessory. It’s the inevitable culmination of a narrative arc that’s seen him slide from ecstasy to detachment via depravity as, conversely, he’s risen from the internet’s fringe to mainstream validation.

But where does he go from here? In becoming music’s embodiment of Steve McQueen's Shame - the smirking sex addict desperate to expel his frozen feelings in bed yet painfully aware it’s but a momentary release from the emotional intimacy he cannot engage in - has he painted himself into a corner? As the desire gets cruder and the fantasies darker, the boredom kicks swifter when all you’re doing is chasing that first high.

Empress Of – Champagne

empress_of_press_2_hi

With only a handful of songs finished but a huge catalogue of recorded snippets released as a 'Colourminutes' series on YouTube, Empress Of is admittedly still developing her sound. So far however, it's been a delightful mix of abstract lo-fi retro sounds and glistening melodies with a nostalgic feel. Her delicate, feminine vocals are intricately weaved with faded synths and trippy percussion in her latest tracks Don't Tell Me and Champagne which you can exclusively download here.

Dazed Digital: How would you introduce your music to those who don't know?
Empress Of: I would hope that my music sounds as confusing to me as it does to others. I'm still developing a sound, whether on recording or at a live show, so I feel sometimes like there are a lot of good clashing elements in my music. Simple at times, but then intricate vocal melodies creep up from behind with ultra-present guitar parts or synths. It's definitely feminine, and even more definitively emotional.

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