Tag: king

Nicopanda GIF riot – Akihiko Taniguchi

When Nicola first began his Dazed takeover, he emailed us about five innovative GIF designers from around the world. Now, we've asked these Tumblr-ers to make their own adaptation of Nicola's panda illustration, the symbol at the heart of Nicola's new concept fashion lineNicopanda.

We've already had contributions from GIF makers German Lavrovskiy and Mr-GIF, and now we're introducingAkihiko Taniguchi. Having already experimented with the presentation of GIFs in his project, GIF 3D Gallery,where he created an interactive space to display the GIFs as work's of art in a gallery, we asked Taniguchi a few questions about his custom Nico-panda-GIF and the future of GIF-making.

Tell me about the panda GIF you made.

Sometimes I make the visual sketch using processing. And again this time, I made the sketch using processing before converting it into a GIF.

Tell me about your practice and style.

I don't always make GIFs. I'm interested in modeling and composition - how objects overlap - and producing another meaning from there.

What do you do when you’re not making GIFs?

Surf the web. Make art work in other forms.

How did you start making GIFs?

I was seldom making GIFs until now. But I was happy researching internet art and making my own artwork for several years. From those activities, I noticed the importance and peculiarity of the GIF. Then I made GIF 3D Gallery this summer. This is an internet artwork, which can put GIFs onto a pedestal in a 3D gallery, and be viewed online. I made the pedestal for the GIFs at first. Then, I came to make GIFs for the pedestal.

What’s your all time favourite GIF and GIF designer?

Anthony Antonellis, Francoise Gamma and Matt Goerzen. He is mainly a painter, but I think his GIFs are also the concept and statement of his work.

Recent months have seen a return of the GIF as an item of popular discourse and funny thing to drop into an email. What do you put this down to?

1. The decline of the flash and the spread of Tumblr.
2. Increased susceptibility to the internet in daily life.

A GIF format is a very old graphics format. However, compared with other graphics formats, the GIF is special. GIF can use a transparent background and it is always related to a background where it's placed. GIF resembles three-dimensional sculpture rather than pictures and photographs which always cut off the world squarely. GIF exists like a substance with mass.

Where do you think the art of the GIF maker is going?

It is not only a question for GIFs. Some internet artists feel that the relation between actual space and the internet is sensitive. I think that two trials exist there.The first is the trial which tries to place GIFs (internet artwork) in a gallery on the internet, and the second trial which tries to put GIFs in an actual space.It will have to do with the materiality of the aforementioned GIF. I think GIF became a media independent from other image formats. Although it is not applied to all GIF makers, I think how actual space and the internet are mediated/connected is something important to consider.

East Asia’s new wave: day #2

Alfred Ng, 23, Hong Kong

As a student, tattooist Alfred Ng had no interest in art, but a bet to match his friend’s final grades in art class changed all of that. Not only did Ng win the bet, he tapped into an undiscovered talent and passion for painting. This turned into a fascination with tattoos, and Ng got his first taste of ink when he was 18. He hasn’t looked back since.

Describe your personal style in three words.
Punk. Raw. Black.


Name three songs that you can't live without.
Zeds Dead - Eyes on Fire / Deadmau5 - Raise Your Weapon / Nero - Innocence



What is the most exciting part of Asia's young creative arts scene?

Asia's arts scene had always been slightly different to the rest of the world; for me, art should be appreciated in terms of its creative/artistic/historical value. Asian art, on the other hand, has always been aimed at making money, hence why I see 'art' in Asia always being incorporated with different media elements, such as music and live-shows, for greater commercial value. It seems, as long as it provides a certain commercial gain, you'll suddenly become 'artistic'. 


How do you think the perception of Asian pop culture has changed in the last 10 years?

The development of technology and social media such as Facebook, Instagram, Tumblr and Weibo has influenced the way in which people communicate with one another. The immediacy of thoughts, pictures and songs being posted online has allowed for much quicker integration and transfer of information between people. Whereas, ten years ago, information might have been limited within the local community, it is now possible to know what's happening thousands of miles away, thanks to the Internet. I think it has helped the liberation of Asian pop culture, and how Asian pop culture is being perceived nowadays. For example, anything with sexual, violent connotations would probably not have been seen as 'art' ten years ago, or someone with tattoos might have immediately been viewed as a criminal or a gangster—nowadays however, these narrow-minded views are slowly changing and there has been greater diversification in Asian pop culture.



How does the city influence your creativity?

Hong Kong's diverse culture and buzzing nature provides a very interesting dynamic and energy that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The British colonial buildings and Chinese buildings, the old streets of Hong Kong, local market stalls and art galleries never fail to provide inspiration for ideas in terms of my illustration, photography or creative thoughts.


Best hangout spot?

Austin Road West in Kowloon. There is a park with a running track. It is a lesser-known spot with very nice views of Victoria Harbour and the Peak.


Favourite website?
Lost at E-Minor.


What do your parents think of what you do?
Being stereotypically Asian, they are against tattoos and body art. I respect their views but life is too short – I want to be true to myself, be who I am and do what I love.


Matcha, 20, Tokyo

Nicola found 20-year-old Matcha at Candy, one of Tokyo’s stores of the moment, and cast him for his Nicopanda project at Isetan. He works at that store and models for its website daily, wearing Phenomenon, Gareth Pugh, KTZ and many other exciting designers’ collections. “Matcha” means “green tea” in Japanese – “I always eat this ice cream called Supercup Matcha,” he says, “and one day my friend named me Matcha, haha.”

Describe your personal style in three words.
Free. Moody. Self-satisfaction.

Name three songs you can't live without.
Azealia Banks: ‘212’. / Jason Chance: ‘Sober Talk’. / TLC: ‘Come Get Some’.

How do you think the perception of Asian pop culture has changed in the last ten years?
It's getting more exciting in both the music and fashion industries.

What has been the biggest highlight of your career so far?
When Nicola cast me for his Nicopanda pop-up store shoot at Isetan.

What’s the best hangout spot in Tokyo?
Fashion boutique Candy in Shibuya.

Favourite website?
www.fashiontography.net

Who's the wildest person you follow on Twitter?
Lady Gaga.

What do your parents think of what you do?
They don't care.

Love Focused Like A Laser

Matthew Stone is currently exhibiting his second solo show at the Hole Gallery, New York. Love Focused Like A Laser delves further into his exploration of spirituality, performance and the hope to attain credible conversations about love. In simple terms, his new works captures performers, using laser lights, on film and then engrave the images onto wood, using a computer. Already known for his beautiful photographs, which focus on the movement of the human body, captured by Matthew with intensity and passion, the artist talks to Dazed about how lasers feature in his new project and an upcoming collaboration with DJ MikeQ, as we show the pictures exclusively above.

DazedDigital: How did your exhibition at The Hole Gallery come about?

Matthew Stone: Well, it’s my second solo show at the Hole Gallery. About this time last year, November 2011, was when I did my first show there and I’ve been working with them since then. I’ve been making these new photographs, which are lit with club lasers, and Kathy Grayson (who runs the gallery) saw the photos and said, "Let’s do a show of just these!" Then I explained to them I wanted to try and develop this new technique..

DD: You use lasers, cameras and computers to engrave the images onto wood. What is it about the technique that inspires you?

Matthew Stone: Well basically, the idea for the lasers, came when I was in New York. I was in a nightclub and they had this laser, and I noticed it was doing interesting things when I photographed it. So that’s where it stems from. I then bought lasers and did a whole series of experiments. Played around with them. And because they were lasers, I was thinking about ways to present the images and I came up with the idea of laser cutting. I did tests with laser cutting and I wasn’t getting what I wanted. So the final images are cut with a computer controlled spinning drill head.

DD: So more of an engraving than a cutting?

Matthew Stone:Yes, like engraved paintings. It’s a spinning drill bit that cuts through the top layer of the wood and from certain angles, in the grooves, you can see the grain of the wood. It's hard to see them in a photograph though. You need to stand in front of it.

DD: How do you get the lasers to bounce off your performers?

Matthew Stone:I use long exposure, and I’m in front of the camera, drawing with the lasers, moving around and drawing on parts I want to be brighter. I guess it's like a light drawing. What I like about it is that it’s really physical, and a really different energy from the process of making it. There’s movement from the models and there’s movement from me, so the end result feels like documentation, a sort of performance of gesture. It’s shot in the dark, and there are just these dots everywhere, so there is this increased sense of freedom for the people that I’m photographing. Just because you feel less naked. It’s fun, I put music on, I recently realised how I had created this nightclub in my studio.

DD: Do you have a soundtrack?

Matthew Stone:Different shoots have different soundtracks, I was playing DJ Mike Q, he plays house and DJ’s a lot of balls in New York. I was playing his music, while I was shooting in London. We’re actually working on a project in Miami... it’s coming up at the beginning of next month.

DD: Performance does seem to feature throughout the series, and in a lot of your pieces. Do you see it as integral to your work?

Matthew Stone:In general I feel performance is important to my work, but in a way what I'm specifically interested in, is people and interaction. A friend of mine the other day said, “Yeah, but you love people”. Not as a bad thing, but as a reason.. I don’t know, I do love people, there’s always performative element just because people are involved

DD: Do you explore the performance of certain behaviors and spirituality in your work?

Matthew Stone:I mean, I understand if I think about performance and spirituality then I think about ritual. Ritual being something, an action, which allows us to step out of the everyday routine and become conscious of something else. Perhaps something more important. I think that those things occur in secular society as much as they do in religious society. In terms of the lighting, the works are lit so that when you walk in to the gallery you are met by the works that are dimly lit, in a big black space, so it has an almost church like feeling. The works are laid out in a symmetrical way as well, with three pieces on either side, and a large piece at the end, there is a feeling of entering a chapel like space.

DD: So the gallery space has the feeling of a church and a club all at once?

Matthew Stone:Basically the lights in the gallery space are set up on a timer, and we’ve had it on remote, so that I can switch between the kind of church like lighting, to literally all the lights are out and it's red and green laser dots everywhere. Sort of caressing the room. So that’s how the installation works. I think that nightclubs are in terms of transcendentalism, are spiritually more relevant places than churches.I mean I think that the kind of urges that draw people to dance, are the same things that took people into churches or into religiously conscious ritual.

DD: How do you feel this exhibition builds on your manifesto or links back to it?

Matthew Stone:We had a dinner for the exhibition and I read from it, I read the manifesto – I thought it would make the dinner more of an event - but as I read it, everything just seemed to fit perfectly with the show. The first line was reflected when I realized I was standing there in the dark with moving lights around the audience and me. Then also, as I read the end of manifesto, it was the title of the current show. I mean I don’t think I make artworks specifically to evidence and explain a set of clearly defined ideas, but I feel like it’s natural that the art that I make will be informed by the things that I’m thinking about

DD: All the artworks have a positive strain in them as well.. they come across as quite optimistic.

Matthew Stone:I think that hedonism is something that’s necessary sometimes, and something to celebrate. For me, realistically, when I look at all the things I’ve done, I don’t think it's that we oppose old ideas about performance and spirituality, but that we find new ways to communicate. Ones that are meaningful and sincere. To find ways to talk about aspects of humanity that are more linked. I think that those conversations are the most important.

I think there were a lot of ideas that were posed in the 1960s that seemed to fail, and I think now everybody understands, everybody experiences love, whether it’s the desire to be loved, or to love someone else, or to feel love, or loving someone... everyone experiences it. But for some reason talking about it or posing kindness, always seems weak or nave. I think at the moment, one half of me is taken up by creating propaganda for the idea that kindness can be a strength, and that it's not pathetic. And that it doesn’t mean we have to give up on exciting lives to communicate with people on a level that is respectful.

In a way the 20th century created a strong mythology for the idea of the artist or rebel, which is often based on the idea of rejecting ideas of morality. I think that was an important thing to happen, because it destroyed a lot of hypocrisy, and essentially destroyed a lot of cruelty. Now we’ve got to a point where we have to remind people that kind of violent rebellion was not about creating or validating through violence. It was a passionate attempt to destroy a morally corrupt or rotten society of Post-Victorian attitudes including misogyny, homophobia, and racism.

DD: Can you tell us more about your upcoming project with DJ MikeQ?

Matthew Stone:Well, the collaboration with MikeQ will probably take place onDecember 7th, in Miami. Basically we’re designing a performance. We’ll be presenting some more of the works that are in the show, with his music, but they’ll be music, dance, ballroom, work on the wall and an audience to watch it.

Love Focused Like A Laser will be at the Hole Gallery in New York from November 10 – December 31, 2012

Beauty product industry spot: bronzers

Beauty product industry spot

"Have you been away?": bronzers are wonderful - but be sure to use sparingly. Photograph: Image Source/Corbis

Say no to orange stripes. Say non to cheeks sparkling like they've been mined for gold. It's a nein from me to a white face painted brown, for many reasons, one of which is "bad application of bronzer". Bronzer, used well, does magical things at this time of year. Used well, brushed on with a big round brush (Nars, 42, 0800 123 400) rather than the piddly little ones that come in the box, it suggests you've been on a lovely languorous holiday rather than frantically making yourself up in the downstairs loo. Try Laura Mercier's Dune Bronze (26, lauramercier.com) or Benefit's Hoola (23.50, benefitBeauty products.co.uk). And aim for a subtle shimmer or matte finish – no glitter here, ta.

Alternatively

Benefit Hoola 23.50, benefitBeauty products.co.uk Givenchy Croisiere 32.50, 01932 233 824 Guerlain Terracotta Terra Soleia 44, 01932 23388 Tom Ford 65, harrods.com MAC Bronzing Powder 19, macBeauty products.co.uk

Prince Charles opens London menswear week

Prince Charles

'Clothes have to combine style with sustainability,' writes Prince Charles in GQ magazine. Photograph: Getty Images

He may not be monarch for a while yet, but for the next four days he is undisputed king of the front row. With the first ever week of men's catwalk shows in London falling hot on the heels of the jubilee, Prince Charles is the man charged with leading the British menswear industry into battle with the titans of France and Italy.

Tonight Prince Charles will host several hundred representatives from the fashion industry at a reception at St James's Palace, in celebration of the menswear shows that begin tomorrow.

Whether the prince will adopt Anna Wintour's trademark sunglasses for the duration is not known; what is certain is that the lure of a gold-embossed palace invitation is a significant coup for the British Fashion Council as they strive to fill the London front rows with the world's most powerful buyers and editors.

Despite stiff competition from parties hosted by Tinie Tempah (featuring crazy golf on the roof of Selfridges) and retailer Mr Porter (with DJ Alexa Chung), the St James's Palace invite the week's hot ticket. Menswear by Margaret Howell and Claire Malcolm of Hardy Amies on display during the reception, alongside designs by Christopher Raeburn, the winner of the emerging talent in menswear award at the most recent British Fashion Awards.

But the prominence of Prince Charles signifies more than simply a wish to capitalise on jubilee fever. The rich Savile Row tradition of British tailoring and a drive to promote quality British craftsmanship are a key part of the message of this fashion week. Those steering the event are keen to move the image of British designer menswear on from the creative-but-crazy label and into more commercial territory.

This is a shift which has been successfully made in womenswear, where the London collections are now a slick and respected element of the global industry rather than the eccentric afterthought they once were.

Writing in Vogue two years ago, Prince Charles demurred from being labelled "fashionable", but acknowledged that "there have been those generous enough to call me 'well dressed'". The Prince is a longtime customer of the shirtmakers Turnbull & Asser, whose shirts are made in a small factory in Gloucestershire, and the distinguished Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard.

"Clothes have to combine style with sustainability," writes the prince in the current issue of GQ magazine, "and I find British-made tailoring more than meets that challenge – much to the amusement of my staff, who are sometimes surprised to find that what I am wearing turns out to be as old as or even older than they are".

This week's showcase for British designer menswear hopes to capitalise on new findings which show that while women are cutting back on luxury fashion and spending more on high street purchases, men are prioritising luxury purchases.

Research by American Express shows that in 2011, men's year-on-year spending on luxury fashion grew slightly by 1%, while spending on mainstream fashion fell by 1.2%. In contrast, women cut back slightly (0.7%) on luxury fashion spending, while increasing spending on mainstream fashion by 5.2%.

Louis XIII Diamond Jubilee Cocktail. 10,000£!

King of the Cognacs, Louis XIII, creates a £10,000 Diamond Cocktail Fit for The Queen. To celebrate Her Majesty The Queen's Diamond Jubilee, King of the Cognacs, Louis XIII, has collaborated with the...

Are British men ready to wear prints?

Prints for men, by D&G, Prada and Burberry Prorsum

Prints for men, by D&G, Prada and Burberry Prorsum.

Gather round, men: your plain shirts and discreet dark jeans are looking a trifle tired. This season, it's all about print. From Hawaiian shirts to floral Dr Martens, patterns are on everything. Not since the 1980s – when it was all about the Manchester indie-rave scene and Versace's baroque designs – has print in menswear made fashion headlines.

Cut to now and Prada is selling floral trousers that riff on golfing slacks and printed shirts that whiff of 1950s Americana. Topman's retro paisley-print catwalk pyjamas sold out in February. Clumpy Dr Marten boots have been given a floral print remix for Liberty. Burberry is backing tribal print trousers, GQ has included these in its patterned trousers spread this month while Zara is selling Aztec-inspired backpacks. To say that print is enjoying a comeback is an understatement.

As the rain pelted down Tuesday, Marks & Spencer reported that men are buying rather a lot of lemon-yellow and rose-pink chinos, and perhaps even more surprisingly, Hawaiian shirts. Tony O'Connor, head of menswear design at M&S, says that "Hawaiian and vintage-looking prints, even in this adverse weather, have gone off really well", helped no doubt by George Clooney pulling off a decent Hawaiian shirt look in The Descendants. (OK, he was in Hawaii at the time, but the point remains.) "Guys are buying into colour now," says O'Connor, "so print is the next logical step."

Gareth Scourfield, fashion editor at Esquire, thinks we're all going to be shocked at how enthusiastically men embrace print. "When the block colour look started to come in, I remember wondering if men would get it. But from a designer level right through to the high street, everybody started to do well with bold colour jeans and chinos." Scourfield thinks that menswear has been mostly pared-back since the 90s, so perhaps it's time for men to have "more fun with fashion".

Topman's flagship Oxford Circus store is rammed with a dizzying array of prints, from Aztec- to African-inspired designs, floral to 50s kitsch. "For the British male, wearing print still requires quite a lot of confidence," says Gordon Richardson, Topman's design director. "It works on holiday, on the beach. But in dull British weather, prints are more difficult."

Versace Baroque designs … Versace. Photograph: Versace

The weather doesn't seem to be worrying the buyers, though. Asos will offer 60 styles of printed shirt this season and next month rolls out 60,000 printed products. "I've never seen this much print in menswear before," says John Mooney, the company's head of menswear design. He reports that the look is a particular hit with the 18-to-mid-20s demographic. "These guys are confident and cocksure, and there's a massive trend for standing out from the crowd and impressing your peers."

So why now? "I think we were definitely in danger of menswear becoming a little bit dull," says Topman's Richardson. "We went through this period of smartening up, of heritage-inspired clothing. Then colour infiltrated chinos. So to look individual, you almost had to try to explore print in some way." Now it covers a range of Topman products from caps, bracelets and wallets to T-shirts, shirts, bags, belts, vests and knits.

River Island's menswear design manager Elizabeth Taylor thinks the look has its origins in the success of last season's patterned knits, such as ironic Christmas jumpers and busy Fair Isle styles. "Men are getting used to bolder designs," she says.

In London, there is also emerging momentum for printed men's fashion from both established fashion week designers, such as Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Kane, and up-and-coming names such as Agi & Sam and Kit Neale. For Agi & Sam, whose buzz catwalk collection for autumn/winter featured rooster and duck prints, print "gives your brand an immediate identity, and originality. It also feels like you have created everything."

Neale, whose work also caught the eye during London fashion week, based his autumn/winter collection around his dad's allotment. Cue jolly vegetable and insect prints on T-shirts, bomber jackets and jeans. Among his friends, he says, there is an enthusiasm for both 1980s Moschino and vintage Versace, both known as loud statement labels. "The current preppy look has dominated men's fashion for too long," he says. Last year's collaboration between H&M and Versace welcomed a new and enthusiastic audience to the brand's archive. Donatella then put classic Gianni-era Versace prints back at the heart of the label during the spring/summer men's show, including patterned trousers, a look also shown by Paul Smith and Burberry.

This element of the print comeback, though, is perhaps a harder sell. "I think the look will be a slow burn and probably take a season or two to filter down," admits Robert Johnston, associate editor of GQ. "I suspect the Burberry-esque batik prints will be the first to become popular. And it will be a long time before most men will feel brave enough to wear Prada florals."

But with the backing of the high street, it seems that print is a look with legs – even if those legs aren't likely to be covered in floral patterns any time soon.

"There are so many ways to do print," says Dan May, style director at Mr Porter. "It covers the most adventurous guys. Or you can just pop in a print scarf or a tie so you address the trend but in a minimalist way. That's really the beauty of print, you can hit it as hard as you like."

Upcycling: how you get fashion from cast-offs

Upcycling: how you get fashion from cast-offs

Marks & Spencers have launched a new Shwopping scheme that has put 'upcycling', the process of making new clothes out of old, in the spotlight. But TRAID have been at it for years! And the ethical high street charity shop has raised over 30 million since launching in 1999. So how do the donations go from cast-offs to new designs? Follow a pair of old curtains and watch them become a covetable item

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