Tag: martin

There are ridiculous naysayers that will insist Maison Martin Margiela can never be the same without the man himself at the helm.The truth is at a label as mysterious as Margiela is, it’s always been difficult to see which lab-coated individual was responsible for what and that was always the intention. MMM sans Margiela has been through a "Reboot. Recharge. Rethink." phase, which felt like it had hit a eureka moment at its latest show.Rehashing old Margiela-isms wasn’t going to cut the mustard.Instead, the Maison forged ahead with its own take on masculine tailoring in faded pinstripes, rounded at the shoulders, elongated in the sleeve, and often with the cuffs acting as sculptural detailing. Hair tucked into straps in-built into practically every single silhouette was one practical take-away point.The visual decoration was powerful. Streaked with paint, injected with circular patent panels, trussed up in PVC, scribbled with luminous knit yarn embroidery and finally "defiled" by shouty typographic slogan gowns – this wasn’t MMM respectfully doing Margiela by textbook.This was MMM working away, conjuring up pieces that delight and perplex in equal measure, just as it always did.

www.maisonmartinmargiela.com

Makeup: Hannah Murray

Models pictured: Nastya Kusakina-@Kusakina_Nastya, Juliana Schurig-@juliana_schurig, Yumi Lambert-@YlaUr_Mal, Katia Selinger-@katiaselinger, Aline Weber-@alineweber_real

Last week, Prada released four sketches from Miuccia Prada’s collection of over 40 dresses for Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of The Great Gatsby. True to Luhrmann and Prada form, the dresses aren’t an obvious rehash of twenties style, but rather an idiosyncratic take on the period. Dreamt up in collaboration with Luhrmann’s wife, Oscar-winning costume designer Catherine Martin, the dresses take their cue from pieces from the Prada and Miu Miu archives: AW11’s vaguely sixties fur-collared fish scale dress makes an appearance in a new twenties guise, and SS11’s graphic, vibrant stripes have been re-imagined in sequins and plastic trimmings.

“In the same way Nick Carraway reflects on a world that he is within and without, we have tried to create an environment that the audience will be subconsciously familiar with, yet separated from,” Catherine Martin noted on the collaboration with Miuccia Prada. Obstructing any straightforward analysis and forgoing obvious style and era references is of course textbook Prada, making the designer the perfect choice for Baz Luhrmann’s time-travelling universe and the tale of Jay Gatsby – the man who hasn’t only constructed his own reality, but also his own history. While we wait for the film’s May release, here are our top five Baz Luhrmann costume moments.