Tag: soundtrack

The soundtrack at Dries Van Noten has always been emotionally stirring in the past but this time, it properly clued you into the show. 'Night and Day' and 'Cheek to Cheek' were classic oldies twisted into a mix. Exactly what Van Noten served up in this masterclass of a collection, teaching us all how the masculine and feminine can co-habit in pure harmony. Starting out with menswear elements such as straight-legged trousers (sometimes with an added kilt skirt), mannish Crombie coats, Savile Row fabrics and old world collegiate stripes. He then in his own words "invaded" them with feminine frou frou, derived from ice skating and ballroom dancing as the relationship between Fred and Ginger played its way into the collection. No dodgy sequins or spandex here. Instead, there was love in the air. "It’s about the love between men and women and in the end it becomes one!," explained Van Noten backstage.

Embroideries that were deliberately too bright, crystals were oversized and there was an abundance of ostrich feathers that swept their way in to adorn traditional menswear attire. Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers would collectively nod their heads at a ballroom ready ostrich feather skirt and top in contrasting candy pink and acid yellow as well as a more demure trouser suit with a paisley embroidered jacket. You could tell Dries had a riot of a time coming up with these articulate gender clashes and every time Van Noten commits himself to whatever contrast he is playing around with he manages to propose a modus operandi of dressing that is difficult to resist.The waves of "Bravo!" echoing in the stately L'Htel de Ville at the end proved that once again, he had a hit on his hands.

New year, new clothes. The AW13 collections are earlier than ever this season, as the second London Collections: Men begins on Monday ahead of Pitti, Milan and Paris, following the success of the capital's AW12 standalone schedule. As designers put the finishing touches to their collections; carry out castings, fittings and hair tests, we go on a series of studio visits to get a feel of what to expect...

Dazed Digital: What was the biggest challenge in putting the collection together?
Kit Neale: Christmas. It's very inconvenient.

DD: Favourite advice you've had from someone?
Kit Neale: 'Be the king of the world, not the king of Shoreditch'.

DD: Any tips for staying calm during fashion week?
Kit Neale: Drink lots of gin, neat.

DD: ...Or staying awake when there's so much work to do?
Kit Neale: Take lots of ginseng.

DD: What were the first pieces in the collection you designed?
Kit Neale: We always start with the prints. We do some sketches of designs, but they're often dropped. When we get the fabrics back and we start from scratch.

DD: What are you most proud of?
Kit Neale:Getting it done.

DD: What about the soundtrack?
Kit Neale:It's a clash between The Fall and Stravinsky's 'Rite of Spring'.

DD: What other shows are you looking forward to seeing?
Kit Neale: MAN, a very biased choice as I'm in the Fashion East bosom but it's always a highlight! Sadly, it clashes with my presentation so I won't make it. I can't wait to see what Craig Green presents, I love his work.

DD: What's your favourite look on a man?
Kit Neale: His own look, not one dictated for him.

DD: Who embodies the spirit of your collection?
Kit Neale: Michael Clark is this season's muse.

DD: Sum up AW13 in three words…
Kit Neale: Greasy, muppets, trippy.

DD: What difference does fashion make?
Kit Neale: It makes some people look good and others not so, but as long as they feel good and are happy, we've done our jobs. It contributes a great deal to the economy but apart from that, it's really not that important, is it?

New year, new clothes. The AW13 collections are earlier than ever this season, as the second London Collections: Men begins on Monday ahead of Pitti, Milan and Paris, following the success of the capital's AW12 standalone schedule. As designers put the finishing touches to their collections; carry out castings, fittings and hair tests, we go on a series of studio visits to get a feel of what to expect...

Dazed Digital: What was the biggest challenge in putting the collection together?
Lou Dalton: We had such a great response to the SS13 collection that I am constantly looking back over the collection and questioning whether it is as strong as, the challenge to put something out there that is as well received as before is a constant worry...

DD: Favourite advice you've had from someone?
Lou Dalton:My father always told me that I could have or achieve whatever I wanted if I kept my head down & worked hard. I pretty much live by this.

DD: Any tips for staying calm during fashion week?
Lou Dalton: Just write a to do list & stick with it, having all what you have to in front of you can be a little overwhelming however; to have in an order of sorts mentally keeps you on track of what you need to do.

DD: ...Or staying awake when there's so much work to do?
Lou Dalton: Coffee, water and lots of loud upbeat music, preferably a playlist by the fabulousness that is HORSE MEAT DISCO.

DD: What were the first pieces in the collection you designed?
Lou Dalton: The knitwear as this takes the longest to develop, I wanted to catch the rawness of the land in terms of terrain.

DD: What are you most proud of?
Lou Dalton: It's a little to early to say at the moment, I feel a strong connection to it all.

DD: What about the soundtrack?
Lou Dalton: I leave the music in the capable hands of of Jim Stanton, one part of Horse Meat Disco, his taste in music is sublime.

DD: What other shows are you looking forward to seeing?
Lou Dalton: Chris Shannon, James Long and Craig Green. Love the boys.

DD: What's your favourite look on a man?
Lou Dalton: A good shoe / boot, every man should invest in a good shoe, it can help carry the poorest of clothes.In terms of ideal man, I just want who ever where's the clothes to feel special & confident when wearing a bit of Lou Dalton.

DD: Sum up AW13 in three words...
Lou Dalton: Autumn Winter Thirteen.

DD: What difference does fashion make?
Lou Dalton: Fashion allows you to lose yourself, to be creative, to inspire to be inspired. It makes the world are far more colourful and exciting place to be...

Last year, when Dazed Digital spoke to the photographer/curator Laurence Von Thomaswho was releasing the second book of photographs from his blog If You Leave-the blog had little more than 3,000 followers. A year later, the numbers have hit 100,000, and Von Thomas is back in London to launch his third and final book - with a selection of the best images from 95 global contributors.

TheIf You Leaveblog started in 2009 as a platform for young photographers to submit their best work. The name, If You Leave, is inspired by three words Von Thomas scribbled down on a piece of napkin, and seems to have consequently become an apt guideline for the stream of submitted photographs, as they incorporate similar themes and aesthetics drawn from the title. Loneliness, vast landscapes, distance and intense expression have all been inevitably present on If You Leave over the years.

Dazed Digital: Tell us a bit more about this year’s selection. How is it different from previous books?


Laurence Von Thomas:I've learnt to always believe what my mom says is true when it comes to intuitive exploits... last year's selection was "more positive" than the first... she hasn't seen the new book yet. This said.. thank fuck there's no more comment box or she'd retort with a full blown Baudrillardian essay about colours and frequential energy.



DD: Can you list a couple of words or phrases that would characterise the selection?


Laurence Von Thomas:I'll leave that up to personal interpretation, but I would like to try and define the style of If You Leave, since it has often been asked and I never felt able to accurately respond. Me and Berlin-based photographer Lena Grass spoke about this during the summer and we felt there was a definite style/subculture going on and that maybe it was time to create some sort of manifesto and then give it an eccentric name... alas, in the absence of this glorious pamphlet, I think the term neo-romanticism might come close, since a lot of the imagery seems to relate to many of the characteristics of Romanticism in terms of mood, composition, theme or even technique. Turner and Friedrich return frequently as a source of inspiration.



DD: With so many submissions, is your selection just instinct based? Are there any guidelines?
Laurence Von Thomas:

There are no guidelines. I prefer it this way. My selection is not based on objective parameters, so it wouldn't make sense to dictate any.



DD: Do you know how many submissions you had overall?


Laurence Von Thomas:I had to look it up, but it seems over 4000 since the start of the blog, though I would say 1/3 of these are images I invited.



DD: I can’t help but notice there are a lot of soft coloured images of women in a certain type of mood. Do you think that is a natural reaction to the theme and title of the blog?


Laurence Von Thomas:Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that, in general, women like to explore the visual in a different way (and at a different pace) than men. I think a lot of the photographs you refer to are in fact self portraits or images of close friends serving as study objects.



DD: Can you pick a song that would suitIf You Leave Vol III?


Laurence Von Thomas:Today it would be 'One more cup of coffee' (the White Stripes version). 

But over the last 2 years I've been putting together a playlist for each book launch. The list is a collection made out tracks from Spotify playlists by If You Leave photographers, so in a sense you could say it's the soundtrack to the book. 

Here's one for Volume III (though it seems to only show the first 30 tracks).




DD: You started If You Leave in 2009 on both Flickr and Tumblr. Have you sensed some kind of retreat from the Flickr community in general? Are artists moving to their own blogs, tumblrs, websites?


Laurence Von Thomas:Flickr has most definitely suffered some fall-back since Tumblr has boomed. For me personally, they have their individual qualities... Flickr still has many groups, is very useful as an archive and feels less curated, blogs work better chronologically or as a diary and a website still works well as a showcase.



DD: You mentioned this would be "the third and final instalment of If You Leave". Does that mean this is the last book for If You Leave? What’s next for the blog?


Laurence Von Thomas: I don't want to give the impression I'm milking it. I've been exploring the aesthetic you've come to expect of If You Leave for almost 4 years now, and while I still really enjoy it, it feels like it is time for something new. The blog will still run on and a few 'established' galleries, and more recently museums have been showing an increasing interest in the blog, but none of this will happen before the next season. Maybe we'll put on some sort of retrospective in combination with new images.

DD: 

Do you think If You Leave has influenced your personal photography? Or vice versa?


Laurence Von Thomas:Undeniably yes and yes.


DD: Any future projects you’ve been working on?


Laurence Von Thomas: I've been working withArthur-Frank, the publisher of If You Leave, and we have two magazines in the pipeline. One is purely visual reference, based on a pop-up project I ran during the summer. The second one is a heavily content-based concept. That’s all I can say for now! Maybe by this time next year I will publish some of my own work, take it on the road and hopefully combine it with a film project I've been working on for ages.

Books are available to pre-order online exclusively viaif-you-leave.tumblr.comand will hit London and UK stores by December 16th


cover image Matthew Lief Anderson