Tag: Luxury

RYAT – Owl

In the February Issue of Dazed & Confused, Los Angeles-based producer RYAT enlisted as part of our 'University of Yorke' series featuring 14 electronic producers who posed their personal questions to our coverstar, Radiohead and Atoms For Peace frontman Thom Yorke.

Having made first impressions by landing on Flying Lotus' illustrious Brainfeeder label, RYAT makes gritty avant-garde beats as can be heard in the exclusive premiere of the new video for her track 'Owl' (above). Experimenting with classical and cinematic sounds with unexpected time signatures, her leftfield approach to music means merging her own processed vocals to create intense and abstract artforms. The video for the track 'Owl' is taken from her album 'Totem' where every track was a representation of a different spirit animal. Currently, she's embarking on a film project called 'Light Soldier', an avant-garde short featuring Angel Deradoorain (Dirty Projectors) and Gonjasufi where the score will form her next LP.

Check out her contribution to The University of Yorke HERE.

The Latest Appointments: Christie’s, Richemont & Ferrari

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Nicolas Ghesquire and Balenciaga will part ways at the end of November (Image: Giovanni Giannoni, WWD / Cond Nast / Corbis)

The Latest Appointments at Tom Ford, Walpole, Alberta Ferretti, Richemont, Orient-Express & Vertu, with exits at Balenciaga, Gilt Groupe, Azzaro & Cacharel

After 15 years with PPR, Nicolas Ghesquire and Balenciaga have reached a “joint decision to end their working relationship,” effective Nov. 30. CEO Isabelle Guichot told WWD a successor would be named “as soon as we’re ready,” and that the brand already has a short list of candidates. Over the weekend Christopher Kane was rumoured to take the top spot, something he has since denied to WWD.

Over at Azzaro, creative director Mathilde Castello Branco has stepped down from her role after just over a year. “The House of Azzaro and Mathilde Castello Branco are moving forward in different directions,” explained a statement from the brand. “Azzaro will shortly be announcing her successor.”

At Cacharel, CEO Pascal d’Halluin has confirmed his exit, also after less than one year in the role. According to WWD, the executive is leaving by mutual agreement with the French label’s founder and president Jean Bousquet following his trial period.

Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, chairman of Ferrari, has resigned his position as chairman of Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori, Europe’s first private operator of high-speed trains. “My growing professional commitments force me to step back now that the company is fully operational,” Montezemolo explained to Reuters. “I will continue to contribute to the success of this company, as shareholder and board member.”

Finally Gilt Group’s board and co-founder Kevin Ryan have “agreed about two months ago that Ryan should step aside in favour of a new CEO with strong operations and e-commerce skills.” The to-be-named replacement will be the company’s third CEO in two years, and is expected to steer the eventual launch of an IPO.

Marc Spiegler, Director, Art Basel

Marc Spiegler has been appointed to oversee Art Basel events in Basel, Switzerland; Miami Beach, Florida & Hong Kong, as the organisation re-arranges its leadership team. Mr. Spiegler will chair a four-member executive committee including a director of new initiatives, director Asia, and a director of resources and finance who will be named in the near future.

Source: Gallerist

Kamel Ouadi, Managing Director, Christie’s

Kamel Ouadi has joined famed auction house Christie’s as international managing director. Mr. Ouadi most recently served at Louis Vuitton as chief digital officer/chief creative officer, where he was responsible for the conception and launch of NOWNESS.com

Source: LinkedIn

Jean -Guillaume Prats, CEO, Estates & Wines

Jean-Guillaume Prats will join LVMH-owned Estates & Wines effective February 2013. Mr. Prats will be based in Paris, and will be a board member of the LVMH Comit Oprationnel. Since 2011, Prats has been chairman of the board of Domaines Reybier and Chteau Cos d’Estournel.

Source: Decanter

Eddy Cue, Board, Ferrari

Eddy Cue, Apple’s SVP Internet software and services has joined the board of Ferrari. Mr. Cue currently oversees the iTunes Store, the App Store and the iBookstore, as well as Siri, Maps, iAd and Apple’s iCloud services.

Source: New Car Net

Christophe de Pous, CEO, Gucci North America

Effective January 1, Christophe de Pous will assume responsibility for Gucci North America. Mr. De Pous has served as president and CEO of Gucci Japan since September 2009, and replaces Lauren Lendrum, who left the position in April.

Source: Styleite

Cristina Egal, Managing Director, Lorenz Bumer

Cristina Egal has been named the first managing director of Lorenz Bumer, reporting to Bumer, the president, founder and creative force behind the brand. Most recently, Ms. Egal operated an eponymous communications agency and boasted such clients as BNP Paribas, Sodexo, Servair and Fondation Claude Pompidou.

Source: Fashion Snoops

John Scott, CEO, Orient-Express

John Scott will become president and CEO of Orient-Express hotels, after serving as CEO of Rosewood Hotels & Resorts for over eight years. He replaces Paul White, the former president and CEO of Orient-Express Hotels, who resigned from the company and from the Board last year.

Source: Travel Mole

Natalie Ratabesi, Creative Director, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti will hand over the creative direction of the Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti collection to Natalie Ratabesi, who most recently served as senior creative director at Ralph Lauren. The British designer and graduate from Central Saint Martins College will make her debut for the brand with the autumn/winter 2013 collection.

Source: Fashion United

Bernard Fornas, Richard Lepeu, Co-CEOs, Richemont

Richemont has appointed two longstanding employees as joint chief executives, in a bid to help founder and controlling shareholder Johann Rupert steer the luxury goods group through a period of slowing sales growth in its important Asian markets. Cartier chief Bernard Fornas and deputy chief executive Richard Lepeu will take over from Rupert as CEO in April 2013.

Source: Reuters

Eva Taub, CEO, Robert Clergerie

Robert Clergerie has appointed Eva Taub as CEO, following tenure as head of Christian Dior Couture’s leather division at LVMH. The Stanford and Harvard Business School alum previously launched Isotoner in Europe, prior to which she served as a Merrill Lynch financial advisor in New York and Hong Kong.

Source: Fashion Week Daily

Jerome Cheung, CEO Asia Pacific, Tom Ford

Former Gucci Group executive Jerome Cheung, has been named to succeed Regina Lam as chief executive officer at Tom Ford, for the Asia-Pacific area. The position is based in Hong Kong and Cheung will be reporting to Tom Mendenhall, vice president and chief operating officer (COO) of the company since 2006.

Source: Fashion Mag

Anssi Vanjoki, Chairman, Vertu

Luxury phone maker Vertu has selected long-time Nokia executive Anssi Vanjoki as its non-executive chairman following an ownership change. Vanjoki, who spent 20 years at Nokia in various executive positions, left the Finnish cell phone maker in 2010 after the board appointed Stephen Elop as the next chief executive.

Source: Reuters

Michael Ward, Jonathan Heilbron, Board, Walpole

UK luxury brand trade body, Walpole, has announced the appointment of Michael Ward, managing director of Harrods, and Jonathan Heilbron, CEO of Thomas Pink, to its board of directors. Prior to joining the board, both Ward and Heilbron have been long-time supporters of Walpole, as Walpole Brands of Tomorrow mentors and regular speakers.

Source: Fashion United


For more in the series of The Latest Appointments, please see our most recent editions as follows:

- The Latest Appointments: PPR, Cadillac & Baccarat
- The Latest Appointments: Mulberry, DVF & Ralph Lauren
- The Latest Appointments: Burberry, Coty & Cond Nast

Les Indiscrets de Joséphine, creativity and style

Discover this month, Les Indiscrets de Joséphine. Born from the passion of a talented artist, she gives a second life to outdated furniture by revamping its look. Style remains but definitely the artist...

Montblanc, tribute to Albert Einstein.

This year starts well for Montblanc. In deed, the luxury instrument company is launching a very special limited edition called the Montblanc Albert Einstein Limited edition. Relativity? Not really, just pure passion. There...

Fashion Flashback: The Best Avant-garde Moments in Fashion History

FashionTV gives you a look at three of the most memorable Avant-garde fashion moments in history. Creative fashion visions, extravagant inspirations, and models that truly put on a show are all included…

All fashion shows are very similar to each other. They generally begin with music to set the mood, then the first face emerges leading other stunning models in a parade on the catwalk, and finally the designer appears waving to an applauding audience. With such similar routines, many fashion shows don’t manage to leave a mark on the crowd, while some of them do it big time.

FashionTV presents you with three of the best Avant-garde runway shows of the past decade. As part of our 15-year anniversary celebration we are taking you front row and back in time to relive those extravagant and unforgettable fashion moments.

John Galliano – Spring 1997

Top designer John Galliano has had countless Avant-garde designs go down the runway during his outstanding career. However, his Spring 1997 show was a spectacle that beat them all; the show included a rope, two chairs, and lots of room for the models to flirt with the crowd. The dresses and suits he designed were inspired by tribal and baroque motifs. This playful and ultra-innovative show was refreshing and of exceptional standards.

Nearly twenty years after the show’s debut, we can honestly say that Galliano is one of the most sophisticated and talented designers the world has ever seen. His designs were, and still are, innovative, creative, and memorable.

Alexander McQueen – Fall 2003

The late Alexander McQueen is responsible for some of the most extravagant and outstandingly Avant-garde moments in the fashion industry. For his fall 2003 collection, the designer took the crowd on a magnificent journey of far-east inspirations and creative additions of graphic and modern art.

The collection displayed unforgettable hats, unique dresses, and a brilliant runway design that marked the show an unforgettable moment in fashion history.

Jean Charles de Castelbajac

Although he is less known than the first two designers on our list, Jean Charles de Castelbajac has also landed a spot in the making of fashion history with a mesmerizing Avant-garde show in 1998. Printed floor-length gowns, along with sexy jackets, and one overly dramatic black dress were just some of de Castelbajac’s extravagant designs.

Long Live The New Flesh

Artist Jack Brindley with curator Tim Dixon are 'Open File'. The curatorial duo present a line-up of new and established artists at the ICA in the first of a triptych of performances and screenings. The events reflect what it is to curate in an increasingly virtual age and in a time where 'digitalization and the virtualisation of space implies a crucial shift where the human scale of industry and society have disappeared, and therefore social products are no longer manipulated totally materially'. Linking the argument to the human body, evolution of human interaction, design and object function, 'Long Live the New Flesh' poses questions about the boundaries and confluence between body and technology. Benedict Drew and John Gerrard feature in the one off event that brings together emerging and established practitioners in an evening of live bodies and digital image.

Here David Burrows from collective Plastique Fantastique answers some questions on 'the new flesh' and their performance that will 'summon the Neuropatheme'...

Dazed Digital: 
Are there any references that specifically tie in?
David Burrows: Texts, YouTube films, references include the ideas of Thomas Metzinger, a philosopher who has been working with neuroscientists and who wrote the ‘Ego Tunnel’. Metzinger argues thatno one has ever been a selfand suggests that this concept and the counter-intuitive discoveries of neuroscience will be difficult for people to accept but that the technologies produced as a result of these discoveries will effect everyday life and culture. As well as this we have been thinking about Norbert Weiner and his ideas about feedback loops, Scot Bakker’s novelNeuropathand other writing, Ray Brassier’s text on noise and genre, the animated film seriesghost in the shell, the propaganda of the virtual Buddhist terrorists and various myths of the extreme past and future.

DD: 
How would you describe the current human relationship to technology?
David Burrows: The nature of these relationships can only be guessed at. The development of various technologies will be seen as an evolutionary process in the future. Evolution can be thought of as realising many potential forms or organisations. In this, both chance and contingency may be involved in evolution. Most potential forms remain virtual, only some become actual.

If someone’s phone rings or pings and you reach to check your own phone, or you sense a vibration and think you have received a text but discover none has been sent or you check your phone when you see others doing so, your body has already been prepared for the next evolutionary stage.

As well as this, in the past, the relation of technology and humans has been understood through metaphors, fiction, images and myth, all of which can have an effect of the development of different technologies and everyday life. This is true today (an example being The Cloud) and will be so in the future.

DD: How does your work address this?
David Burrows: The work is a mytheme (or mysteme) for Neuropatheme (aka subject-without-experience, fux-the-shadow, otalP-the-empty-cave). Neuropatheme processes affects as information. Neuropatheme when fully plugged in realises that Neuropatheme is a sequence of processes and connections (exactly the same as being unplugged). Neuropatheme, feeling everything and nothing, is free of having to produce meaning and experiments with producing different feedback loops.


DD: 
How has thinking, theory and practice developed to address emergent technologies?
David Burrows: In diverse ways but always in part as imaginary, fiction or myth.

DD: 
How do you think art and the art world is adapting?
David Burrows: In the 60s and 70s, artists now called conceptual artists or associated with expanded art practice or expanded cinema where seen as radical but today they might be seen as pioneers and promoters of new and relatively available technology (fax machines, video, cheap air flights, Xerox, telephones, TV monitors) which transformed the world, commerce, leisure and culture. In the future, the same observation will probably be made about many of today’s artists.



DD: Most prescient and predictive artist/writer?
David Burrows: Nick Land and Sadie Plant

DD: 

What are the dangers with our current mode of technological interaction?
David Burrows: Narcissism



Tortured Souls

“Is this a fashion show or a funeral?” someone whispered into my ear on the first day of shows. But surprisingly, by the last day of LC:M a new kind of darkness emerged on the runway when designers sent out their own unusual breed of monsters and vampires. Of course there was a twist -Katie Eary's vampires weren’t concealed in black but rather covered in fuchsia flower prints, whilst Shaun Samson's monsters looked as though they had been taken from an American ice hockey team.

“Horror is something I am constantly obsessed with,” screamed Katie Eary backstage as her fang-wearing models walked past her. “I started by looking at eighteenth century paintings of banquets,” she continued. “I was looking at the food actually and then I thought what if there were bodies amongst it – this idea of eighteenth century gore.” This season, her prints did have an almost gore-like quality to them, particularly in the way her images were layered over each other. Flowers and lobsters were digitally manipulated in deep pinks, blacks and blues – translating the painterly quality of the eighteenth century images she referenced. Models appeared wearing gold chocker neck pieces and pointy fangs, allowing Eary to craft her own hybrid of streetwear vampire.

Christopher Kane also paid homage to the icons of horror in his menswear presentation. Dracula and Frankenstein both appeared on printed t-shirts and on velvet slippers, whilst his moody colour palette of midnight blues, blacks and deep purples were an nod to the darkness genre itself. Kane's use of fur took reference from werewolves and appeared on shirt collars and evening jackets.

For Shaun Samson, fur was also used as a reference to monsters in his streetwear-heavy collection. Models entered the runway wearing shabby fur earmuffs and ice hockey jumpers - Samson calling them his own “ice monsters.” Backstage, he claimed another important reference this season was camping - “For some reason, I always think that when you go camping you feel like you're in your pyjamas. There are monsters out in the woods and the only way you can protect yourself from the monsters is to say a prayer to God.”

Although Matthew Miller didn't claim that vampires or monsters were on his mind when designing his autumn / winter 13' collection, there was certainly a moody element this season. On the runway, his models appeared in uniform. Each with two of their fingers painted red, something Miller claimed was “a reference to anarchism,” but could have been taken from a modern horror film. The slogan 'Born to Fail' was printed in red on his garments, his “response to being fucked over by Generation X.”

Alternative Fashion Week: It’s All About Fashion

They may not be as popular as Marc Jacobs, Jean-Paul Gaultier or Vivienne Westwood yet, but many would say they are not less talented. Alternative Arts present East London's Alternative Fashion Week! Alternative Fashion Week features new designers, fresh models and innovative designs during a six-day fashion celebration.

Each season, Paris, Milan, New York and London are host to a major international fashion week, presenting the latest by top designers such as Dior, Givenchy, Versace and many others. For a new designer, showing at one of these major fashion weeks can be a long and frustrating road. As for the public, it is nearly impossible to get a front row seat at the major shows, many of which are reserved for celebrities, first class journalists, models and other designers.

Once a year, East London hosts an extravagant fashion event that abandons the strict hierarchy that governs the major fashion weeks, and gives new fashion designers a chance to rise.

Alternative Fashion Week strives to guarantee availability for everyone. Designers don't have to pay to present their collection, admission is free for the runway shows and even the models are volunteers who take a free six-week crash course in modeling before they walk the runway. The refreshing fashion week is a six-day event sponsored by Alternative Arts. According to their website, the fashion week is a great opportunity for new fashion designers to glow.

14 different designers present on each day of the fashion week. Those talented designers are chosen from hundreds of applications.

Eco Friendly Fashion

This year, the Alternative Fashion Week's program includes designers from UK, Italy, Spain, Norway as well as from Sri-Lanka and Uruguay. New brands like Majo Rey, Stella & Dot, Didou Boutique and Eliza Joan are just some of the fashion designers presenting.

At Alternative Fashion Week, both designers and producers put emphasis on environmental awareness. Recycled textiles and eco friendly industrial aspects are at the heart of many new collections.

New Designers, New Models, Lots of Shopping

Apart from the chance to possibly discover the next Galliano, new fresh face beautiful models can get their start at Alternative Fashion Week.

Unlike Paris or New York Fashion Week, designer items can be purchased once the show is over. London-style fashion, cutting-edge accessories, and shopping make Alternative Fashion Week an experience that’s worth having.

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