Tag: Luxury
Sandwich boreds
As well as being a self-employed writer, I’m now also a freelance usher at one of London’s most esteemed cultural hotspots. It’s not a bad gig – free entry to all the events when I’m not working, which is quite a lot of the time. Even though I need the money, I find it difficult to accept any more work than the minimum required to prevent myself from starving. That’s because we earn just above minimum wage, and while a lot of people’s answer to low wages is to work more hours, my attitude is to work less. That way, there are fewer hours in which I feel like I’m being taken for a ride.
The staff at the cultural place are mostly aspiring film makers and actors, which means I’m witnessing heartbreak and borderline mental illness every time I clock in. There’s one guy here, Tommy, who works an eighty hour week, stretching his life between a sandwich chain and the relative comfort of the cultural place. He’s selling himself to these jobs so he can buy a camera to make a film. And he’s developing a twitch.
Tommy laughs manically at the smallest things now. Just last week I speculated that maybe he was losing his mind a little because he was shaking his head and talking to himself in a Loony Toons voice as he poured some wine into a glass, but all he did was laugh hysterically, either in recognition or denial, I couldn’t tell. The only girls he dates now are customers, but because he works so much, all he does is invite his potential future wives to the cultural place to go see something on their own while he’s bartending.
On one of my many days off recently, I caught up with a former member of staff at Pret A Manger who was fired for forming a union. Andrej Stopa is a kind of steam-punk Braveheart turned union organiser from the Czech Republic. He was protesting outside the St Pancras station branch of Pret with a banner, a megaphone, a bandanna, a pair of Cyberdog trousers and a pair of aviator shades. But before being moved on by the police, Andrej and a small band of activists were demanding not just that Pret buck their ideas up and stop firing union organisers, but also that Andrej be reinstated.
“Pret A Manger! Reinstate Andrej!” they chanted. I couldn’t understand why Andrej, a finance student at London South Bank University, would want to go back there, so I asked him. And what he said made him seem selfless and kind of heroic.
“I want to keep organising the staff against the bad treatment,” he said. “I don’t care if they treat me so badly. But I really cannot stand when they also treat the other people as bad as they treated me. There were five of us, then our numbers started increasing, but after I was fired they intimidated the staff. So the activity is very low right now.”
One of the other founding members of the Pret union has since been hounded out. But Andrej says regardless of whether he gets his job back, his goal is to get Pret to pay the London living wage of 8.55 an hour to its all staff in the capital.
The living wage is a noble and essential cause. Being able to survive and feed your family, or even save up for a camera, without getting another soul sucking job, is no joke. But as this thunderous tract points out, it’s not as though low wages are the only blight of the contemporary workplace.
While I recommend reading the whole thing, in particular it highlights the alarming methods of control used by large companies in the catering and service sectors. In this instance, Pret, which is at the forefront of getting inside the heads of its staff. At Pret, and no doubt other multinational restaurant chains, not only are workers’ outer actions controlled by the company – the tasks they agree to do for their wages – so are their emotional responses to those tasks. So they don’t just have to make coffee and operate a till, they have to be super happy and enthused while they’re doing it. While I don’t like sweeping floors, I object more to being told to look happy while I’m doing it.
The theoretical term for this is ‘affective labour’, which was given a sickeningly positive reception when Pret was surveyed by a New York Times business correspondent last year. So for example, Pret’s worker bees are disciplined for not smiling enough, or for not creating the ‘Pret Buzz’. And it’s not just an individual worker who suffers, but the whole ‘team’ is penalised for one person failing to be sufficiently ecstatic.
While I admire people like Andrej, global capitalism has proven itself to be pretty much immune to trade unions. It’s just not a fair fight any more. It’s like a team of well-organised rat catchers armed with traps and mallets trying to stop a computer virus. They’re operating on totally different playing fields. One is old and slow, a bi-product of the mechanical age which gets around on foot, whose threats are physical, obstructive and primitive. The other is a complex, nebulous, shape-shifting entity with access to tax havens, devious lawyers, political lobbyists and unlimited reserves of cheap labour from around the world.
What makes this worse is that big trade unions are essentially political structures not unlike a lot of the companies they rile against, whose leaders earn ten times as much as their members. No wonder membership is declining. Besides their dwindling influence and the lack of unity in a global temporary workforce, big old unions just don’t appeal to people who grew up with Tony Blair as a Labour prime minister. Unions embody a 20th Century form of power which struggle see, let alone connect with the thing it’s trying to hit. Even if their interests are aligned, to the young worker toiling in a sandwich chain, big unions are as antiquated and removed from their experience as coal mines and steelworks. Which is why I’m so encouraged by Andrej’s campaign, even if he’s on a hiding to nothing.
Just before I joined, there were rumblings of forming a union at the cultural place, to demand better pay. Again, the London living wage was mooted. While you expect a company like Pret to act like a plantation owner, you’d think there would be more enthusiasm for the living wage in a firm whose director of operations is regularly seen swanning around in a Ken Loach t-shirt. But my friends at the cultural place were just as afraid of losing their jobs to actually form a union as the Prey guys, so they settled for a 20p an hour pay rise from head office, which means we’re still earning less than the guys who serve sandwiches.
Brassica – Modern Magic
Having made an impressivemixfor us last year, the ever-adventurous electronica producer Brassica is back with his new kaleidoscopic 'Temple Fortune' EP on London-based label Civil Music. The quirky lo-fi video for the cosmic single 'Modern Magic', as premiered on Dazed, is atiny budget affair featuring Joe Ryan of Fair Ohs on the drums (as heard in the original track), with a little cameo from Brassica at the end. Here we speak to Brassica about the making of the retro video, and his nods to Jesus Christ Superstar and bad shows at Butlins...
Dazed Digital: How did the idea for the video come about and have you worked with Joe from Fair Ohs before?
Brassica: The video features a longtime friend Joe Ryan, who now plays in Fair Ohs. He played the actual drum parts within the song, so when I met with video maker Phil Whitby, he suggested creating something based around a drum tuition video. As a big fan of 80s VHS musician's tutorials like 'Star Licks Master Series', my mind kinda exploded. Phil and I conversed extensively on ways to elaborate on the theme. The result is a video which explores the blurring of memory, persona, time and space through an essentially ancient musical instrument.
DD: Can you tell us a little about the track?
Brassica: The track is a nod towards (particularly 70s) musical theatre and the kind of music you might expect to hear in War of Worlds or Jesus Christ Superstar. There's a certain magic in sitting slightly too close to a live theatre band that I really dig, whether an expensive West End show or a bad pantomime at Butlins.
DD: What's the story behind the new EP?
Brassica: Modern Magic is one of four tracks from the Temple Fortune EP. The EP is a small selection of music created over a year or so of writing, plus an old banger for good measure.
Capracara's version of Lydden Circuit is a monument. Jonny has an individual approach to making club records that's as warm and sincere as his personality. This is why I asked him to provide the voiceover for the video - it sets a friendly tone for the video in a way I dreamt of.
Fashion Roundup: New York Fashion Week History Lesson and Kristen Stewart Opens Up For British Vogue
New York Fashion Week opens today! Which, of course, is a great opportunity to review the history of this prestigious event. NY Fashion Week was the very first Fashion Week ever, before Paris or Milan, way back in 1943. And it was called ‘Press Week’. Next year will be the 20th Anniversary for New York Fashion Week. It’s exciting to be part of fashion history, isn’t it? (Fashionetc)
Kristen Stewart fronts the cover of British Vogue’s October issue. The desirable actress has fallen prey to a media storm over the past month, due to the events surrounding her breakup from Twilight co-star and longtime boyfriend, Robert Pattinson. Stewart opens up about her relationships, fame and what she thinks of her public image. (Vogue UK)
Stella McCartney leads the British Fashion Awards 2012 with three nominations. McCartney is nominated for Best Designer, Best Fashion Brand and Best Red Carpet Award. In the Models category, FashionTV’s Model of the Week models Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn, will go head to head for the prize. (Telegraph)
American fashion stylist and designer, Rachel Zoe, seems to be taking a step back with her clothing line. The Bravo TV star has been rumored to take her name off the list of London Fashion Week, since her clothing line has reportedly been a disappointment in several American department stores. (Huffington Post)
After conquering Vogue Italia in August, Lana Del Rey lands the cover of Vogue Australia’s October issue. While the rest of us are gearing up for the Fall season, the singer was styled in clothing for Spring! (Styleite)
Closing our list of fashion highlights for this week is Taylor Swift’s new video, which was released this week and is getting tons of views each day. It has already neared five million views. In the video, Swift introduces several outfit changes, from ridiculous pjs to a great floral dress at the end. Take a look:
William S. Burroughs’s Shot Gun Paintings
William S. Burroughs is cemented in the popular imagination as the archetypal literary outlaw, the third part of a holy trinity of Beats; father to Ginsberg’s son and Kerouac’s ghost. Novels including Junkie, Queer and Naked Lunch pioneered a new and uniquely American literary form, shamanistic and paranoid, sanctifying the outsider. But Burroughs’ experiments in form and creative process extended beyond writing into film, sound and the visual arts, and he spent much of his later years in Kansas making paintings. A selection of those works can be seen in All out of time and into space at October Gallery, London.
In advance of the opening I caught up with Kathelin Gray, founder of the Theater of all Possibilities and a close friend of Burroughs, to talk about the man, his paintings, and how the mythology surrounding the most American of artists might impede our appreciation of his work.
Burroughs is best known here as a writer, so I wonder if you could expand on the relationship between his literary and painterly practice.
Burroughs had associated with artists through the forties and fifties, the era of Abstract Expressionism and Action Painting. He was very influenced by process art, recombinant art, by art that incorporated incorporating text into paintings, and he was always concerned with the relationship between word and image. Burroughs thought in images, in symbols, and that’s visible in both his writing and his painting.
How influential was Brion Gysin on Burroughs’ work as a visual artist?
Gysin and Burroughs began to collaborate in Paris in 1959, when they were living together in the Beat Hotel. Gysin had steeped himself in the cabbalistic traditions of North Africa and his work drew heavily on ritual and magic; that influenced Burroughs, who was more scientific in his approach. Gysin introduced Burroughs to the cut up too – he realised one day, when he was cutting through newspaper with an Exacto knife, that the strips could be recombined and the word sequences re-examined.
What was so attractive about the cut up technique to Burroughs?
He saw it as a means of undermining the power structures that govern the behaviour of the populous. Burroughs was constantly trying to get at the way that things are programmed beneath the surface. The cut-up technique was one of the tools by which he did this, but not the only one.
What were the other tools, the other processes? With respect to the paintings I’m thinking of those abstract compositions creating by taking a shotgun to a can of spray paint…
Well I think Burroughs and Gysin met [auto-destructive artist] Gustav Metzger at one of his early lectures at Cambridge. Metzger was fed up with the commodification of art and was trying to get back to the act, the essence of what’s done by the artist in the moment of creation. That was another influence.
But Burroughs didn’t start painting until late in his life?
Burroughs really began painting in 1987, in Kansas, the year after Gysin died. Burroughs was devastated by Gysin’s death – he was the only man he ever truly respected as a man and an artist. You know, Burroughs only really started writing after he killed his wife Joan [in a drunken and famously ill-advised game of William Tell], and I think that taking up painting represented another way of working through trauma.
What of the way that Burroughs is perceived now?
I’m really not keen on the Burroughs stereotype of him with the needle in his arm and the three-piece suit, because that’s not what he was.
You don’t think he deliberately cultivated that iconography?
He cultivated the iconography but not the stereotype. I wouldn’t say that he resented the stereotype – it’s just that it’s counterproductive when it comes to understanding his work.
He was always keen to dissociate himself from the Beat Generation, which hasn’t stopped him being lumped in with them by posterity. How did he consider his work, and that of Gysin, to be different from that of Kerouac, Ginsberg or Gregory Corso?
He was a close friend with Ginsberg, particularly, but he wasn’t like the Beats – he wasn’t a Buddhist, he wasn’t Zen, he didn’t like jazz, he wasn’t cool. Burroughs’ work was about deconstructing the hypnotic effect on human nature of the corporate world, the military-industrial complex, and the military-educational complex. He was extremely concerned by the ecological devastation of the planet, by terrorism, by the militarisation of society, and he deeply wanted to create tools that would allow the individual to think for themselves. That drove everything that he did.
Benjamin Eastham
NY Fashion Week Roundup: Celebrities Like Kelly Osbourne At New York Fashion Week And Google Glasses At Diane von Furstenberg
Google arrives at New York Fashion Week! While they didn’t exactly put on a show, they did team up with fashion icon Diane von Furstenberg, who rose to the challenge of presenting their new Google glasses, which debuted on her runway. Google co-founder Sergey Brin joined DVF in her runway lap after the show. Futuristic fashion? We don’t think so… Google Glasses might be launched to the public sooner than anticipated. (LA Times)
Fashion Week this season is all about social media, with private publishers peaking and flourishing as they provide an inside look to all the runways. The public is using Instagram, Twitter and Tumblr, but surprisingly Facebook seems to stay behind in immediate media events. Here are six bloggers you should follow to get an inside view to New York Fashion Week. (Mashable)
Men’s fashion takes center stage at New York Fashion Week. While menswear may sometimes seem like an afterthought at these events, this season big efforts have been made. Details magazine set up a space at Lincoln Center Public Library to host menswear shows, and GQ opened a pop-up menswear shop with Nordstrom. (Wall Street Journal Blog)
An 81-year-old model walked down the runway of Norisol Ferrari’s Spring 2013 collection on Monday (10.9). Carmen Dell’Orefice is a retired model, who also appeared in HBO’s documentary “About Face: The Supermodels, Then and Now”. In a youth-driven industry, Dell’Orefice says she’s proof of the nation’s general acceptance of the graying population. (Today)
Celebrity sightings at NYFW! Take a look at some behind the scenes photos from the celebrities themselves. Photos from- Kim Kardashian, Pharrell Williams, Solange Knowles, Anna Wintour, Victoria Beckham, Ivanka Trump and more. (Pop Sugar)
Closing our list of fashion highlights for this week, here’s an interesting video from New York Magazine- recording shoes from random fashion lovers just outside of NYFW shows. Take a look at some great designs:
Daniel Lopatin & Tim Hecker
The latest release from the Software Studios imprint is 'Instrumental Tourist', the collaborative LP of Brooklyn-based Oneohtrix Point Never and the Polaris Award-winning Tim Hecker, whose respective experiments have routinely teased at the boundaries of electronic music and the capacity for compositions to grow from decidedly non or anti-formalist beginnings. After being long-time fans of each others solo work, 'Instrumental Tourist' sees Hecker and Lopatin come together to not only explore the capacity for their music to find a common ground in a collaborative project and to push one another in the studio setting, but also to probe at the potential for ambient and drone music to delve deeper into new, unfamiliar sonic realms.
DazedDigital: What inspired you to work on a collaborative album together?
Oneohtrix Point Never:I approached Tim about collaborating with me for a series of 12"s that C. Spencer Yeh and I wanted to release on Software - bringing together electronic music producers working in a more or less improvisatory manner in the studio. The idea was partially inspired by my interest in Teo Macero and his sessions with Miles Davis' varying groups in the late '60s and early '70s. There is a dynamic between open ended jams and the logic of tape editing that I find really stimulating. I thought that Tim and I would be great in terms of both utilizing the studio as an instrument, but I also just had a hunch that we'd compliment each other well; like in a rhythm section, or the ways directors and DPs work together. Contrasting styles and struggles can often lead to fresh work and having admired Tim's solo stuff, I thought it was worth a shot.
Tim Hecker:I was deeply into Daniel's last recordReplicawhen he suggested the project. I thought it made sense on a bunch of levels. Instead of doing a collaboration which brings together the 'inert' digital composer with a 'lively' or 'physical' instrumentalist to spray fresh life on the mouse clicking tedium, I thought some other route was better and this project made sense. Anyways, the point of a collaborative effort shouldn't be visualizing a clear path in advance. I wasn't sure how it would work out, and was interested in how it might take shape - which was part of the pleasure.
DD: Your LPs are stylized regarding around "digital garbage", and the ambiguous evocations of drone and ambient music. How do you feel your respective aesthetics married on the LP?
Oneohtrix Point Never:I think we both do a fair amount of melodic manipulation. There are some procedural things we do with garbage that lead to sounds suggesting classical forms, and upon discovering some of the specifics oh how that works respectively, we were able to work out a shared language.
Tim Hecker:From way too high of a vantage point it could be argued that we occupy similar terrain of music, but I think we both agree there's significant variance in terms of our interests and approaches in composing sound. I honestly wasn't interested in 'marrying' our aesthetics in a kind of linear additive sense, but rather evaporating the self into a project that is more than just you.
DD: Did you begin the project with a particular conceptual direction in mind as a duo?
Oneohtrix Point Never:I'm not sure how it emerged, but we pretty quickly got into this idea that we could paint an extended portrait of a sonic world that is filled with stock musical motifs and sounds in there most vulnerable states. Like the subconscious fears and desires of azither- what might that look like? There was a lot of conversation like that. But what you're hearing are very loose portrayals of that idea. It's more an anchor to stimulate, but then we really do end up just jamming off of each other in a way that isn't conceptually didactic.
Tim Hecker:We didn't cut a path in advance. It sort of took shape very quickly in a non-contrived, almost unconscious level through joking around and talking in the studio. It may not seem apparent from the music but our studio time was filled with laughs and rapid-fire banter that kind of helped to morph the approach as things continued over a couple of days.
DD: Technically, how did you approach the recording process? You're both known to process samples of acoustic instruments and analogue synths in your productions, so how did you work out enough of a variation between the two of you to feel you had technically distinct inputs into the sound of the project?
Tim Hecker:I didn't care for delineating any sort of distinct input. I enjoy dissolving myself into an ether of Daniel's solo lines. For example, mixing or adding reverb to one of Daniel's phrases for me constitutes creative input that is better than being sonically represented in an obvious way. I'm still obsessed with the effect of electronic instruments being re-amplified in real space and capturing those environments. We used a lot of room microphones that gave a greater depth to things.
DD: The album is presented as largely improvisational, with a sort of free-jazz spirit to it. How do you feel you worked towards more structured elements over a prolonged period of time with this ethos in mind?
Oneohtrix Point Never:It's less about free-jazz and more about an open, improvisatory approach and deep listening. You can easily link that to all sorts of 20th century musical practices. There's no need to compromise because there's no hardcore parameters set until we're dealing with edits or having some macro level discussion about which tunes work and which don't. There's formal aspects to both of our styles but I wouldn't say there is a formal aspect to this project. We usually agree on what sounds good, and when we don't its easy - we just ice it and move forward.
the–miumiu–london
"Let's begin at the beginning: I love Miuccia Prada.
I'd bend backwards/sideways/every way for her. I feel her. I love her observation, sensitivity, modernism; she's progressive with respect, taking it all in, playing with it. With humour, intelligence. She's my goal.
When I was invited to DJ as part of the-miumiu-london I was beyond myself. The event took over the Cafe Royal's beautiful and baroque surroundings for three days – I'd previously hung in a 40s club run there.
Across three floors there was The Club Lounge and Terrace, Conversation Room, Oyster Bar, The Restaurant, Cocktail Bar and Miu Miu shop/gallery.Nourishing the senses (and the mind) across architecture, food, aesthetics, conversation and sound, I like the fact that #themiumiu was a women's club, where men had to accompany as a guest – a clever reversal of archetype.But I wouldn't consciously call myself a feminist, I'm for equal rights, which was one of the themes in the Conversation Room I visited.
There were women from all walks of life with the odd male here and there. Discussion was of women role models, with Penny Martin and Shala Monroque leading. I'd have liked some more time to get real dirty with it, into the nitty gritty of deeper issues and diversity butI got my word in expressing my respect for Pina Bausch, inspired by her expression through various media as a pioneer for the invisible. The movement drawing on feelings and observation; the beauty and grace of the old age or a child, man or woman and all in-between. The joy, pain and delicacy of life all wrapped in a very beautiful uniform.
Afterwards, a friend and I took fancy to some simple pleasures, eating seafood in the surroundings of golden wall swirls and candlelight, and diving into champagne. The Miu Miu collection in the shop I knew off by heart, and I knew it'd speak to me.
Cleansed by the freshness of the sea fruit and taste of fine wine, I was ready to play. No rules, just musical passion for 3 hours. Stephen Jones came up to me saying 'I Only Have Eyes For You' was his favourite song ever. I think if Miuccia was there, she'd have had a dance.
I had a great evening and connected with my girlfriend. The eyes said it all: I want to go there again. But... all things must pass."
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Cara Delevingne Wins Model Of The Year, Alexa Chung Is British Style Icon, & Stella McCartney Takes Home Two Gongs!
The British Fashion Awards is undeniably the hottest night in the calendar, and last night's style-off proved just why the fashion-forward Brits are at the top of the game.
Tuesday, marked a yet another momentous evening in British fashion history, as Britain's leading ladies (and ahem, David Gandy) arrived at the red-carpet affair, to honor the greatest fashion talents the island has to offer. And sheesh, was it a night to remember! So... let’s take a look at who won what?
She’s beautiful, she’s stylish, and busy stealing the world’s hearts with her quirky sense of humour, and if thatwasn'tenough, FashionTV’s First Face runner-up, Cara Delevingne took home the award for Model of the Year.
And we have to say, itdidn'tcome as much of a surprise! The newly crowned Victoria’s Secret Angel dominated a total of 39 runway shows over the Spring 2013 fashion season, as well as scoring top modelling campaigns like Chanel and Burberry. And modelling aside, Delevingne is a born entertainer; her daily Twitter feeds alone are keeping the FashionTV office entertained and informed... move over BBC...aren'tthey your policies?!
Alex Chung Scores A Hat-trick
It’s the only award voted for by the British public, and 2012 marks the third year running that ardent fashion followers have ratified the urban-cool presenter and British Vogue contributor, Alex Chung, Style Icon status at the BFA’s.
This year there was barely a fashion week that went unseen without fashionista Ms Chung gracing the front row with her modish presence. And when she isn’t busy seeing or being seen, the British Fashion Council’s Style Ambassador is collaborating on collections, DJing, writing a style book, modelling, and being an all round style idol!
Mad For McCartney
With a slew of A-list guests arriving at the awards ceremony dressed in Stella McCartney, it was little wonder that the British fashion maven took home not one, but TWO awards at the BFA’s last night; British Designer of the Year, presented by Salma Hayek (who also wore McCartney), and Designer Brand Award.
“”You can just feel the energy of the people being so proud of being British and of being so ready to be the best at everything!” says Hayek.
McCartney’s contribution to the British Fashion industry continues to grow from strength to strength. This year alone, she has designed the Team GB Olympic kit, has dressed fashion royalty (literally) Kate Middleton, and seen her designs feature at many a Hollywood premiere. And we have no doubt, her sports-elegant designs will be gracing the red carpet at the upcoming Academy Awards too!
Other Big’uns!
Meanwhile, J.W Anderson scooped the award for Emerging Talent of the Year, Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton won Menswear Designer Award, Sophie Hulme wasrecognizedas top Emerging Talent for Accessories, Jonathan Saunders took the accolade as Emerging Talent for Menswear, Roksanda Ilincic was honored for her contribution to the Red Carpet, Erdem took the gong for New Establishment... and last but not least... the winner of the Outstanding Achievement Award is... Manolo Blahnik!
Sound’s to us like a good night all round! Congratulations to all the winners from FashionTV!
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