Appleton Estate 50 year old Jamaican Rum

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Reading Time: 2 minutes

In order to celebrate the 50 years of Jamaican independence, Appleton Estate launched this summer a very special limited edition of an old Rum. Discover here the Appleton Estate 50 Year Old Jamaica Independence Reserve. Encased in a hand crafted crystal decanter, only 800 bottles will be released making each £3,500 bottle a special addition to any drink connoisseur’s collection.

Appleton Estate 50 year old Jamaican Rum

Appleton Estate 50 Year Old Jamaica Independence Reserve is a hand blended and exceptionally smooth, deep mahogany sipping rum that will excite the most sophisticated of palates. Its powerful notes of oak, vanilla, cinnamon and maple resonate with a distinctive hint of orange peel – the hallmark of all Appleton Estate Jamaican Rums.

Appleton Estate 50 year old Jamaican Rum

he handcrafted crystal decanter denotes etchings inspired by Jamaica’s national symbols. The bottle comes with a commemorative booklet that outlines Jamaica’s march to Independence and the rum’s remarkable 50 year journey. See here a mood video revealing all the precious details of this great limited edition.

Here the tasting notes, for the connoisseur:

Appearance: Dark mahogany colour with rich coppery reflections and a very pronounced green ring of ageing

Bouquet: Powerful oak infused with rich vanilla and layered with cinnamon, maple and orange peel

Finish: Exceptionally smooth with a honeyed oak finish

Please check the dedicated website for this special edition:
http://www.appletonestate50.com 

Or you can browse the company website and discover the other elegant products they have:
http://www.appletonestate.com 

Rodin used to say that if you give time to time, time will offer you its best.
LA

 

Info sourced at Brand official press release. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. 

Chanel 5 new ad with Brad Pitt, disappointing.

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Reading Time: 4 minutes

Probably one of the most expected and viral campaigns of this fall: The new Chanel N.5 campaign with Brad Pitt. Chanel started in September a true teasing campaign that set fire to all people’s imagination. They took one of the most sexy man alive, Brad Pitt and associate the most feminine Fragrance ever: Chanel N.5. The result should be dazzling and finally…. disappointing.

Brad-Pitt-Chanel-5_fail

Ok, there was a great idea, to use a man into a women’s fragrance advertising. Daring, original and probably outstanding as all the feminine fragrance market follows the mainstreams. It is not the first time that Fragrance brands uses the opposite-sex into a fragrance ad. But it was more used for men’s fragrances. We all remember the Kate Moss ad for Obsession for men by Calvin Klein. This was probably one of the most subversive ads ever.. look to those eyes…

Calvin Klein Obsession for men

Here, we wonder why Chanel has chosen someone like Brad Pitt. What is the interest to show this man telling a story ? I am definitely part of the thousands of people disappointed with this lack of audacity by Chanel. All this money for nothing. We can even say more, they just followed this fall trends. Check it out this mood board with images from different brands on the Fall-Winter campaigns 2012:

Moodboard Fall Winter 2012

This fall, luxury brands like to have black and white scenes with men sitting or standing close to a wall. No escape? As we can see here above, Chanel writes its new ad into this Fall’s trends, so it is dated and what is dated gets outdated. Also we see a Brad Pitt old, almost dusty. Other brands had a more young and edgy imagery.

Then the part one of the reveal, shows a Brad Pitt alone, against a corner and saying different words without any sense really. His eyes are kind of empty, we do not see sparkles or desire. He looks more a kind of Lost in Translation… Out of 4 million views on Youtube, only 8,000 people liked it and more than 4,000 people disliked it… apparently I am not the only one.

If I am a woman, I do not want to see a man with that look in front of me. I would feel myself more a curse than a beloved one.

Then we got the reveal of part two. And here again it is very commercial, just a series of different images trying to link to a kind of trend. If you hide logos and Brand names, could be anyone. Could be Donna Karan, Estée Lauder, Dior or Avon. Could also be a Car brand advertising, or a coffee brand or anything…

Frankly, either I am getting old or Chanel did not succeed the bet of having a new outstanding advertising for Chanel 5. They were much more successful under Jacques Helleu era. There was real talent at that time. Here some of my preferred ones.

So here is a RED CARD for Chanel. In a Perfumery industry in which nobody wishes to take risks, Brands like Chanel should stand up for something rather than just stopping half way. Disappointing because we could imagine the potential of it.

The only positive and great thing, let’s try to end in a positive point, it is the INEVITABLE last word. It gives a sort of tension to the storyboard, even Brad Pitt’s eyes woke up.

Check the brand website to see more about it:
http://www.chanel.com

Inevitably, it will be unsuccessful. What do you think?
LA

 

Info sourced at the brand’s website and youtube channel. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. 

 

Digital IQ for Watch brands, by L2ThinkTank

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Reading Time: 3 minutes

Every year the L2ThinkTank company releases the new ranking of Digital IQ for brands. Here are the results of for the Watch and Jewelry industries. To remind you the methodology, L2ThinkTank takes in account Mobile, website and Social media for each brand and classifies them depending on a certain score from <70 to >140. Here is the scale:

<70: Feeble
investment does not match opportunities

Between 70 and 89: Challenged
Efforts are inconsistent and siloed accross platforms. Site lacks inspiration and utility.

Between 90 and 109: Average
Digital presence is functional yet predictable.

Between 110 and 139: Gifted
Brands are experimenting and innovating across site, mobile, and traditional and emerging social media platforms. Digital presence is strong, complementing brand image and larger marketing efforts.

 > 140: Genius
Digital competence is a point of competitive differentiation. Site experience is shoppable, searchable, shareable, and mobile-optimized. Social media is integrated across multiple platforms.

To start, here are the top 50 best companies in the Watch and Jewelry industry ranked according to the scale above.

As we can see many Swiss brands are high ranked like Tissot and Victorinox. Others, like Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe are still weak in the digital revolution. This revolution accelerated a lot thanks to the rise of Social Media. In deed the word of mouth and the recommendation topics turned to be online now. Here is the penetration of the major social networks in the Watch and Jewelry industry. Of course Facebook is the highest with a 96% of penetration. We are in the Facebook era anyway. But by looking closer, we can see for example the raise of Pinterest with a 55% of penetration rate. What Instagram never succeeded to do, Pinterest did it.

Another interesting diagram is the current implementation of mobile browsing for websites in the Watch and Jewelry industry. We can see that a large majority is still not Mobile adapted. Only 11% of websites have adopted technologies like the responsive design and only 32% have wap sites. We are here still talking about traditional desktop version websites. Let’s note a dramatic 6% that are even Mobile blocking, meaning they are impossible to browse via mobile. Most of the time it is because of flash animations and IOS.

Here is a diagram with the share of revenue in the Watch and Jewelry industry.

If you wish to learn more about the L2ThinkTank services, here is a video about it.

You can also connect to the company’s website:
http://www.l2thinktank.com 

So…. watch out!
LA

Info sourced at annual L2Thinktank segment report. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. 

Fragrance words, episode 8 with Diane Thalheimer-Krief

Reading Time: 7 minutes

Fragrance_words_episode_7

Fragrance words episode 8 features Diane Thalheimer-Krief. Please see below for the french version.

EPISODE 8: DIANE THALHEIMER-KRIEF (EN)

Diane Thalheimer-Krief has 20 years of experience in developing fragrances, international marketing, olfaction and evaluation. From her studies (CELSA, Economics, Olfaction), through her thesis on Perfumery (Study and Research on perfume plants) she dedicated her career with passion to give birth to beautiful creations. After several years of international marketing direction in a composition Laboratory, she created her company, REDBERRY in 2003. It is a company exclusively about services and consultancy dedicated to perfume. Her areas of expertise: Training, training tools, Perfumery gestures, Marketing (culture, trends and conferences), Brand Portfolio (DNA analysis and olfactory mapping) and Intranets.

THE FRAGRANCE MARKET IN 2012

Luxury Activist (LA): 2012 New launches, which are the fragrance launches that positively marked this year ?
Diane Thalheimer-Krief (DT):
Coco NoirJimmy ChooLa Petite robe noire by Guerlain, Martin Margiela and Bottega Venetta.

LA: According to you, which are the failed launches this year and why ?
DT: It is always very difficult to express negative opinions about a product. Indeed, the creation of a perfume uses a large team of different actors who often work with passion for many months. The result is not always at the height of their ambition … The clients are there to judge!

LA: In this 2012 fall, which are the brands or launches you are looking forward to ?
DT: Chanel 5 new communication with Brad Pitt, the new Repetto, Balenciaga, Manifesto YSL, Jardin Noir by Tom Ford and Prada Luna Rossa

FUTURE TRENDS

LA: Until 2015, you wish that the Fragrance industry becomes more… (up to you to complete the sentence)
DT: … More Premium and selective on its launches. More strict on its choices and olfactory developments. Less spokesperson in advertising, more true creations with real strong convictions, more daring and more quality. Final, less consumer tests that bring things to the lower common denominator in terms of originality (in order to please a large majority).

LA: Which new olfactory directions would you like to see in future creations ?
DT: Modernized Patchouli, incenses, balms and resins. A modernized chypre but not gustative. Female wood fragrances. Less Fruity fragrances. They tend to be all similar and for that we forget them very fast.

LA: According to you, which Fragrance Brands will take the lead in the future and why ?
DT: Niche brands for their audacity and creativity. The couture brands and the true luxury brands for the aspirational aspect and the customer’s highlight. Brands which will create a true universe with strong stories and magnificent products.

LA: Perfumery shops have a hard time trying to keep their clients who, like butterflies, flutter between different Chains, Department-stores or even Internet. According to you, which are the paths to be explored to improve customer loyalty ?
DT: Perfumery shops should develop the concept of “chapels” = mini-shops in shops, like at Le Printemps Haussmann, with high trained beauty advisors who can provide true recommendations based on a real knowledge of the perfumery industry. Other examples: Chanel Beauty boutique in Hong Kong, Editions Frederic Malle, Serge Lutens. I would also highlight the importance of CRM (eg: Mugler) and also of iPhone apps for customer profiling and the market trends. Final but not least, We must invest in the training of Beauty advisors in the perfumery.  Provide them a real culture of perfumery (clients are often more informed and cultivated thanks to blogs and articles that appeared in the press). Brands must invest heavily in TRAINING! This is the final link between the brand and the customer! We must give back enchantment to Fragrances and make customers dream.

Fragrance_words_episode_7

EPISODE 8: DIANE THALHEIMER-KRIEF (FR)

Diane Thalheimer-Krief possède 20 ans d’expérience en développement de parfums, marketing international, olfaction et évaluation. De ses études (CELSA, Sciences Economiques, Olfaction), en passant par sa thèse sur la Parfumerie (Etude et recherches sur les plantes à parfums) elle s’est dédiée avec passion à faire naitre des belles créations. Après plusieurs années de Direction Marketing international au sein d’un Laboratoire de composition, elle créa sa société, REDBERRY en 2003. C’est une société de service et de conseil exclusivement dédiée au Parfum. Ses domaines de compétence: La formation, les outils de formation, la gestuelle Parfum, Marketing (culture, tendances et conférences), Portefeuille de Marque (Analyse ADN et cartographie olfactive) et Site Intranets.

LE MARCHE DE LA PARFUMERIE EN 2012

Luxury Activist (LA) : Lancements 2012, quels parfums vous ont-ils positivement marqués cette année ?
Diane Thalheimer-Krief (DT) : Coco NoirJimmy ChooLa Petite robe noire de Guerlain, Martin Margiela et Bottega Venetta.

LA : A votre avis, quels sont les “flops” de l’année ? Et pourquoi ?
DT : Il est toujours très délicat d’exprimer des opinions négatives sur un produit. En effet, la création d’un parfum fait appel à une grande équipe d’acteurs différents qui travaillent le plus souvent avec passion pendant de longs mois. Le résultat n’est pas toujours à la hauteur de leur ambition… Les clientes sont là pour juger !

LA : En cette rentrée 2012, quelles sont les marques ou les lancements que vous attendez avec impatience ?
DT : Chanel 5 nouvelle communication avec Brad Pitt, Repetto, Balenciaga, Manifesto YSL, Jardin Noir de Tom Ford et le Prada Luna Rossa.

TENDANCES FUTURES

LA : D’ici 2015, vous souhaitez que l’Industrie du Parfum devienne plus… (à vous de compléter)
DT : … Plus Premium et sélective dans ses lancements. Plus exigeante dans ses choix et développements olfactifs. Moins d’égéries et, plus de créations avec un vrai partis pris, d’audace et de qualité. Et enfin, moins de tests qui nivellent l’originalité en désirant plaire au plus grand nombre.

LA : Quelles « directions olfactives » aimeriez-vous voir dans des futures créations ?
DT : Patchouli, encens, baumes et résines modernisés. Des chypres modernisés mais pas gourmands. Des Boisés féminins. Moins de parfums fruités; ils ont tendances à tous se ressembler et par conséquence on les oublie aussitôt!

LA : D’après vous, quelles marques de parfum vont prendre l’ascension dans le futur et pourquoi ?
DT : Les marques niche pour l’audace et la créativité. Les marques couture et vrai luxe pour la projection et la valorisation du consommateur. Les marques qui se donnent les moyens de créer un véritable univers avec de vraies histoires et des produits de belle facture.

LA : Les parfumeries peinent à conserver leurs clients qui papillonnent entre les différentes Chaines, Grands-magasins ou encore Internet. Selon-vous, quelles seraient les voies à explorer pour améliorer la fidélisation de la clientèle ?
DT :Les Parfumeries devraient dévélopper des « chapelles »= mini boutiques dans le magasin (cf. Printemps Haussmann) avec vendeurs formés à la parfumerie et ayant de réelles connaissances pour fournir des conseils personnalisés. Exemples: Boutique Chanel Beauté à Hong Kong, Editions Frédéric Malle, Serge Lutens. A souligner aussi l’importance de la CRM (cf. Mugler) et des Applications Iphone / profil conso ou tendances marché. Aussi, Investir sur la formation des vendeuses en parfumerie: leur prodiguer une véritable culture de la parfumerie (les clientes sont souvent plus informées ou cultivées grâce aux blogs et aux articles de fond qui paraissent dans la presse). Les marques se doivent d’investir massivement dans la FORMATION ! C’est le dernier maillon entre la marque et la cliente ! Il faut ré enchanter le parfum et faire rêver les clientes…

A big thank you to Diane Thalheimer-Krief for her time and passion.
LA

If you wish to check the previous episodes, click here below:

Episode 1: Le Critique de Parfum
Episode 2: Elisabeth de Feydeau
Episode 3: Yann Vasnier
Episode 4: Pierre Aulas
Episode 5: Luc Berriet
Episode 6: Beatrix Chartier
Episode 7: Cédric Dauch 

Info sourced in an exclusive interview by luxuryactivist.com.  All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Facebook: only one Page per company

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Reading Time: 6 minutes

Facebook global pages

Facebook announced to their “Preferred Marketing Developers” that they are working on the “mandatory merge” all companies different fan pages around the world into only ONE.

facebook-page-merge

So if you have several company’s fan pages, most of the time one is global and then you have the local ones, this means that you will end up with only one.

Right now, you can already do it thanks to the improvements of the admin interface.

Facebook-Merge

It is an interesting way to retake control of your name in Facebook, especially if some non-authorized people did create pages on your name. I tried and it works perfectly.

Facebook pages creation

But the next step for Facebook is to impose the “single-page” strategy to all companies. Facebook says that companies should use more the geo-tagging options of the admin interface rather than multiply pages. We assume that for them it will be a better cost efficiency as local pages were having a high development rate, which means a lot of same content duplicated several times in the Facebook servers. Hosting costs went crazily up on the past 3 years as many companies developed their pages and that Facebook achieved the 1 billion users.

Facebook users 1 billion

If Facebook were a country, imagine a country with almost the same population as China but with the GDP per capita of Bangladesh. We would be either having a humanitarian catastrophe or civil war. Fortunately for the inhabitants of Facebook land, all this is virtual.

facebook-marketplace-smo

So Facebook needs desperately to MONETIZE their business. Social does not mean volunteering work in social media right? The first step is increase revenues. They extended the advertising offers. Marketplace became a multiple billion dollar tool with extended packages. This year they launched Facebook offers, which allow companies to reach fans timelines in order to advertise special offers.

facebook-offers

Of course another way to improve profitability is to reduce the costs of your operations, reduce the debt. With a consistently growth of their users and of the content in Facebook, every month they need to add extra Tera-octets. Every minute, Facebook has almost 1 million pieces of content published on their servers. So one of the actions to reduce the costs of such servers will be to force companies to keep only one single company page in the world. This should stop the duplication of the same content in multiple pages.

But the question is: Is it interesting for companies to have one single page? Not sure. Of course centralized companies will have finally a better control of their pages content and identity. For the users, it will be easier to find the “official page”. Large companies will end up with pages with hundreds of millions fans. Could this be a “web-killer”? In deed and up to now most of the brands have more traffic in their respective websites than in their Facebook pages. But if Nike ends up with a 500 million fan page, this might be more strategic than the website. What if big companies would basically shut down their websites to dedicate themselves to their Facebook pages? People instead of using Google to search for products and services, they will use the Search function of Facebook. and there we go…. web-killer strategy.

Of course Facebook needs to improve alot their companies admin interface and features. Right now try to manage a 5 million fan page. Hard. They are right now beta-testing alot of these features, so we might get more news from them in the incoming weeks.

They are right now beta testing the tool. The Geo targetting will be improved, language management will be much more fluid so every user will see the appropriate content.

Here is what Facebook tells you:

What are Global Pages?
Global Pages is a structure that allows brands to create individual localized versions of their Page
while maintaining the same Page name and global metrics such as Likes and People Talking About
This across all Pages. When a customer navigates to the main global page, they’ll get redirected to
the most localized Page available to them. This allows people to hear from the correct Page, so that
brands can deliver the right content to the right audience.
Why did Facebook build it?
Currently brands adopt one of two solutions to communicate with their fans worldwide: 1) a single
page solution, which unifies all fans to one Page, but doesn’t have fully geo-targeted features such
as the cover photo, profile picture, etc. or 2) a multi-page solution for each country which offers fully
localization, but it fragments their audience and doesn’t show aggregated fans, PTAT, etc.
Each solution has benefits and drawbacks. Global Pages merges these two strategies and allow
brands to create many different localized Pages while maintaining a global brand community.
Do brands have to transition to the new structure?
No, although it is encouraged. Not only will it allow a brand’s audience to easily find and like the
best Page for them, this is also an opportunity to create a fully localized Page experience including a
localized cover photo, profile photo, Page name, apps, timeline, pinned posts, and news feed
stories.
Does each Page get its own Facebook web address?
Yes, each Page can have a unique Facebook web address for each local Page as well as for the main
global Page. When users navigate to the main global Page’s address, they’ll be redirected to the appropriate local
Page. When users navigate to a local address, they’ll go directly to the local Page, regardless of
whatever country/region they are located in
Can more than one page share the same web address?
No, each Page should have a unique web address.
Will users see the URL for the main global page or the URL for the local page in their
browser?
They’ll see the URL for the local Page. For example, if they’re viewing the local Japan Page, they’ll see
facebook.com/brandJP instead of facebook.com/brand.

 

 

What do you think? Ready to share your passion with millions of people? Or do you prefer smaller communities?
LA

 

Info sourced at Facebook insiders. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. 

 

Fragrance words, episode 7: Cédric Dauch

Reading Time: 6 minutes

Fragrance_words_episode_7

Fragrance words episode 7 features Cédric Dauch. Check down below for the french version.

EPISODE 7: CEDRIC DAUCH (EN)

Cédric Dauch is Communication manager at Le Printemps France. After his studies at l’Institut Français de la Mode (the French institute for fashion), he developed his career close to the luxury clientele for prestigious Distribution Brands. At Le Printemps France, he actively contributes to the qualitative ascension of the Printemps brand. He is personally invested on the Printemps Brand’s highlight via outstanding activities. His great culture in Luxury image, places him among the cutting edge “eyes” in Paris.

THE FRAGRANCE MARKET IN 2012

Luxury Activist (LA): 2012 New launches, which are the fragrance launches that positively marked this year ?
Cédric Dauch (CD): I do not remember striking launches this year; only Coco Noir by Chanel. The campaign is very minimalistic (in execution and visibly in budgets) and that is what stroke me. Actually, I love black!

LA: In this 2012 fall, which are the brands or launches you are looking forward to ?
CD: A new Saint Laurent of Hedi Slimane, hoping for a new masculine fragrance by Chanel that seduces me. Then I would like to take time to discover Francis Kurkdjian or Frédéric Malle creations. I also hope for another small miracle at Prada.

 

FUTURE TRENDS

LA: Until 2015, you wish that the Fragrance industry becomes more… (up to you to complete the sentence)
CD: Closer to Nature, more local, more pure, more luxury, less cheap, more couture (more me actually!).

LA: Which new olfactory directions would you like to see in future creations ?
CD: Lemons, marine scents, intense woods … but I am not an expert.

LA: According to you, which Fragrance Brands will take the lead in the future and why ?
CD: The Brands pleasing the Chinese market as all the luxury business today (just kidding). I think more about Brands capable of carrying more dreams, closer to idealistic visions. Brands capable to invest less standardized territories.

LA: Perfumery shops have a hard time trying to keep their clients who, like butterflies, flutter between different Chains, Department-stores or even Internet. According to you, which are the paths to be explored to improve customer loyalty ?
CD: I think CRM must be capable of following the relationship with the customer. To “feed” him, to remind him an experience; I think Fragrances are a piece of the accessible dream of luxury. New launches do not reassure the customer in a timeless logic. It is all the incoherence of the system. To build loyalty and yet to match objectives of growth permanently.  Only Hermès has a simple concept to understand and that is far away from the marketing stereotypes that are weak in content and vision. It is full of meaning, like Diptyque or Lutens. Paco Rabanne proposed a product (One Million) made just to bring reassurance and an idea of power in a world missing purpose. It is clever and well done. The “juice” is clean then consensual. For the point of sales, it is up to them to propose a concept, a meaning and a vision to the customer. Le Printemps Haussmann succeeded:
“Because Perfumery is a true “work of art”, and also one of the ancient French know-hows, Le Printemps honors it, engages with Perfumers and Fragrance houses in offering them a dedicated space called “La Belle Parfumerie” (The Beautiful Perfumery in French).

Fragrance_words_episode 7 french

Fragrance words épisode 7 présente Cédric Dauch.

EPISODE 7: CEDRIC DAUCH (FR)

Cédric Dauch est Responsable Communication pour Printemps France. Après des études à l’Institut Français de la Mode, Cédric Dauch développa sa carrière au plus près de la clientèle de Luxe au sein de prestigieuses enseignes. Au Printemps France, il contribue activement à l’ascension qualitative de la marque Printemps. Il est personnellement engagé dans la mise en valeur des Marques à travers des opérations audacieuses. Sa grande culture de l’Image du Luxe le classe parmi les “regards” les plus pointus de la place parisienne.

LE MARCHE DE LA PARFUMERIE EN 2012

Luxury Activist (LA) : Lancements 2012, quels parfums vous ont-ils positivement marqués cette année ?
Cédric Dauch (CD) : Je ne me souviens pas de lancements marquants cette année ; seulement celui de Coco Noir par Chanel. La campagne est très minimale (en exécution et budget visiblement) et c’est justement ce qui m’a marqué. Au fait, j’aime le noir !!

LA : En cette rentrée 2012, quelles sont les marques ou les lancements que vous attendez avec impatience ?
CD : Un nouveau Saint Laurent d’Hédi Slimane, enfin un masculin chez Chanel qui me séduise, puis découvrir de plus près les créations de Francis Kurkdjian ou Frédéric Malle. Un nouveau petit miracle de Prada.

TENDANCES FUTURES

LA : D’ici 2015, vous souhaitez que l’Industrie du Parfum devienne plus… (à vous de compléter)
CD : Proche de la nature, plus locale, plus pure, plus luxueuse, moins cheap, plus couture (plus moi !).

LA : Quelles « directions olfactives » aimeriez-vous voir dans des futures créations ?
CD : Des citrons, des odeurs marines, des boisés intenses, je ne suis pas assez qualifié.

LA : D’après vous, quelles marques de parfum vont prendre l’ascension dans le futur et pourquoi ?
CD : Les marques qui plaisent au marché chinois, comme tout le luxe (je plaisante). Les marques capables de porter plus de rêves, plus proches d’idéaux. Les marques capables d’investir des territoires moins uniformisés.

LA : Les parfumeries peinent à conserver leurs clients qui papillonnent entre les différentes Chaines, Grands-magasins ou encore Internet. Selon-vous, quelles seraient les voies à explorer pour améliorer la fidélisation de la clientèle ?
CD : Je pense que le CRM doit être capable de poursuivre la relation avec le client. Le nourrir, lui rappeler une expérience ; je pense que les parfums sont la part du rêve de luxe accessible et que les lancements ne confortent pas le client dans un logique pérenne. C’est toute l’incohérence du système ; fidéliser mais trouver des relais de croissance en permanence. Seul Hermès a une logique facile à comprendre et loin des carcans marketeux assez faibles en contenu et vision. C’est plein de sens, comme Diptyque ou Lutens. Paco Rabanne a proposé un produit juste pour apporter de l’assurance et du pouvoir dans un monde en quête de sens, c’est malin et juste ; pour le jus, c’est propre donc consensuel. Pour les points de vente, à eux de proposer une logique, de redonner du sens et de la vision aux consommateurs. Le Printemps Haussamn y est arrivé :

« Parce que le parfum est une véritable œuvre d’art mais aussi un des plus anciens savoir-faire français, le Printemps lui rend hommage et s’engage auprès des parfumeurs et des maisons de parfums en leur offrant cet espace dédié qu’est la Belle Parfumerie ».

A big thank you to Cédric Dauch for his time and passion.
Next episode of Fragrance Words: Diane Thalheimer, Fragrance Expert – Thursday, 18th October 2012.

If you wish to check the previous episodes, click here below:

Episode 1: Le Critique de Parfum
Episode 2: Elisabeth de Feydeau
Episode 3: Yann Vasnier
Episode 4: Pierre Aulas
Episode 5: Luc Berriet
Episode 6: Beatrix Chartier 

 

Info sourced in an exclusive interview by luxuryactivist.com.  All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Conrad hotel Brussels – very bad trip.

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Reading Time: 4 minutes

When you are traveling, you might do it for work, for leisure and sometimes for special occasions. This weekend Luxuryactivist team were at Conrad Hotel in Brussels… and we realized afterwards that it was not a good idea.

The Conrad belongs to the Hilton franchise and as many luxury hotels, they became simply factories for business congresses and trips. When we arrive at the hotel, nevertheless, there is a great spirit with the main entry. The building itself is a very elegant white building, giving you the feeling of arriving at a special place.

Exterior view of Conrad Brussels
photo: Conrad

By walking in we get to the main area with the reception desk. There again we can feel we have arrived in a high quality place.

Conrad Brussels Reception
photo: Conrad

The welcome is polite, friendly and everybody looks ready to help you spending the perfect journey. Before going to spend an afternoon of shopping in Brussels, we let our luggage at the reception desk as the rooms were not ready yet. They said they would bring the luggage to our rooms while we were out. We also asked for some recommendation for the evening diner and asked the Concierge to let in the room a list of possibilities (which he agreed on).

After an afternoon of shopping in the city center of Brusssels, we came back to the hotel because we had a Relaxing massage at the spa. And while discovering the room, trouble started.

Classic Queen Bed Room
photo: Conrad

First, when you look to the picture here above, we can see 2 big Queen beds. Queen beds are supposed to be 160cm  x 200cm in Europe and when I asked the hotel, they told me that it is not true, that in Europe Queen beds are 140cm. Not true. Just check here: Bed sizes.

After complaining twice, I finally got the installation of a third bed, which frankly did not make the best visual effect in the room. Welcome to Boot camp!

bad bed at the Conrad

Of course the best thing was also that we had only 20mn before the spa massage and my luggage…. was not in the room. Where? nobody knew. After a while they finally brought my luggage and the luggage man just told me that his colleague forgot to bring it to the room. We can see that service is not at its best here.

Then of course there were not enough bathrobes and slippers, no blankets… nothing really made for the guests comfort. Nothing really personal with this bedroom, could be Conrad, Marriott or even something else. Basically we can feel that Conrad Brussels is a money machine, getting business people coming here probably because they do not really have the choice and that probably get points into their HHonors program.

We finally got into the Spa for our 17h00 massage. One of the 3 massage therapists was not yet there, late. So one of us needed to wait. The Spa itself was nice. There was a 17m pool with a very nice decoration, Mediterranean style.

Aspria Avenue Louise Spa

The massage itself was really good. We all took the 45mn relaxing massage with essential oils. The therapists were well trained and did a quite professional job.

After the massage there were no more places available in the long chairs around the pool. We can see that all the place was given to the pool itself and few place was left for the comfort of guests. It is a pity that they did not think about a relaxing area in which we could just relax. At the contrary, the fitness area is huge, which is also a sign of a business clientele exclusively.

So highlights of the place:

  • Central place in Brussels
  • Biggest swimming pool in a hotel in the city center
  • Massage therapists really good
  • Rooms size

Lowlights:

  • Service to the person really poor
  • Efficiency and standardization before comfort and cosiness
  • Lack of consistence in terms of service
  • Beds are not what is promised
  • Little details for the comfort of people missing in the room

So Luxuryactivist advice is, do not stay at the Conrad. Just come for the spa. Even for business, we saw better hotels.
LA

 

Info sourced at luxuryactivist experience, wikipedia and Conrad hotel website. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction right available.

Parmigiani Fleurier, real luxury watch-making

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Reading Time: 3 minutes

Parmigiani_Logo

Parmigiani Fleurier is a high-end Swiss watchmaker brand founded in 1976 in Fleurier, Switzerland. It was founded by Michel Parmigiani. The foundation of this amazing brand is based on the talent of restoring watchmaking artefacts and the inspiration of mechanical movements of the past.

Michel_Parmigiani

In a world in which watchmakers are having a hard time fighting into a kind of “red ocean” for components, some brands just go throught it thanks to alot of know how, patience and passion. And Parmigiani is definitely one of them.

Mouvement Parmigiani Fleurier

All Parmigiani’s Timepieces has at least 400 jours of work. They are all hand-made with movements produced in-house. This quite confidential brand got a major communication breakthrough in 2006 when they got the Watch of the year award for its Bugatti 370. It is said that they produce only 1,000 units per year and most of their watches are produced in very limited edition. These makes it simply a very exclusive

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Parmigiani Bugatti 370 – a masterpiece

In terms of collections,  here are some of the Luxuryactivist highlights.

KALPA GRANDE STEEL
Kalpa_Grande_Steel

  • Kalpa Grande Automatic Gold and Palladium
  • Limited edition: 100 pieces
  • Automatic winding, Power reserve 55 hours
  • Caliber PF331.01
  • Double spring barrel “Côtes de Genève” décoration
  • Chamfered bridges oscillating weight in 22ct gold
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds or small seconds at 6 o’clock, date aperture
  • Tonneau case: 46.6 x 34.0 mm
  • 18ct white gold and 950 palladium
  • Water resistant: 30m
  • Sapphire crystal with anti -reflection treatment
  • Straps/bracelet: Hermès calf leather with tongue buckle

 

PERSHING OPENWORKED TOURBILLON
Pershing tourbillon

  • Openworked Tourbillon
  • Caliber PF511, PVD main plate and bridges. 30 sec. tourbillon
  • One week power reserve
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Centre seconds, Power reserve indicator
  • Round case 45 mm 18ct rose gold and palladium
  • Water resistance: 200m
  • Unidirectional turning bezel
  • Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Regulated tension crown: 8mm
  • Case-back with Crystal sapphire
  • 1 palladium version, bezel set with 60 “baguette cut” diamonds.
  • Straps: Hermès alligator with safety folding buckle

 

FEMME RETROGRADE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Retrograde perpetual calendar

  • Toric retrograde perpetual calendar
  • Caliber PF333.01 automatic winding
  • Power reserve 55 hours
  • Double spring barrel «Côtes de Genève» decoration
  • Hand-chamfered bridges, steel stoned lengthwise
  • Oscillating weight in 22 ct gold
  • Functions: Hours, minutes,seconds, precision moon phase, perpetual calendar with apertures (day, retrograde date, month and leap year).
  • Round case 40.5 mm in 18ct white gold
  • Bezel with single radial knurling variant set with 60 baguette cut diamonds
  • Water resistant: 30m
  • Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment
  • Individual number engraved on the back
  • Strap: Hermès alligator with tongue buckle

Please visit the brand official website to discover the other timepieces among amazing collection.
http://www.parmigiani.ch 

When the luxury industry started loosing its soul to financial leading, some brands stands out for their convictions and the valorization of traditional know-how. Many established watch brands could follow the example of Parmigiani.

LA

 

Info sourced at the brand official website, wikipedia and worldtempus. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.

Damir Doma, Fashion designer of the month

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Reading Time: 2 minutes

If there is one thing exciting about fashion, it is the fact that every year you can discover someone or something new. This month at Luxuryactivist, we welcome Damir Doma. He is our fashion designer of the month.

Damir Doma by sibylle-walter
photo: Sibylle Walter

Damir Doma is a fashion designer established in Paris. He was born in Croatia and grew up in Bavaria, Germany. Her mother used to have a clothing atelier, which brought a great influence to his own development.

He studied fashion in Munich and in Berlin. After his studies, he moved to Antwerp in Belgium and started working within Raf Simons. He started his own label in 2006 and today, he is considered as the most important German fashion designer after Karl Lagerfeld and Jil Sander (source: BILD). His style could be described as a personal search of balance between style, cut and texture. The designer himself cites Issey Miyake as one of his influences and we can easily understand why.

Damir_Doma_fashion

Damir_Doma_fashion2
Photo source: Madame Figaro

In 2009, the first Damir Doma store opened in Paris and in 2012 they moved the store to a 3-level floor in Faubourg Saint Honoré.

Damir Doma flagship store 4

Damir Doma flagship store 5

Damir Doma flagship store 3

Damir Doma flagship store

The store was designed by renowned Australia architect Rodney Eggleston of March Studios. If you pass by the french capital, here is the address:

DAMIR DOMA STORE
54, Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré
75008 Paris
T. +33 1 452 709 30
store@damirdoma.com

 

 

 

Here are the Spring-Summer 2013 shows for women and men.


2 lines exists, one called DAMIR DOMA and a recent one called SILENT with a bigger diffusion.

Damir Doma Silent

Damir Doma Silent 4

Damir Doma Silent 3

Damir Doma Silent 2

Do not hesitate to connect to the designer’s official website to discover his amazing universe.
http://www.damirdoma.com

LA

 

Info sourced at Brand official press release, youtube and website, Madame Figaro and wikipedia.

Fragrance words, episode 6: Beatrix Chartier

Reading Time: 8 minutes

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Fragrance words, episode 6, features Beatrix Chartier. As usual please see down below for the french version.

EPISODE 6: BEATRIX CHARTIER (EN)

Beatrix Chartier is Fine Fragrances Evaluation Director at Givaudan, one of the leading Fragrance Houses in the world. During the years, Beatrix Chartier developed an unique and tremendous knowledge on Fragrances launched in the international market. She kept preciously every Fragrance she evaluated into her notes as precious reminders of her impressions. She has an “edgy eye” and thanks to her special position as Evaluation Director, she has a transversal look on the Fragrance market. She is also very passionate and put a lot of professionalism and good mood on her daily work.

THE FRAGRANCE MARKET IN 2012

Luxury Activist (LA): 2012 New launches, which are the fragrance launches that positively marked this year ?
Beatrix Chartier (BX):  
In 2012, I highlight 3 feminine fragrances: Prodigieux by Nuxe (this is a launch that the brand had to do facing the enthusiasm of consumers for their flagship product), La Petite Robe Noire (rather cheeky from Guerlain to make a perfume with such name while they do not have couture. Guerlain has succeeded to make its customers to dream), Roberto Cavalli (a sensual textured fragrance that does not fit the floral / fruity stream from consumer tests).
For men, I would have to go back a little in time. 2011 with Siete by Loewe.

LA: According to you, which are the failed launches this year and why ?
BX: I may be wrong but I’m not sure if “La Vie est Belle” by Lancôme can be a success, I do not understand the message of the TV ad (too many things that remind me of Dior)
The press photo is not very successful and the scent is very gimmick and still very close to other products.

LA: In this 2012 fall, which are the brands or launches you are looking forward to ?
BX: I had lot of expectancies on Chanel and YSL. I find the Coco Noir concept very consistent but I’m not sure to understand the idea (do they want to recover a more traditional clientele, older than Coco Mademoiselle ?). Manifesto disappoints me but I may not be very objective, the flacon is cheap and slightly feminine, the fragrance is a classic (Dune / Must twisted) but more qualitative.

FUTURE TRENDS

LA: Until 2015, you wish that the Fragrance industry becomes more… (up to you to complete the sentence)
BX: Obviously, the dream would be to have fewer consumers tests to making the final decision. In fact, too many people are around the table to make a decision that becomes a conscensus. We often have to work with teams who do not take the final decision. In a world where we want everything secure and where the stakes are heavy, I’m not sure that things will change quickly. We wish more lightness to create with more freedom, we also wish to ask the teams to have more confidence in their instincts. Most are so focused on distributors demands that they forget their brand DNA.

LA: Which new olfactory directions would you like to see in future creations ?
BX: Less Fruity fragrances! To think more about the future of raw materials and see how can we create Florals and Woods with more and more strict directives.

LA: According to you, which Fragrance Brands will take the lead in the future and why ?
BX: The ones who will resist to the distributor’s rules.

LA: Perfumery shops have a hard time trying to keep their clients who, like butterflies, flutter between different Chains, Department-stores or even Internet. According to you, which are the paths to be explored to improve customer loyalty ?
BX: The speech of the beauty advisors and their listening skills (some of them must make money on certain products so they do not answer your request but rather try to sell you what they need to sell). We return to a shop when we trust a beauty advisor, when we remember that the sales person understood our needs… Too many perfumeries order a neat look but in reality there is not much to “see”. “Sick of hyper makeup beauties with empty heads…”

Fragrance_words_logo_ep6_FR

Fragrance words, épisode 6, présente Beatrix Chartier.

EPISODE 6: BEATRIX CHARTIER (FR)

Beatrix Chartier est Directrice Parfumerie fine de l’Evaluation chez Givaudan, une des Maisons de composition leaders mondiales. Durant des années, Beatrix Chartier a développé une grande et unique connaissance des lancements de parfum sur le marché international. Elle conserve précieusement ses notes sur tous les parfums qui sont lancés comme des précieux rappels de ses impressions. Elle a un regard pointu et grâce à sa position en tant que Directrice de l’Evaluation, elle possède une vue transversale du marché. Elle est aussi très passionnée par son métier qu’elle exerce avec beaucoup de professionnalisme et de bonne humeur.

LE MARCHE DE LA PARFUMERIE EN 2012

Luxury Activist (LA) : Lancements 2012, quels parfums vous ont-ils positivement marqués cette année ?
Beatrix Chartier (BX) : En 2012, je retiens 3 féminins : Prodigieux de Nuxe (c’est un lancement que la marque se devait de faire depuis longtemps vu l’engouement des consommatrices pour leur produit phare), La Petite Robe Noire (plutôt culotté de la part de Guerlain de faire un parfum avec un nom couture alors qu’ils n’ont pas de couture mais enfin, Guerlain a réussi à faire rêver les consommatrices), Roberto Cavalli (un parfum sensuel texturé qui ne rentre pas dans les écritures florales/fruitées issues des tests consommateurs). Pour les masculins, il faudrait que je remonte un peu plus dans le temps. 2011 avec le Siete de Loewe.

LA : A votre avis, quels sont les “flops” de l’année ? Et pourquoi ?
BX : Je me trompe peut être mais je ne suis pas sûre que “La Vie est Belle” de Lancôme puisse être un succès ; je ne comprends pas le message de la pub TV (trop de choses me font penser à celle de Dior), la photo presse n’est pas très réussie et le parfum fait très “gimmick” et encore très proche d’autres produits.
LA : En cette rentrée 2012, quelles sont les marques ou les lancements que vous attendez avec impatience ?
BX : J’attendais beaucoup Chanel et YSL. Je trouve le concept Coco Noir très cohérent mais je ne suis pas sûre d’en comprendre la démarche (ils veulent récupérer une clientèle plus tradi, plus agée que celle de Coco Mademoiselle ?). Manifesto me déçoit mais je ne suis peut être pas très objective, le flacon est cheap et peu féminin, le parfum est classique (Dune/ Must twisté) mais plus qualitatif.

TENDANCES FUTURES

LA : D’ici 2015, vous souhaitez que l’Industrie du Parfum devienne plus… (à vous de compléter)
BX : Evidemment, le rêve serait d’avoir moins de tests consommateurs qui prennent la décision finale. En fait, trop de personnes sont autour de la table pour prendre une décision qui s’avère être un conscensus. Nous avons souvent à faire en direct avec des équipes qui ne prennent pas la décision finale. Dans un monde où l’on veut tout sécuriser et où les enjeux sont lourds, je ne suis pas sûre que cela va changer rapidement. On peut demander plus de légèreté pour créer avec plus de liberté, on peut aussi demander aux équipes d’avoir plus confiance en leur instinct. La plupart sont tellement focalisées sur les désidératas des distributeurs qu’elles en oublient l’ADN de leur marque.

LA : Quelles « directions olfactives » aimeriez-vous voir dans des futures créations ?
BX : Moins de fruités ! Réfléchir davantage sur le devenir des matières premières naturelles et voir comment on peut créer des floraux, des boisés avec les directives de plus en plus difficiles.

LA : D’après vous, quelles marques de parfum vont prendre l’ascension dans le futur et pourquoi ?
BX : Celles qui pourront résister le plus aux dictats des distributeurs.

LA : Les parfumeries peinent à conserver leurs clients qui papillonnent entre les différentes Chaines, Grands-magasins ou encore Internet. Selon-vous, quelles seraient les voies à explorer pour améliorer la fidélisation de la clientèle ?
BX : Le discours des vendeuses et leur capacité d’écoute (certaines doivent tellement faire leur chiffre de vente sur certains produits qu’elles ne répondent pas à la demande du client  et essaient de vendre ce qu’elles doivent vendre). Je pense que l’on revient dans un magasin quand on a confiance en une vendeuse, quand on se rappelle de celle qui a compris ce dont on avait besoin… trop d’enseignes imposent à leurs vendeuses un look soigné mais derrière, il n’y a pas grand-chose (ras le bol des « jolies » hyper maquillées qui n’ont rien dans le ciboulot !).

A big thank you to Beatrix Chartier for her time and passion.
Next episode of Fragrance Words: Cédric Dauch, Le Printemps Haussmann – Tuesday 16th October 2012.

If you wish to check the previous episodes, click here below:

Episode 1: Le Critique de Parfum
Episode 2: Elisabeth de Feydeau
Episode 3: Yann Vasnier
Episode 4: Pierre Aulas
Episode 5: Luc Berriet  

Info sourced in an exclusive interview by luxuryactivist.com.  All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available.