fragrance trends

Friday Chronicle N.26: The “Mon” trend – Mon Guerlain, Mon Paris…. 

Friday Chronicle N.26: The “Mon” trend – Mon Guerlain, Mon Paris…. 

The Fragrance market is an amazing creative industry in which every year more than 400 new major products are launched. The best creative minds (and noses) of this world meet to create the next big thing, the next Chanel N.5 or the new Tresor by Lancôme. Unfortunately for a lot of these creative people, from all these 400 launches, only 1 or 2 are still ranked in the market 18 month after the initial launch. Some big trends just take over the market and become a standard. Here is what we call the “Mon” trend: Mon Guerlain by Guerlain vs Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent. It is not the first time that the word “Mon”,which means “Mine or My” in French, is used in a fragrance name. Other brands have added this word into their fragrance names. It procures a more personal style to the fragrance that is suppose…

2015 incoming Fragrance launches

2015 incoming Fragrance launches

The Fragrance industry is ending up another year and before the new year starts, let’s have a focus on the ongoing business of fragrances and specially the new incoming launches for next year. The fragrance industry is looking for a new development model, 2013 – 2020 Since 2000, the fragrance industry has overall a 3% growth year by year. While in 2013 the sales reached $45 billion globally (source: euromonitor) 2014 was a year in which several trends revealed the need for a new business model. Facing a tremendous number of launches, fragrance customers saw a certain lack of creativity that made a lot of fragrances look like “me-toos” rather of being original creations. Several brands are extending existing franchises rather than creating new ones and some of these brands, lucky enough to have iconic and classic fragrances in their portfolios, decided to capitalize on it. This situation is not…

Fragrance words, episode 8 with Diane Thalheimer-Krief

Fragrance words, episode 8 with Diane Thalheimer-Krief

Fragrance words episode 8 features Diane Thalheimer-Krief. Please see below for the french version. EPISODE 8: DIANE THALHEIMER-KRIEF (EN) Diane Thalheimer-Krief has 20 years of experience in developing fragrances, international marketing, olfaction and evaluation. From her studies (CELSA, Economics, Olfaction), through her thesis on Perfumery (Study and Research on perfume plants) she dedicated her career with passion to give birth to beautiful creations. After several years of international marketing direction in a composition Laboratory, she created her company, REDBERRY in 2003. It is a company exclusively about services and consultancy dedicated to perfume. Her areas of expertise: Training, training tools, Perfumery gestures, Marketing (culture, trends and conferences), Brand Portfolio (DNA analysis and olfactory mapping) and Intranets. THE FRAGRANCE MARKET IN 2012 Luxury Activist (LA): 2012 New launches, which are the fragrance launches that positively marked this year ? Diane Thalheimer-Krief (DT): Coco Noir, Jimmy Choo, La Petite robe noire by Guerlain, Martin Margiela and Bottega Venetta. LA: According to you, which are the failed launches this…

Fragrance words, episode 7: Cédric Dauch

Fragrance words, episode 7: Cédric Dauch

Fragrance words episode 7 features Cédric Dauch. Check down below for the french version. EPISODE 7: CEDRIC DAUCH (EN) Cédric Dauch is Communication manager at Le Printemps France. After his studies at l’Institut Français de la Mode (the French institute for fashion), he developed his career close to the luxury clientele for prestigious Distribution Brands. At Le Printemps France, he actively contributes to the qualitative ascension of the Printemps brand. He is personally invested on the Printemps Brand’s highlight via outstanding activities. His great culture in Luxury image, places him among the cutting edge “eyes” in Paris. THE FRAGRANCE MARKET IN 2012 Luxury Activist (LA): 2012 New launches, which are the fragrance launches that positively marked this year ? Cédric Dauch (CD): I do not remember striking launches this year; only Coco Noir by Chanel. The campaign is very minimalistic (in execution and visibly in budgets) and that is what stroke me. Actually, I love black! LA: In this…

Fragrance words, episode 4: Pierre Aulas

Fragrance words, episode 4: Pierre Aulas

For the second time this week, Fragrance words reveals the vision of aFragrance expert about perfumery trends. In this 4th episode, we discover the words of Pierre Aulas. As usual, the french version is down below. EPISODE 4: PIERRE AULAS (EN) Pierre Aulas founded in 2001 Art of Nose Consulting, after several years working for Brands and Fragrance Houses in the development of new launches. His abilities in both marketing and fragrance quickly positioned him as the perfect middleman between brands and “noses”. His first client, naturally, was Thierry Mugler as he has worked formerly for this Brand from Firmenich as Key account manager. From this first collaboration came out creations like Mugler Cologne, Alien, Angel les Jardins d’Etoile, la part des Anges… Then came out other brands, and Pierre started working for Azzaro, Swarovski, Fendi, Pucci, L’Occitane, Jil Sander, Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Davidoff or Balenciaga. Pierre Aulas also launched…

Fragrance words episode 3, Yann Vasnier

Fragrance words episode 3, Yann Vasnier

Welcome to the third episode of Fragrance words. This time we discover the vision of Yann Vasnier, Perfumer at Givaudan New York. As usual, the french version is down below. EPISODE 3: YANN VASNIER (EN) Yann Vasnier is a Perfumer living in New York. He works for one of the world leading Fragrance houses, Givaudan. Today considered as one of the rising stars in this industry, he creates fragrances for brands like Kiehl’s, Divine, Delrae, Arquiste, Tom Ford or Marc Jacobs. Yann Vasnier started his career several years ago at Quest International in Paris as Trainee Perfumer, under the mentoring of Francoise Caron, and studied at the same time at ISIPCA, the perfumery school at the University of Versailles. THE FRAGRANCE MARKET IN 2012 Luxury Activist (LA): 2012 New launches, which are the fragrance launches that positively marked this year ? Yann Vasnier (YV): Spicebomb, and the new interpretations of the classics:…

Fragrance words episode 2, Elisabeth de Feydeau

Fragrance words episode 2, Elisabeth de Feydeau

Fragrance words is a web-serie of exclusive interviews. Twice a week we discover the vision of Perfumery experts on the Fragrance market this year, and also on future trends. You can find the original interview in French below the english translation. EPISODE 2: ELISABETH DE FEYDEAU (EN) Our second guest is Elisabeth de Feydeau. With a PhD in History, and Fragrance expert to Great luxury houses, Elisabeth De Feydeau willingly defines herself as « stories and scents hunter ». Awarded with the medal of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres, Elisabeth also runs a blog (Elisabeth de Feydeau’s news). She also created a line of scented candles, Arty Fragrance by Elisabeth de Feydeau, inspired by Versailles and the Baroque spirit. (Her website : www.arty-fragrance.com).She wrote several books about Perfume, like « Les Parfums : dictionnaire, anthology, histoire » : 1216 pages launched in November 2011 – Robert Lafont Editions, Collection Bouquins. In October 2012, is released…