Upcycling: how you get fashion from cast-offs

Marks & Spencers have launched a new Shwopping scheme that has put 'upcycling', the process of making new clothes out of old, in the spotlight. But TRAID have been at it for years! And the ethical high street charity shop has raised over 30 million since launching in 1999. So how do the donations go from cast-offs to new designs? Follow a pair of old curtains and watch them become a covetable item

The matchy matchy look:Jessica Biel, Rihanna and a Stella McCartney model show how it's done. Photographs: Getty; Mavrix/Xclusive

Yes, it's official - you're allowed to match your clothes again
Clashing patterns has been all the rage for what seems like an age - yes this week Fashion Statement rhymes. But Jess Cartner-Morley has just broken the news that in fact matchy-matchy is the new fashion compliment you should be hankering after. Firstly, from Stella to Whistles, there's been the surprise success of this season's pyjama set trend. Secondly, designers and the high-street are backing matching print top-and-bottom sets for next season too. This week Topshop's autumn/winter press preview was bursting with co-ordinating separates in all manner of textures and patterns. Oh and Wendi Deng got in on the act with a nail polish and cuff matching moment during Leveson.

Barjis Chohan's AW 2012 collection: "Young, fashionable Muslims are struggling to buy clothes from the Western, high-street shops" Photograph: Barjis Chohan

Muslim fashion is having a moment
Muslim fashion is worth 59 million globally. Vivienne Westwood proteg Barjis Chohan has just launched a fashion-forward, Muslim-focused line. Harrods are selling abayas. This week Sara Ilyas rounded up how Muslim fashion is having a moment while discussing hijab trends and what fashion labels are doing to target a modern Muslim audience.

ASOS Autumn/Winter 2012 key trends. Photograph: ASOS

There was a lot happening in the world of menswear
Singapore staged a men's fashion week, which Sue-Wen Quek had some issues with. The first London Collections Men schedule was released by the British Fashion Council. As Imogen Fox noted, there are a lot of Christophers (and a Prince) on board for this first men's London fashion week. Savile Row was once again in the spotlight: Charlie Porter thought it needed to "adapt its crafts to the modern world." Gustav Temple meanwhile, argued that there was no place for the likes of Abercrombie & Fitch on this hallowed street. And if this wasn't enough male fashion action then Simon Chilvers' roundup contemplated Russell Brand's select committee look, shoes, and a new knitwear neckline.

Helen Mirren on the catwalk at Dolce & Gabbana's autumn/winter 2012 show in Milan earlier this year. Photograph: Olycom SPA/Rex Features

Dolce & Gabbana made the Invisible Woman giddy
She was attending the first Vogue fashion festival and minding her own business, when suddenly the Invisible Woman found herself whisked off to interview Italian power duo Dolce & Gabbana. She loved them. They talked about older women, botox and chocolate. Obvs.

Madonna launches her first fragrance Truth Or Dare. Photograph: Kevin Mazur/WireImage

Cowell and Madge
Not together. Can you imagine? No, no, no. The world couldn't cope. Instead this week Ask Hadley dealt with why Simon only appears to have two outfits. And perfumer Stephen Nilsen lifted the lid on working with the Queen of Pop on her first fragrance. Cue tales of 8ft high black steel walls and bitching about musk. L.U.V Madonna!

Tom prepares to trim his brother Patrick's curls. Photograph: Patrick Kingsley

The other day I was at the watercooler in the office when the deputy fashion editor swept past. "Nice haircut," she said. I swelled with pride. Not just the narcissistic kind – at last! Follical validation from a respected analyst of haute couture! – but fraternal pride, too. For this haircut was not just any haircut. It was a haircut by my brother.

For the past 12 months, Tom and I have cut each other's barnets. You may wonder why I'm sharing this information – we can't see what the fuss is either – but it seems to amaze enough people to demand some sort of demystification. So here goes.

Once a month, I pop round to Tom's flat, we watch The Apprentice, and then out come the kitchen scissors. One time I tried to watch The Apprentice during the haircut itself, but this ended badly. Tom is very dexterous but he needs direction, something I was unable to provide while watching Suralan and co. Facilities in the bathroom, or occasionally the kitchen, are limited. We have a small mirror, a towel, and a vacuum cleaner. "Would you like product in that?" is simply not a question we have the resources to ask.

The shebang all started when we were home last year for Easter. My curls were on the shaggy side, so Tom – always a pragmatist – whipped out the scissors and waved them at me. A tradition was born. From Tom's perspective, the arrangement saves him a bit of money. For my part, I get my hair cut by someone who does exactly what I say.

There have been a few bumps. Quite literally: I'm always leaving divots. In fact, in technical terms, I am a terrible hairdresser. I don't see this as critical – if your hair looks all right from a distance, who cares about a few bald spots? – but on occasion Tom has complained. One time it got so bad that he actually sacked me and employed a professional barber. It cut me deep – hoho! – but he soon came crawling back. He could take only so much chit-chat about where he went on holiday.

DIY haircut tips

▶ Go slow. I tend to hack away like the grim reaper in a plague year. But for best results, only trim a little bit at a time.

▶ Cut at an angle, rather than horizontally – and if you do make a divot, it'll be easier to cover up.

▶ Apply water for easier trimming. But hair shrinks slightly as it dries, so you'll need to cut more conservatively than you think.

▶ When the hair is the right length, reduce its weight by cutting almost vertically from the root. Don't close the scissors completely.

▶ If you do make a divot, don't shorten everything else to compensate. You'll make it worse.

Suits designed in 1966 by Aquascutum and Simpson-Daks, members of the British Menswear Guild. Photograph: Keystone/Getty Images

The growing variety in men's clothes has reached a point where the tailoring world talks of rival styles. In Britain, it is the Flare line; in Germany, the Flowerpot line; in America, it is the Ivy League. Named designers of men's clothes are conspicuously absent, particularly in Britain.

Whatever the designer's interpretation of what men (or, as often or not, their womenfolk) want in clothes, it is increasingly apparent that we are fast moving towards an "international" style. Of course, there will be variations: age modifications between, say, the "teenager," the "man about town" and the "professional man", plus national variations.

Just as Paris has had to fight to resist the challenge of Italy and America in women's fashion, so today Savile Row is making a stand to retain some claim for traditional British bespoke tailoring. Hence, the Flare line, London's first major attempt for a decade to introduce a revolutionary new style. Will it succeed?

This spring's version of the Flare line, first introduced a year ago, is modified to the point where it at least becomes a practicable proposition. It is essentially the marriage of a cavalry-type jacket, longish in length and flared, and semi-bell-bottomed trousers with turn-ups.

Combined with it is the growing emphasis on brighter colours, on bold checks for country and Italian-inspired stripes for town wear. Waistcoats pick up a single colour from woollen or worsted suiting and are further enlivened by a novel cut.

Already, Savile Row reports that some of London's bold pioneers are adopting and adapting the Flare line. It will need further modification, however, before the ready-tailored manufacturers attempt to market it on a mass scale. Which is probably why the bespoke tailors have plunged for it.

The continental Flowerpot style is slender-making. The emphasis is on freedom of movement. It appeals as much to the young man on the continent as to those who wish to hide middle-age spread.

The jacket is directly opposed to the British conception. It is short with natural sloping shoulders, narrow lapels and slim sleeves to give the arms more emphasis. The trousers hug the hips and have very narrow bottoms without the turn-ups.

A touch of continental logic: bespoke tailors now cut the trouser knee on slightly fuller lines; this, together with a lining from the knee upwards, prevents bagging.

In America, this same mood of casualness has been developed over the years from what the college students wore into what has become known as the Ivy League line. Extreme forms of the Ivy, popular with younger men, are similar to our Edwardian style.

Already an American version of the Flowerpot has appeared, known as the Continental. No doubt each country will adopt its rival's styles. It becomes harder and harder to spot a man's nationality by his clothes.