The Fragrance industry is ending up another year and before the new year starts, let’s have a focus on the ongoing business of fragrances and specially the new incoming launches for next year.
The fragrance industry is looking for a new development model, 2013 – 2020
Since 2000, the fragrance industry has overall a 3% growth year by year. While in 2013 the sales reached $45 billion globally (source: euromonitor) 2014 was a year in which several trends revealed the need for a new business model.
Facing a tremendous number of launches, fragrance customers saw a certain lack of creativity that made a lot of fragrances look like “me-toos” rather of being original creations. Several brands are extending existing franchises rather than creating new ones and some of these brands, lucky enough to have iconic and classic fragrances in their portfolios, decided to capitalize on it. This situation is not new. The good thing about it? It opened a new field of possibilities for niche fragrances. New brands got a piece of the cake and major visibility in traditional communication channels. Of course the down-size of it is that they are not really niche anymore. Remember the time movie stars and celebrities used to wear completely unknown mind-blowing fragrances? Well, hard to find one now. Most of these brands are now visible in Vogue, Marie-Claire or Elle magazine. So hard to find a confidential hidden treasure.
Fashion brands understand that fragrances are an entry point to their universes, so they use the fashion image with a more affordable luxury. Eau de toilette have replaced Eau de Parfum a very longtime a go as the industry cash-cow. Other industries like jewelers, luxury car brands, make-up artists, cosmetic brands and even celebrities have found their (financial) interest in the fragrance industry.
New regions are driving growth, which require new distribution deals and also new customers needs. Countries like Brazil, India, Indonesia or even Malaysia, represent growth hubs that today’s luxury fragrance brands cannot avoid anymore. In 2014, Middle-East and Africa (South Africa) will account for 40% of the total premium fragrance segment growth. If your Brand is still fighting with sharks in Europe or in the US, you might invest a lot for low earnings.
Last but not least, 2014 was the solid settled-down of new distribution channels like internet. Established fragrance brands are now selling online for a couple of years now and have developed a solid online business. While best-selling fragrances are easy to sell online, new fragrances still represent a challenge as you cannot immediately smell them (not yet at least). In average, online sales represent between 1 to 10% of total sales for several brands. Experts believe the beauty industry will get 30% of its total revenue from ebusiness by 2020. It is a great growth opportunity but let’s not forget that 70% of total revenue will still be done in traditional distribution.
The last 10 years were very interesting in terms of new brands, new launches and new distribution models. The fragrance industry is exploring new ways while classic fragrances are performing not so bad thanks to new markets. The incoming years will be very interesting as brands need to evolve and to find a new way to build the future.
Most important incoming launches in 2015
While we are still enjoying the end of 2014, it is already time to look ahead and find out what the fragrance industry is preparing for 2015. Here is a list of the most expected premium fragrances.
2015 Q1 launches
- Anna Sui – Sui Dreams in Green
- Bvlgari Aqva for Women
- Dunhill Icon
- Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort
- Givenchy Very Irresistible Mes Envies
- Issey Miyake – Eau d’Issey City Blossom
- Jimmy Choo Blossom
- Kate Spade Walk on Air
2015 Later in the year launches
- Azzedine Alaïa fragrance
- Balmain for Men
- Jean Paul Gaultier Ultra-Male
- Kanye West fragrance
- Miu Miu fragrance
- Oscar de la Renta for women
2016 and beyond new launches
- Louis Vuitton fragrance
In conclusion, the fragrance industry continues its evolution. New businesses are created while others sleep. New markets mean new opportunities for those who are ready to embrace them.