Pre-SIHH 2017: Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton

Arsene Wargas
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1
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Cartier has created some of the most iconic watches in the history of Swiss watchmaking. One of them is the Rotonde de Cartier. In 2017, the luxury brand will release a Mysterious Hour Skeleton variant that will delight all SIHH 2017 visitors.

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The Rotonde de Cartier watch showcases the most sophisticated movements in Fine Watchmaking: a central chronograph, flying tourbillon, and astrorégulateur. The design of the Rotonde de Cartier offers a flexible and modern shape that would allow Cartier to reinvent the model all the time. Combinations are unlimited and its design will communicate a timeless modernity. With the first launch of the collection in 2006, it became quite fast  true icon of design for the Cartier brand.

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cartier-rotonde-mysterious-hour-skeleton

Cartier’s art of watchmaking is always an astonishing one. They will bring such a level of detail to the creations that you can only be amazed by it. They have enough talent to not let something random. With this exercise about the Rotonde de Cartier, we can see a more contemporary and raw aspect. What can we say about the watch itself? The skeletonization work is amazing and when you have this timepiece on your wrist, you generate an outstanding effect. The watch case is a 42mm, which could place this watch in a sort of more sporty area although the sophistication of the construction creates a very elegant look. The watch case is made of palladium. This precious metal has been used in watches and jewelry since 1939 as an alternative to platinum in the alloys called white gold.

Inside the watch, most important, you can find the Cartier’s caliber 9983 MC. It is a hand-wound movement and in this case it is quite visible thanks to this extreme work in the skeleton that goes up to the Roman numeral hour markers.

When you look to the watch, the main detail you cannot miss is the 9 0’clock sub-dial. This dial contains the famous mystery clock design that Cartier introduced more than 100 years ago. Basically 2 sapphire disks manage each of the hands and this minimalist look hides a great secret in how Cartier  manage to fix each disk to the movement. Here the skeletonization provokes a strong contrast as we feel that the movement is revealed whereas the main secret is kept. The Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton will definitely be one of the stars at the incoming SIHH 2017. For more information about the brand, you can connect to the official website here: http://www.cartier.com 

We look forward to having this masterpiece in our hands next year.

Arsène Wargas

Info sourced at the brand communication release and website. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

 

 

Blade Runner 2049, the neo-noir science fiction film is back.

José Amorim
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Reading Time: 5 minutes

Blade Runner 2049 represents the return of one of the most iconic movies of the 80’s. Fans can talk about this movie for hours and it was definitely one of the defining moments of Harrison Ford. Thirty years after the events of the first film, a new blade runner, LAPD Officer K (Ryan Gosling), unearths a long-buried secret that has the potential to plunge what’s left of society into chaos. K’s discovery leads him on a quest to find Rick Deckard (Harrison Ford), a former LAPD blade runner who has been missing for 30 years.

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Why Blade Runner is such an iconic Film?

Some people might wonder why Blade Runner is such an iconic film. There are some elements that definitely made a defining moment not only for Harrison Ford but also for the history of Science Fiction movies. Let’s put things in context. The first Blade Runner was launched in 1982. At that time 2 main movies were leading the way in the Science Fiction scene: Star Wars and Alien. Star Wars was a space opera launched initially in 1977. It was an amazing adventure and the first time we would see Harrison Ford in Cinema. It was huge, quite advanced and a tremendous saga that is still evolving nowadays since the purchase by Disney. in parallel Film Director Ridley Scott releases another tremendous saga called Alien in 1979. It was incredibly advanced in terms of special effects and definitely ground breaking for the history of movies. At the end of the 70’s, beginning of the 80’s, human society were at the end of a cycle and everybody was wondering about the future and what that future would be made of. In literature, people like Asimov became very popular and the burst of a cyber punk scene was a growing story.

“Replicants are like any other machine – they are either a benefit or a hazard. If they are a benefit, it’s not my problem” – Rick Deckard

Cyberpunk is a subgenre of science fiction in a future setting that tends to focus on society as “high tech low life” featuring advanced technological and scientific achievements, such as information technology and cybernetics, juxtaposed with a degree of breakdown or radical change in the social order. Cyberpunk plots often center on conflict among artificial intelligences, hackers, and among megacorporations, and tend to be set in a near-future Earth, rather than in the far-future settings or galactic vistas found in novels such as Isaac Asimov’s Foundation or Frank Herbert’s Dune.

Primary exponents of the cyberpunk field include William Gibson, Neal Stephenson, Bruce Sterling, Bruce Bethke, Pat Cadigan, Rudy Rucker, John Shirley and Philip K. Dick (author of Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?, from which the film Blade Runner was adapted).

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Back in 1982, Blade Runner proposed a realistic version of human society future. By bringing all the elements of the Film Noir and adding a tremendous scenery, Blade Runner created a new genre: the Neo-Noir Film. This realistic version of a possible future, created a counter-culture movement away the big hits like Star Wars. With the development of modern technology and computer systems, the 1982 plot was completely possible. The film depicts a dystopian Los Angeles in which genetically engineered replicants, which are visually indistinguishable from adult humans, are manufactured by the powerful Tyrell Corporation. The use of replicants on Earth is banned and they are exclusively utilized for dangerous or menial work on off-world colonies. Replicants who defy the ban and return to Earth are hunted down and killed (“retired”) by special police operatives known as “Blade Runners”. The plot focuses on a group of recently escaped replicants hiding in L.A. and the burnt-out expert Blade Runner, Rick Deckard (Harrison Ford), who reluctantly agrees to take on one more assignment to hunt them down.

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Please note that the soundtrack of the film is done by Vangelis, that was really breathtaking. A dark modern synthesizer that blends with some world music elements providing a completely different experience for that time. A pure master piece.

Blade Runner happened in 2019, which is 3 years from now. It is interesting to see the way our todays’s society  was seen 37 years ago. Obviouly we do not have a “Replicant problem” but in many was Ridley Scott was not wrong. The new plot is taking place 30 years in the future of the first Blade Runner, so in 2049.

Blade Runner 2049, Ryan Gosling to the rescue

So what happened since the first Blade Runner? Thirty years after the events of the first film, a new blade runner, LAPD Officer K (Ryan Gosling), unearths a long-buried secret that has the potential to plunge what’s left of society into chaos. K’s discovery leads him on a quest to find Rick Deckard (Harrison Ford), a former LAPD blade runner who has been missing for 30 years.


The new film is directed by Denis Villeneuve, a Canadian film director well know for his Maelström film in 2000. A film that got 23 awards around the world and that shows how perfect he his to take the suite of Ridley Scott. Why Blade Runner 2049 is definitely one of the most awaited film next year? Well here are some clear reasons:

  • All fans cannot wait to see Rick Deckard (Harrison Ford) to get back on business
  • Denis Villeneuve is attached to details, so the film should be a master piece.
  • Cyberpunk is more than never a huge trend in times we talk about AI, robotics, etc.
  • A part from Harrison Ford, we have Ryan Gosling, Robin Wright, Dave Bautista, Mackenzie Davis, and Jared Leto in the film.
  • It should be one of the biggest SciFi hits after The Matrix.

The studio has released a set of exclusive photos released by Entertainment magazine. You can see a few of them here:

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Follow the incoming news, features and more teasers at http://bladerunnermovie.com 

José Amorim

Info sourced at the official Blade Runner Website, Wikipedia, IMDB, Verve, Vice, Time magazine. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

Party season fashion: is less really more?

LuxuryActivist
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Reading Time: 4 minutes

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After spending your teenage years experimenting with coloured eyeshadows and pop-star inspired ensembles, discovering your personal style normally means you’ve finally learnt the one key, basic rule the fashion world lives by – less is more. Go for fit, go for quality, and go for style over trends. That’s the fail-safe formula for sartorial success. But then it comes to the festive season and every year the shops fill with a variety of sparkly clothing and accessories. Like all advocates of minimalist chic, you’re suddenly completely lost:

“Is velvet acceptable for the over 10s? How much glitter is too much glitter? Am I really allowed to wear head-to-toe sequins?”

Party wear is tricky, and the one place where a less is more approach isn’t always helpful.

This season’s rule

Take this year’s trends as an example. On the one hand, anything seems to go. A party dress embellished with sequined lace and glittering inlays, or a sparkling bodycon skirt with metallic ankle boots and topped off with a velvet, embroidered overcoat – the more over-the-top the better. Or that seems to have been the high street’s approach to winter fashion, anyway.

Doing all-out partywear right

Despite the over-the-top appearance of the trend, there are still a few key rules for nailing it. Pair sequins and glitz with muted accessories, look to fabric textures – like patent leather – to add shine and go for simple colour schemes to keep your outfit looking expensive. Think everything Balmain the Kardashian’s have been flitting around town in over the past few years for some inspiration in how to do exaggerated sparkle and adornments properly. And at least if you are going against your instincts and jumping on the current high street trend for out-there glitter, the festive party season is the best time to do it.

balmain-cocktail-dress

The growing naked trend

But it’s not your only option. On the opposite end of the scale, in a rebellious extreme of the classic ‘less is more’ rule, is the growing red-carpet naked dress trend. It started with Carrie Bradshaw and the skimpy, nude slip dress she braved date night in, but it’s continued to evolve and is now championed by the likes of Jennifer Lopez and Beyonce. As a modern fashion statement, its peak has to be the almost entirely see-through Swarovski-crystal encrusted gown worn by Rihanna to collect her CFDA Style Icon award back in 2014.

Be warned, though – as daring and stylish as it may be when done right, it’s also not for the faint of heart. Although it’s now trickling down into high street offerings, the only way to pull off a naked dress for your next festive party is by wearing it with an unshakeable confidence.

A middle ground

With two such extremes being flouted as the party look for 2017, it’s hard to know exactly where you want to fit in – and you’re not the only one. This year we’re also witnessing a charming and pretty middle ground popping up in response to current trends. At the end of November, Jennifer Lawrence won the hearts of bloggers and fashion journalists everywhere in a princess red-carpet moment that perfectly straddled the line between less and more. In a simple yet stunning Dior combination, she wore a semi-sheer and embellished tulle ballerina skirt with a cashmere, star-adorned jumper.

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It’s proof that a black-tie invitation doesn’t have to mean traditional formalwear anymore – another key fashion rule to remember if this party season has left you sartorially stumped. You don’t have to stick faithfully to your favourite ‘less is more’ principle, and nor do you have to go all-out glitter either. Contrast textures and styles, and whether you’re going for Lawrence-esque minimalist chic or Balmain glamour, you’ll look effortlessly fashionable.

LA

Info sourced by the author for LuxuryActivist.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

Millennial-Led Trends to Watch Out for in 2017

LuxuryActivist
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Reading Time: 5 minutes

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If you’re born between 1982 and 2004, then you’re a Millennial. The title comes with some negative connotations, but there’s no denying the generation has already made its mark on the world. It’s the generation that’s redefining marriage, work schedules and how we connect with the rest of the world. Millennials are also the largest generation, which means they’ll be a driving force behind many trends in the coming years.

Here are some Millennial-led trends to watch out for in 2017.

Vaping Innovations

The last few years have made it clear that the vaping industry is on an upward swing. A significant contributing factor is the Millennial generation. People in this age group are less likely to smoke cigarettes, but they’re the largest customer base for vaping.

vape-juicy-luxury-vapors

Millennials have helped vaping go mainstream, and now they’re pushing the innovation further. Everything from the cartridges to the e-juice is getting upgraded. For example, Millennial customers prefer vape juice in a diversity of flavors rather than a simple tobacco substitute. And vaporizers go well beyond e-cigarettes with countless accessories for customization. Clearly, the industry is moving away from replicating cigarettes and is set to replace them altogether.

Gap Years

Right now many of the youngest Millennials aren’t in college. They also didn’t go right into the workforce. Instead, they took a gap year. What’s a gap year? It’s a period of downtime (usually a year) between high school and higher education.

During the gap year, kids spend their time traveling, volunteering and exploring. The goal of a gap year is to help kids gain life experience and focus on finding their passion before they choose a major. It can also help teenagers transition into a more independent lifestyle. The trend has become so popular Millennial Malia Obama plans to take a gap year before starting at Harvard.

Flexible Work Schedules

As Millennials came of age so did technology that expanded the workplace. More and more companies are embracing flexible schedules that give employees control over their workweek. One of the biggest reasons employers are making the change is to attract top-performing Millennials.

millennials-work-flexibility

A flexible schedule is a benefit Millennials are looking for while job hunting. They see no reason to shackle themselves to a desk in a specific location for a specified period of time. Millennials take a much more fluid, autonomous approach to work. Instead of pulling a 9-to-5 they’d rather work at any hour of the day and base performance on the work done rather than the hours put in.

Flexible work schedules are so important to Millennials, nearly half will take a lower salary in exchange for flex time. Some experts are estimating that when Millennials become half the workforce in 2020 upwards of half the jobs in the U.S. will be remote positions.

Self-Employment Will Continue to Skyrocket

Many Millennials aren’t just looking for a flexible schedule. They want to take complete control of their job by freelancing or consulting in lieu of a full-time job with a company. Millennials have a very entrepreneurial mindset. It’s only natural that they would prefer to be micro-entrepreneurs by running their own freelance or consulting gig. Millennial freelancers are making a mark in almost every industry and even developing the tools they need to work wherever they want. Not surprisingly, Millennials are behind many of the smart phone apps that have made remote work possible for more people.

This Millennial-driven trend is another way the generation is dramatically changing the workforce. It’s also created a totally new job market. In 2017 you can expect to see a rise in crowdsourced employees. Companies like Lionbridge Technologies Inc. are building rosters of freelancers and connecting them with big name businesses that have gigs available.

Living in a Public Bubble

Between noise-cancelling headphones, connected smart phones and virtual reality headsets it’s common to see Millennials that are in their own world in the middle of a crowd. Tech is being used connect us in amazing new ways, but we’re also using it to isolate ourselves. Millennials are the first generation of digital natives. They’re more likely to fully immerse themselves in new technologies, even if they cut off personal interaction. You can expect to see a continuation of tech accessories that help people create their own private bubble no matter where they are.

Food That’s Socially Responsible

Millennials take their food seriously. They have quickly become a driving force in food trends all the way down to the packaging. One clear influence the generation has had is increasing demand for socially responsible food. Millennials are buying fewer bottles of water and opting for reusable containers instead. They’re requesting more information on how food is produced so they can choose the most eco-friendly option. In response, food producers are now adjusting their marketing strategies to show how they operate behind the scenes. They are using eco-friendly packaging materials and processes. Of course, the food itself is also changing. You can expect to see the organic and locally grown options expand as Millennials get older.

Liz Becker

Info sourced by the author for Luxuryativist.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only.

Pre-SIHH 2017: Piaget and the 60th anniversary of the ALTIPLANO

Arsene Wargas
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0
Reading Time: 4 minutes

One of the remarkable things with watchmaking is the ability watchmakers have to perpetuate traditions. When great creations become iconic, even several decades later, they are still relevant. In a world where economic crisis changes the deal, focusing on  one brand’s strength is a great strategy. 2017 SIHH will be an amazing stage to celebrate Swiss watchmaking.  During the International watch show, Piaget will celebrate the 60th anniversary of its iconic collection ALTIPLANO. 2 versions: one 43mm Automatic movement and another one 38mm manual movement.

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Piaget is for sure the king of ultra-thin movements

It was in 1957 that Piaget created the extraordinary 9P Caliber. Only 2mm thin and for that time (and still today) it is a technical lifetime achievement. At that time there was no modern technology to help achieving this challenge. Some of the components were as thin as the human hair! And it took Piaget only 3 years to launch an automatic movement with only 2.3mm. Thanks to a micro-rotor, it helped to gain space in a considerable way.

According to the brand, in the history of ultra-thin movements, Piaget stands out as a pioneer with its famous Calibre 9P hand-wound movement and Calibre 12P self-winding movement, both representing the thinnest in the world in the category at the time of their respective launches in 1957 and 1960. This legacy has led to modern movements, such as the 430P, 450P and 438P, measuring a mere 2.1 millimetres thick. In the exacting field of ultra-thin calibres, extraordinary mastery is required to push the components to the limits of their capacity and ensure fine adjustment. When it comes to putting technical prowess at the service of creativity, Piaget has no equal. The Manufacture’s artisans took advantage of the new opportunities afforded by these watch movements, creating understated, elegant watches for men as well as jewelled timepieces adorned with precious stones. This mastery has helped forge Piaget’s reputation and singular identity, expressed with particular poignancy by the Altiplano range, which owes its existence to Piaget’s ultra-thin movements.

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With this long-term tradition and know-how, Piaget positioned itself as the ultimate expert in the ultra-thin watches. Decade after decade, Piaget launched the thinnest chronograph, then the thinnest chronograph flyback and thanks to improved technology, miracles are possible. In 2017, SIHH will be the perfect occasion to celebrate 60 years of innovation.

2017 Piaget Altiplano, celebrating 60 years

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With this 60th anniversary, Piaget has the perfect occasion to showcase its precious know-how. In times of crisis, brands with a strong distinctive edge will always win the day. Piaget has a strong added value in terms of product development. With the anniversary versions, 2 models: 43mm and 38mm. The elegant and beautiful deep blue dials highlight the well known Altiplano watch case, which makes a perfect blend between tradition and modernity. Here are the specs for the new Piaget Altiplano:

  • Case: 43mm diameter – 18K white gold, polished – sapphire crystal on both faces
  • Movement: Piaget Manufacture 1200P – in-house – ultra-thin movement 2.35mm thin – automatic winding via micro-rotor – 21,600 vibrations/hours – 29.9 mm diameter – 44h power reserve – hours and minutes
  • Strap: blue alligator strap on white gold pin-buckle
  • Case: 38mm diameter – 18K white gold, polished – sapphire crystal on both faces
  • Movement: Piaget Manufacture 430P – in-house – ultra-thin movement 2.1mm thick – manual winding – 21,600 vibrations/hours – 20.5 mm diameter – 43h power reserve – hours and minutes
  • Strap: blue alligator strap on white gold pin-buckle

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At Piaget they master over 40 professions and it all started in 1874. They control all stages of production, whether is in Geneva or La Côte-des-Fées. By fully integrating production, from manufacturing its movement parts through to the final finishing touch to a watchcase, Piaget thus enjoys complete creative freedom and is able to guarantee the authenticity of its timepieces. That is why the brand can derive legitimate pride from being one of the rare genuine Manufactures currently active in the demanding field of Haute Horlogerie. Do not hesitate to visit the brand website for more information: http://www.piaget.com 

Arsène Wargas

Info sourced at Piaget Pre-SIHH communication release. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

 

 

3 Reasons You Should Book a Skiing Holiday This Winter

LuxuryActivist
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Reading Time: 3 minutes

The hype around holidays always increases during the summer months, with millions of people jetting off to exotic locations for a week or two of sun kissed relaxation. While the views across the sea can be spectacular, they don’t come close to the snowy picturesque scenery you can expect on a skiing holiday. Not only will you see some beautiful sights, but a skiing holiday will be packed full of fun, offering you the chance to learn and perfect a new skill. In this article, we’ve come up with three reasons why you should book a skiing holiday this winter.

Beautiful Locations

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There are many places around the world that you can visit for a skiing holiday. But, no matter where you visit, your destination will be coated in glistening snow, giving a romantic backdrop to whatever you’re doing. You could head to France, Switzerland or Canada and be guaranteed a stunning winter landscape. The accommodation at ski resorts is another great reason to head for a winter ski holiday. The chalets on offer are beautiful and very comfortable, offering you a warm place to relax after a long day skiing. Check out these luxury chalets in Chamonix for an idea of what to expect.

Great Fun

Whether you’re keen on skiing or not, you will have great fun on your skiing holiday. We all get the same excitement we did when we were children upon the sight of snow. So if you’d rather make a snow angel or sit with a hot brew in your chalet admiring the view, a skiing holiday is bound to satisfy your needs. Many ski resorts also offer entertainment alongside your ski pass, such as themed parties and live music nights. Read this article for more information about what to expect.

Learn Something New

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Our third reason to persuade you to book a skiing holiday today is the opportunity to learn a new skill. Here in the UK we don’t get much chance to ski, unless we visit a purpose built centre which is costly, so allow yourself the chance to learn this brilliant sport. It is something that anybody and everybody can do. The satisfaction from starting the holiday as a skiing novice and feeling like a pro by the end will be something to keep you going when back at your office desk. You’ll make some memories and skills that you will never forget, meaning that you’ll be able to book another skiing holiday next year!

Brits love to ski, and with resorts so close by in France, it’s a popular choice for holiday makers, whether travelling as friends, a couple or a family. Skiing is also a very competitively priced holiday option that comes with luxury accommodation and lots to do. So if you’re wanting to keep the kids busy and help them learn a skill to last a lifetime, or you’re looking for something fun to do with your friendship group, then book today. We know you won’t regret it!

Carol

Info sourced by the author for LuxuryActivist.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

Pre-SIHH 2017 – IWC reinvents the Da Vinci Collection

Arsene Wargas
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Reading Time: 3 minutes

IWC is probably one of the best story tellers in the Swiss watch industry. Collection after collection, the Schaffhausen company takes its inspiration from amazing stories and heritage and translate them into beautiful and unique timepieces. During SIHH 2017, IWC will reveal its new variation of the Da Vinci collection. A true celebration to one of the most brilliant minds of human kind: Leonardo Da Vinci.

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In the late 1960s, Leonardo da Vinci’s revolutionary way of thinking inspired IWC to introduce a watch named after him. Even that very first Da Vinci model surprised watch lovers with a special quality that has remained typical of the family to this day: that of always being a little ahead of its time. Many trailblazing innovations have first been developed for use in a Da Vinci. Never before in an IWC wristwatch had a gear train converted the enormous distance travelled by the escape wheel into a single movement of the century slide: between two of these movements, a point on the outer rim of the balance covers a distance equal to 40 times of that around the earth. Its intricate mechanism comprises just 83 components and is extremely simple to use. For the first time in IWC’s history of portable time, the displays for the date, day, month, year, decade, century, millennium and phase of the moon can all be set synchronously, a day at a time, via the crown.

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The Da Vinci was first published in 1985 and was the first perpetual calendar chronograph which handled the unevenness of the Gregorian calendar almost without any user intervention. It indicated the complete four-digit year number, the first two numerals are switched mechanically on a so-called century slide only once every 100 years. At the same time, the Da Vinci was the first complicated watch of this kind, which did not need correction pushers, tables or complicated application guidelines. All its calendar indications are synchronized with each other and can be switched together day by the day even by the crown.

In 2017, IWC will review its Da Vinci Collection by adding a new vision of it. Among the different models we will discover during the SIHH 2017, there is the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This new model will present interesting features to please the Da Vinci collection fan:

  • Three sub-dials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock indicate date, month and day of the week
  • Window at 8 o’clock shows the four-digit year display
  • Slate-colored Dial in the stainless steel version
  • Silver-plated Dial on the Red gold variation
  • Deep blue colored moonphase and chronograph totaliser at 12 o’clock.
  • Central flyback chronograph hand operated by two push buttons
  • 43 mm x 15.5 mm case features a double-curved bezel with rounded pushers and crown
  • Water resistant to 30 metres / 100 feet
  • Sapphire back-case which displays the automatic IWC-manufactured Calibre 89630 and its red-gold rotor
  • Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 kph)
  • 68 hours of power reserve

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For more information about IWC, please connect to the brand official website: http://www.iwc.com. Leonardo Da Vinci dreamed up more inventions and machines, and discovered and documented more of the laws of nature than hundreds of his contemporaries and those who followed him. All his groundbreaking inventions, such as helical gears, bevel gears and complicated screw transmissions, can be found in many machines today, including watches. His work on space-saving spring drives and new escapements, in particular, was crucial to many inventions. IWC remains faithful to the spirit of the Italian creator by revisiting this amazing collection.

Arsène Wargas

Info sourced at IWC communication release. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

3 Big Lies about Feminine Beauty and How to Get Rid of Them.

LuxuryActivist
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Reading Time: 5 minutes

The years 2000 brought femininity to a new area of extremes. We went from an over-sexualized femininity at the beginning of the 21st century towards a more natural approach of things. Still, women have always the pressure to look good and to fit a certain stereotype. Here are 3 big lies and how should you get rid of them.

Lie N.1: Men prefer thin girls

This is obviously a lie. Men in general prefer to have a “little more than a little less”. Men prefer to see shapes and to be able to relate to femininity without any compromise. There are always exceptions but it is interesting to see that almost all the feminine press that has been advertising skinny girls are all leaded by women.

  • Vogue – Anna Wintour
  • Elle magazine – Roberta Myers
  • Harper’s Bazaar – Glenda Bailey
  • Cosmopolitan – Joanna Coles
  • Marie Claire – Anne Fulenwider
  • Net-à-Porter – Lucy Yeomans
  • Glamour – Cynthia Leive
  • InStyle – Laura Brown
  • Madame Figaro – Nicole Picart et Blanche Rival
  • Vanity Fair – Edward Graydon Carter (the exception)

So if for the past 10 years all these powerful magazines have been managed from the editorial side by women, how come we still see images like these?
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It is astonishing to see women writing about fashion trends and trying to influence you about what is cool and what is not by showing so skinny girls. If you take the above first picture of Bella Hadid. She is 5 ft 9 in or 175 cm for 55 kg or 121 pounds. This means she has a BMI of 17.96. Her health is in danger. She should have 10kg more for her heigh. Is she a good example for young girls? No. Same thing with Gigi Hadid. Same BMI. Also not a good example. Seriously girls, with 10kg more you would be just amazing! Here are some key interesting facts about real women and the ones we see on magazines.
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According to an article published in Time Magazine, there is a consistence difference between a man’s perception of the women’s body vs the same perception done by a woman. Several women and men were asked to give their beauty standards by playing with images. Here are the results for women and men about the woman’s body. Interesting to note that men have been much more generous. So please ladies stop thinking about your weight.
ideal-woman-vs-fake

Lie N.2: Grey hair sucks, not really

Funny to see that when men get grey hair we tend to say “what a George Clooney you are“. When a woman gets grey hair people might tell her 2 things:

  • “You are getting old”
  • “When are you going to dye your hair?”

It is admitted that women should dye their hair because grey hair gives an image of someone not taking care of herself unless you are 80 years old and you place yourself as a grand-mother. Is grey hair wrong? Not at all.
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Each age should get its pleasures and advantages. Everybody gets grey hair (and white hair after). It is about getting old (no choice) and genetics. There are times in people’s lives that your hair follicle looses its capacity to pigment the hair. It is part of the natural life cycle. Obviously some people get grey/white hair faster than others. Grey hair is beautiful, you just need to take care of it as the nature of your hair changes. With age, your hair follicles produce less lubricating oils, so your grey/white hair have a natural tendency to become dryer. In order to keep a natural and beautiful look, you might need to change the products you use and eventually complement them with regular moisturizing masks.

Lie N.3: Wrinkles are the enemy of beauty

We are not all equal in front of mother nature. Some people get aging much better than others. Obviously some people request the help of surgery to erase some aging marks. Are wrinkles the enemy of beauty? Not at all. Again, a man with wrinkles is an experienced man with charisma. A woman with wrinkles is… an old lady. This is the image that has been presented during the last decades. Women should feel free from this as wrinkles are part of getting older. 90% of wrinkles are due to sun exposure. So it means that if you treat your skin properly you should age just fine. You can accept your wrinkles are generally they mark important moments of your life. The good moments and the bad ones.

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Still, you can help your skin to get through the ageging process in a good shape. Just keep it clean, mosturized and avoid (if you can) bad habits like sleeping few hours every night, smoking too much, sun over-exposure, stress and too much alcohol. The above pictures of were taken from the latest Pirelli calendar. In this edition, Lindberg decided to do a “photoshop-free” edition which means that each woman shows her true skin and ageing marks. They all look fantastic.

As we can see, the 3 above topics are all lies. They were built to support a false idea of the perfect woman. From a marketing concept we made a society standard and it is interesting to see that standards can change quite fast, sometimes in less than 10 years for some of them. So, do not feel blocked by such pre-concepts. Liberate yourself and live your femininity the way you want.

LA

Info sourced by the author for LuxuryActivist.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only. 

Luxury news: AO YUN, The New Frontier of Winemaking

José Amorim
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0
Reading Time: 7 minutes

Moet Hennessy has a strong heritage of innovation and respect of traditions. This year they are revealing one of their latest projects: AO YUN, wine from China. It is a multiple years project that has the ambition to become the best wine in China. Moet Hennessy put all the required means to make it happen.
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The project is as it is a brand new winery creation: living the dream of any vigneron, it is the opportunity to discover a new region with, rich culture and breathtaking landscapes. After years of research to identify the best region for the project, Moet Hennessy has chosen one with a high-mountain identity: same maximum temperature, lower night temperature, stronger UV, drier end season. This means they do not need to bury the vines in winter and there is enough rain to help the vines grow.
The vineyards are situated in North Yunnan, at the edge of the Himalayas and just below the sacred Meili Mountain that culminates at 6’740m.The local farmers have lived on these lands and adapted to this steep mountain region by building millions of terraces. They breed cattle, collect mushrooms and medicinal plants from higher altitude in the mountains.
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Yunnan, one the richest natural places in the planet

Yunnan is a province of the People’s Republic of China, located in the far southwest of the country. It spans approximately 394,000 square kilometres (152,000 sq mi) and has a population of 45.7 million (2009). The capital of the province is Kunming, formerly also known as Yunnan. The province borders Vietnam, Laos, and Burma. Yunnan is China’s most diverse province, biologically as well as culturally. The province contains snow-capped mountains and true tropical environments, thus supporting an unusually full spectrum of species and vegetation types.
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In the remote northwest corner of the Yunnan province, lies the legendary Shangri-La: lost paradise full of richness and natural resources. AO YUN vineyards are located in Adong, Xidang, Sinong and Shuori, just below the sacred Meili Mountain at altitudes varying from 2’200 to 2’600 meters, to allow the Cabernet Sauvignon to give its finest expression of a unique terroir. An exceptional red wine made of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc.

Wine in China is a 4’600 years old story.

The history of Chinese grape wine has been dated back more than 4,600 years. In 1995, a joint Sino-USA archaeology team including archaeologists from the Archeology Research Institute of Shandong University and American archaeologists under the leadership of Professor Fang Hui investigated the two archaeological sites 20 km to the northeast of Rizhao, and discovered the remnants of a variety of alcoholic beverages including grape wine, rice wine, mead, and several mixed beverages of these wines. Out of more than two hundred ceramic pots discovered at the sites, seven were specifically used for grape wine. We can see that the extraordinary climate of the southern regions of China brings a tremendous opportunity for winemakers to discover a new frontier, build a terroir from scratch which is the ultimate dream of any vineyard owner.

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AO YUN, high altitude Wine for high standards

Ao Yun is made from 314 blocks on 27,7ha of vineyards. All viticulture processes are conducted entirely by hand: weeding, shoot thinning, shoot attaching, secondary shoot thinning, leaf thinning, shoot topping, green harvest, harvest. Each step of the vinification of this wine reflects a best-in-class approach. AO YUN means “flying above the clouds”. It is a dual reference, one for the thick clouds we can see in the region and another for being in the place of Shangri-La. It is a fictional place described in the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton.

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Hilton describes Shangri-La as a mystical, harmonious valley, gently guided from a lamasery, enclosed in the western end of the Kunlun Mountains. Shangri-La has become synonymous with any earthly paradise, and particularly a mythical Himalayan utopia – a permanently happy land, isolated from the outside world. In the novel Lost Horizon, the people who live at Shangri-La are almost immortal, living years beyond the normal lifespan and only very slowly aging in appearance. The word also evokes the imagery of exoticism of the Orient. In the ancient Tibetan scriptures, existence of seven such places is mentioned as Nghe-Beyul Khembalung.

Behind a great wine you find generally a great man. In this case you will fine Maxence Dulou. He was born in France and was initiated into the classic Bordeaux techniques of winemaking and vineyard management. After a strong education on this field in France, Maxence Dulou traveled the world always looking for new challenges and discovering new terroirs. From Chile and South Africa, his approach is a best-in-class angle with a full respect of the local richness.

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After all his travels, he establish himself with his family in the beautiful village of Adong – Yunnan. He took over the responsibility for the AO YUN winemaking and viticulture  teams at the Moët Hennessy Estate. This is what the Decanter.com tells about AO YUN 2013:
“A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is a bold, dramatic and compelling debut wine from winemaker Maxence Dulou. Particularly impressive is the strong sense and imprint of place which is partially revealed by its saturated colour, exquisite ripeness, silky, grainy tannins and exciting freshness. The palate also provides sweet black and red cherry fruit overlaid with cool graphite, camphor as well as notes of juniper, pepper and cumin. Most surprising of all is the 15.1% alcohol which is both balanced and well hidden in the texture and freshness. It’s difficult to predict how long the wine will age and develop. But all the elements are there for a long and happy life.”

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What can we say about the project itself? Well, for sure that Moët Hennessy placed all the required resources in money, time and people to make a great wine. And to obtain a great wine, you need time and patience. The first vines were planted in 2002. Most of them were Cabernet Sauvignon and a small percentage was Cabernet Franc. The altitude of the vineyard makes a climate hotter and drier than the ones you can find at sea level. To give you a comparison, only 250mm of rain fall during summer whereas in Bordeaux you might have up to 750mm. Another interesting topic is the contrast of great sunshine and UV levels during the day and the cold nights. This is beneficial to the metabolism of the vines. The grapes are farmed organically due to a lack of mildew or botrytits, hence no need for chemicals to be sprayed. Just 2,000 cases have been produced and due to the remote area of vineyard, there is little room for expansion. All these conditions makes this wine an exceptional one. A very limited quantity of bottles are available. According to some records only 50 cases will be delivered in the US and another 50 cases in the UK. If you end up with a AO YUN in your glass you can consider yourself as a lucky person.

José Amorim

Info sourced at Moët Hennessy official press release, wikipedia, decanter.com, thefinestbubble.com and jancisrobinson.com. All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only.  

Friday Chronicle #25: Why Programmatic is killing Luxury Brands

José Amorim
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0
Reading Time: 10 minutes

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Digital is evolving is such ways that today we can target and track people in ways that we would not imagine 5 to 10 years ago. Barbarian words such as sequential targeting, re-targeting, re-marketing are current vocabulary for any good digital marketer. The king of all barbarian words would definitely be Programmatic. You can also call it automatic advertising as per the nature of the activity. We can see that today in the world more than 50% of total ad spending in digital is done via programmatic. 27.7 Billion USD is dedicated today for Programmatic buying, from which a large majority is concentrated in the US.

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The main idea of programmatic is to focus on the audience targeting which brings the “environment” in a secondary position. The goal being to reach the right person with the right message no matter where this person is. It is called automatic advertising as only machines can deal with the mechanics. Basically the advertising management system needs to identify in a couple of seconds (the time the webpage loads) who is the person visiting that website, which profile and which message should be delivered to him. Behind programmatic there is the aim to optimize the media investment. Each dollar should be invested to deliver the best message possible to the best audience. The end result being a better ROI and potentially better CTR driving into sales. Who is using programmatic buying today?

  • 96% of top 50 online retailers
  • 9 out of 10 automotive makers
  • More than 50 pure e-tailers
  • Top Electronic consumer goods.

From a brand perspective here are the top 10 Brands with the most spent in programmatic worldwide:

  1. AT6T
  2. Zalando
  3. American Express
  4. Verizon
  5. Chrysler
  6. SouthWest Airlines
  7. Dell
  8. Toyota Motor Corporation
  9. Unilever
  10. General Motors Corporation
    (source: Adweek)

Luxury brands are already running programmatic activity, including the likes of Burberry and Calvin Klein (who have arguably been ambassadors within this sector). Whereas brands with more flexible budgets often have the luxury of strategically placing programmatic underneath the funnel of more impactful advertising, using programmatic to cover reach and re-targeting.

Most of luxury brands will stay away from Programmatic. In times where budgets are tight, Programmatic might represent an interesting approach to maintain a certain reach and visibility. Nevertheless, the battlefield of Luxury Brands is not necessary on ROI. Several points makes programmatic non-valid for Luxury today.

Domination and uniqueness are not achieved via programmatic

What motivates luxury brands to launch digital campaigns? Most of luxury brands believe that the web can provide them a space to tell their stories, to connect to their customers. This direct to consumer approach allows most of luxury brands to create the dream, to have a story-telling approach and to control the environment. Another important point is also the media landscape domination. Luxury brands crave for dominant image among competition as well as to be perceived as innovative, original and to make a long story short: unique. With Programmatic buying you loose this uniqueness as you enter a system that will not allow you to surface higher than the average advertiser.

It is not all about audiences. Environment counts

By embracing Programmatic buying your main focus will be the audience you wish to reach. Performance and ROI will be measured against the audience affinity and the right targeted group you reach. Is this sufficient for luxury brands? Not really. Something that is key to any brand in the luxury industry is what we call the environment. This means the quality and the proper editorial environment in which the advertising message will be displayed. In the below example we can see a watch brand displaying its ad that was bought via programmatic. The aim of this brand was to reach a luxury audience with its advertising message. What happened?
Based in the audience criteria choice, the ad was displayed on Youtube aside of a video called “1 Hour Best of People are Stupid – Ultimate Fail Compilation 2016”. And on top of it we get a in-ad format inside the video about another brand. As you can notice in the screenshot below, the keyword searched was luxury. No idea how this video came in but in any case no luxury brand would clearly pickup this ad placement in full consciousness. The user being a luxury customer will have a bad perception of the watch brand or think it is a very cheap, low end product.

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There is a clear topic that Programmatic gurus have completely forgot. It is the fact that luxury brands wish to choose which moment is the best to connect to their audiences. Most of luxury brands know that at one point of the user journey, they are reaching their customers as they regularly buy products from them. The main question is at what precise moment should they reach a specific customer? Probably when the customer mindset will be the best.

Let’s take a second example of what a luxury brand could do at its best. Here below a second screenshot about a ad campaign for Louis Vuitton Fragrances. As we can see here, today, Louis Vuitton took the homepage of the International New York Times. Working directly with the publisher, he achieved the following:

  • Craft the message and the creative asset to look beautiful
  • Dominate the page completely by taking all ad units (5 ad placements)
  • Be in a safe and proper environment
  • Reach the readership of the INYT (who we assume have a potential great affinity with the brand)

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Luxury brands have the fire power to take opinion leader media dominance. By crafting a specific message to blend into the editorial environment the display advertising message looks more qualitative and even if you do not know the brand, it procures a feeling of luxury. So Luxury brands need to craft their messages as it is not only about the numbers.

Media relationships vs audiences buy-out

One interesting fact with programmatic is the fact that you skip the media relationship in order to get immediate access to audiences. No need of phone calls to the media or trying to negotiate a homepage takeover. You place your order in the DSP and let the magic of technology occurs. For luxury brands that have been crafting their relationship with media owners it is a hard step to take. You loose all the magic of a great integrated operation that is only possible if you work hand in hand with the publisher. In a world where anyone can buy a banner on a website (it is just a matter of money), luxury brands need to stand out. They need to differentiate themselves by proposing original and beautiful display ads.

100% Share of Voice, impossible mission?

Most of luxury brands wish to get a strong idea of exclusivity. In digital advertising this means 2 things, either getting an original format or a unique integration of the website but in general it means they are not sharing the space with other brands. So when Louis Vuitton takes the space in the above example on the INYT homepage, this means the brand will take over all the ad placements in the page. It can be also an entire section buy-out and even a total site buyout. It is what we call 100% share of voice (SOV). Luxury brands are keen to obtain this as they can do a better work by playing with creative synergies. Obviously it means that the publisher will allocate 100% of its ad inventory to the brand. Now with the programmatic evolution, publishers might dedicate a certain % of their ad inventory to programmatic buying. Some companies are dedicating between 5 to 10% of all ad placements to exclusive automatic buying. This means that when a luxury brand wishes to buy-out a specific page at 100%, they might end up sharing the space with other brands, potentially a competitor. Publishers can build black-lists, blocking certain advertisers to appear, but any advertiser that is not in the list can potentially be displayed. So it requires a lot of work and relationship to keep things appropriate. Sometimes it is in deed impossible mission.

Viewability and cheap inventory, things change.

For a very longtime, programmatic buying was considered as delivering a poor and cheap placement within websites. Publishers would offer to programmatic all the junk inventory they usually do not succeed to sell to their premium customers. We are speaking about bottom pages banners, hidden formats in deed subsections, etc… Things have slightly change. Today the concept of viewability is probably the strongest topic of all. According to Kline, between 25 to 60% of any ad campaign is not seen properly by human beings. This concerns ad placements that are not seen by people because they are to low in a page for example. The page and the ad loads, which generates an impression but nobody really see it. There are many reasons why an ad impression might not get viewed. These include:

  • The user does not scroll down a page, enough to view the ad.
  • The user clicks to another web page before the ad finished loading.
  • The user scrolls too fast.
  • The ad loads outside of the browser’s viewport.
  • The user opens a non-mobile optimised web page on a smartphone or tablet.
  • The user minimises the browser.
  • The user opens another browser tab or window.

viewability

This made the pockets of publishers get richer and richer. The maths is easy. You have a homepage. That homepage generates 1Million impressions. If you have 5 ad units in that page, publishers will sell you 5Million impressions, no matter which position the ad units are. Probably people might only see the ones above the fold when they land in that page. it might be only one. Naturally, brands know this and now things are changing. true viewability is important and nobody wants to pay for nothing. So Programmatic is prepared to deliver viewable ads. Browser technology helps to measure when an advertising unit was truly seen by a real person. At the same time, this shows how programmatic get intrusive in a traditional media plan, meaning that you end up with other brands owning certain positions.

Publishers are not victims, they are the executioners.

Each time you talk with publishers about programmatic, specially if you are fighting against it, they will always take a position like “sorry there is nothing we can do“.  Well you sold your inventory to programmatic buying, you did not get stolen right? So it shows publishers also have their interest to have programmatic developed. There is a temptation to plug computers together and just cash the money without even talking to someone (I mean a real person). Nevertheless, publishers have the responsibility to what users will experience in their websites. The quality of display and the brands relevancy should be kept at their highest level.

In conclusion, programmatic is not really ready to deal with Luxury brands. The luxury industry has different expectations that is not all based on performance and audiences. Obviously digital media allows to measure, track and report on hundreds of metrics, which brings a strong visibility on ROI. Nevertheless, luxury brands have also an obligation to showcase a certain idea of exclusivity, quality and innovation.

Jose Amorim

programmatic-strategies-luxury-brands

Info sourced at Kline, Euromonitor, Forbes, Adweek and wikipedia, All content is copyrighted with no reproduction rights available. Images are for illustration purposes only.

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