Courrèges, a brand synonymous with futuristic aesthetics and cutting-edge designs, once again cemented its legacy at the Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025. Under the creative direction of Nicolas Di Felice, the house navigated through its iconic minimalist ethos while also bringing new-age ideas into the fold, creating a seamless blend of tradition and innovation. This collection reverberates with the house’s history while nodding to the future.
This review delves into the show’s nuances, from its location to its defining elements, analyzing its narrative, craftsmanship, and vision for the upcoming season. But first, here is the whole show:
A Nod to André Courrèges: Heritage Meets Modernity
Nicolas Di Felice, appointed as the creative director of Courrèges in 2020, has embraced the monumental task of preserving the house’s iconic legacy while pushing it into new, contemporary directions. André Courrèges, the visionary founder, was renowned for his futuristic, space-age designs that transformed fashion in the 1960s. His creations were defined by clean lines, geometric shapes, and innovative use of materials like vinyl—hallmarks of an avant-garde approach to fashion. Di Felice has remained faithful to these foundational elements, ensuring that Courrèges’ aesthetic DNA is still at the core of every collection.
However, Di Felice has also brought the brand fresh energy and modern relevance. While the Spring/Summer 2025 collection continues to embrace the futuristic ethos that made Courrèges a household name, the designs have evolved. In contrast to the rigid, structured silhouettes of the past, Di Felice has introduced a more fluid and organic shape, signalling a shift toward new femininity. The result is a softer, more wearable take on futurism that resonates with today’s fashion landscape, where versatility and comfort are paramount.
In a press interview, Di Felice emphasized the importance of retaining the “purity of form” that Courrèges always represented, but now with an openness to reinterpretation. This collection expertly balances heritage and innovation, standing as a testament to the brand’s enduring influence while positioning it firmly in the present.
The Spring-Summer 2025 collection
The Courrèges Spring/Summer 2025 collection, under the creative direction of Nicolas Di Felice, masterfully blends the brand’s futuristic heritage with a contemporary twist. The collection is a tribute to the house’s signature minimalism, featuring sleek, clean lines, geometric shapes, and innovative materials like vinyl and translucent fabrics. Di Felice introduces softer, more fluid silhouettes, signalling a shift toward a new, modern, wearable, forward-thinking femininity. With a palette of muted pastels, gender-neutral designs, and a touch of utilitarian elegance, the collection encapsulates a harmonious balance between Courrèges’ iconic space-age aesthetic and the evolving demands of modern fashion.
1. Futuristic Minimalism Reimagined
The signature white vinyl fabric, which has long been a hallmark of Courrèges, took centre stage. However, this time it was reinterpreted with a modern twist. While earlier collections emphasized a structured, almost armour-like use of vinyl, this collection saw it softened into flowing trenches, fitted dresses, and sleek jumpsuits. The glossy finish retained its futuristic appeal, but the garments now moved with the body rather than against it.
Structured shoulders, a nod to the brand’s space-age past, were reimagined in a less exaggerated, more wearable form, creating a feeling of modern empowerment rather than rigidity. The play of proportions—from fitted tops to voluminous pants—reflected a balance between strength and fluidity.
2. Pastel Dreamscape
In an unexpected turn, the collection moved away from Courrèges’ traditional monochrome palette. Di Felice introduced a palette of subdued pastels—soft lavenders, misty blues, and pale pinks. These hues added a dreamlike quality to the collection, signalling a smoother, more romantic approach to futurism.
These pastels were used primarily in tailored pieces, such as boxy blazers and A-line skirts, harking back to the Mod era but with contemporary refinement. Colour-blocking was also a prominent feature, with pastel panels placed alongside classic whites and blacks, creating visual interest without overwhelming the minimalist aesthetic.
3. Translucence and Lightness
Translucent materials made a significant appearance, symbolizing lightness and transparency, literally and metaphorically. Diaphanous dresses, blouses, and outerwear layered over tailored separates hinted at a futuristic utopia where clothing acts as a second skin. These pieces—some made from sheer organza and others from futuristic plastic-like materials—showed off the body without being overtly revealing, offering a sophisticated take on sensuality.
The play on transparency wasn’t just limited to the fabrics and the show’s narrative. Di Felice spoke about the need for more openness in fashion, with the collection being a metaphor for transparency in the fashion industry and the desire for sustainability.
4. Gender Fluidity
Another key theme of the show was the exploration of gender neutrality. While Courrèges has always maintained a strong vision of femininity, this collection saw Di Felice experimenting with gender-fluid designs. Men’s and women’s pieces were styled interchangeably, with oversized blazers, loose trousers, and trench coats all seamlessly transitioning between the two. The androgynous styling wasn’t forced but felt natural, showing how fashion can evolve beyond traditional gender boundaries.
5. Utility Meets Elegance
Courrèges has always incorporated a practical edge, and Di Felice focused on functional pieces. Pockets were a big statement in this collection, from jumpsuits to dresses. These oversized pockets felt practical yet chic, blending functionality with the elegance that Courrèges is celebrated for.
Using zippers, a long-time brand signature, added a touch of industrial flair. Still, this time, they were softer, hidden beneath layers or used as subtle embellishments, emphasizing that utility and luxury coexist.
First fashion show for Margot Frapsauce, a rising fashion star
The Courrèges Spring/Summer 2025 show held special significance as it marked the first-ever fashion show for Margot Frapsauce, one of the industry’s rising stars. As a fresh face in high fashion, her debut on the Courrèges runway instantly captured attention. Frapsauce, who has quickly gained recognition for her unique blend of classic beauty and modern edge, perfectly embodied the brand’s vision of blending past and future.
Walking in her first show for such an iconic label added a layer of excitement and anticipation. Her presence on the runway confidently showcases Courrèges’ futuristic yet wearable designs aligned seamlessly with the brand’s evolving identity. Di Felice’s choice to include Frapsauce in this pivotal collection symbolized the house’s forward-looking spirit—embracing new talent while staying rooted in its innovative heritage. As she walked in sleek, minimalist pieces that celebrated fluidity and strength, Frapsauce’s debut underscored her potential to become a fixture on the fashion scene, just as Courrèges continues to be.
What did we capture from this fashion show?
The Courrèges Spring/Summer 2025 show will be remembered for its masterful blend of heritage and innovation, where Nicolas Di Felice showcased his ability to reimagine the brand’s iconic futuristic identity while keeping the designs sharply tailored and meticulously crafted. The collection featured clean lines, bold geometric shapes, and sharp, precise cuts that emphasized Courrèges’ legacy of minimalism.
Di Felice’s approach is compelling because he brings a sense of refinement and modernity to the brand’s space-age roots. While the silhouettes remained sleek and structured, he introduced a softer edge through more fluid fabrics and a muted colour palette. This shift allowed the collection to feel contemporary and wearable without losing the architectural sharpness that defines Courrèges. His attention to detail, from the fit of the garments to the innovative use of materials like vinyl and sheer fabrics, reflects a vision of minimalism that is both forward-thinking and deeply connected to the brand’s past.
Nicolas Di Felice’s Courrèges Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a masterclass in cutting-edge design—literally and figuratively. His sharp silhouettes and meticulous tailoring carve out a new space for the brand, proving that while fashion may look to the future, the precision of the present truly shapes the runway. In this collection, Di Felice doesn’t just design clothes; he designs a new dimension—where past and future collide with breathtaking clarity.
José Amorim
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