Tag: Fashion

Ronald Falloon, essence of the sixties…

Ronald Fallon is one of the great names in photography during the 60's. He introduced the legend of Marianne Faithfull as the symbol of a new youth. He is our photographer of...

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté for him

Zadig & Voltaire, the french fashion Brand is launching in this beginning of the year a new fragrance duo called Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté for Her and for Him....

Bomber jacket sales surge as London 2012 Olympics boost sporty fashion

Justin Bieber,  Will.i.am and Jude Law in bomber jackets

Justin Bieber, Will.i.am and Jude Law in bomber jackets. Photograph: Rex Features

Thanks to stars such as Jude Law, Justin Bieber and Will.i.am and the influence of this summer's Olympics, retailers are reporting a surge in interest for the bomber jacket.

Luxury retailers and the high street have seen major interest from consumers despite the squeeze on personal finances, with styles in leather, jersey and technical fabrics all selling well.

The online retailer Asos has sold more than 5,000 bomber jackets in the past two months and recently ordered 20,000 more worth 1m for next season.

Topman has also had an "extremely positive reaction" to the jacket shape both in its larger stores and online. It plans to roll out more variations regionally in the coming weeks and will be building on its current range of 15 styles for autumn.

Robert Johnston, associate editor of GQ, said the appeal was simple. "It's express fashion," he said. "Bomber jackets are really easy to wear because you can just shove them on with jeans and a T-shirt. Plus they have pockets, which makes them practical."

Terry Betts, senior buyer for Mr Porter, flagged up their versatility. "They work well with chinos and denim, and create a clean silhouette accentuated by the fact they are fitted and stop at the waist," he said. They have the "wearability factor" said John Mooney, head of men's design at Asos. "There's something for everyone in the bomber jacket repertoire, whether you're a lad's lad or a fashion guy.".

Bomber jackets also have relatively ageless appeal, as shown by the celebrities who have taken to wearing them of late. Stacey Smith, menswear buyer for Matches, said: "Ryan Gosling in Drive last year proved they're not just for the twentysomething man."

Esquire has featured the look on its cover for the past two months. The May issue shows John Hamm in a seersucker style while the current cover has Michael Fassbender in a black leather Gucci version.

Betts said the bomber had evolved from a simple "utility garment in nylon", helping it reach a broader audience. "We have them in seersucker, linen, leather and even reversible versions," he said.

Reece Crisp, men's contemporary and design wear buyer at Selfridges, said the bomber had proved a hit because of strong performances across the board, from traditional varsity styles to luxury versions in leather by labels such as Alexander Wang.

But the bomber's popularity is also a reflection of a move in men's fashion towards sportier clothes, said Crisp. "Sportswear as an aesthetic is really having a moment and the bomber is a staple piece within that look.".

This sporty look has been seen in menswear from upcoming designer names at London fashion week, such as the increasingly influential Christopher Shannon, to powerhouse brands in Paris and Milan. Johnston said luxury sportswear was becoming "increasingly sophisticated".

One of the most influential collections for spring/summer 2012, by Louis Vuitton, featured designer versions of varsity jackets and sporty shorts made from expensive fabrics such as suede.

These are also selling well. Smith has seen a great response from customers towards statement bombers this season. "It seems men are more willing to explore bolder colours and textures when they are tempered by a sportier shape," she said.

Fashion statement: matchy-matchy, and other trends that are ‘on trend’

Matchy matchy clothes

The matchy matchy look:Jessica Biel, Rihanna and a Stella McCartney model show how it's done. Photographs: Getty; Mavrix/Xclusive

Yes, it's official - you're allowed to match your clothes again
Clashing patterns has been all the rage for what seems like an age - yes this week Fashion Statement rhymes. But Jess Cartner-Morley has just broken the news that in fact matchy-matchy is the new fashion compliment you should be hankering after. Firstly, from Stella to Whistles, there's been the surprise success of this season's pyjama set trend. Secondly, designers and the high-street are backing matching print top-and-bottom sets for next season too. This week Topshop's autumn/winter press preview was bursting with co-ordinating separates in all manner of textures and patterns. Oh and Wendi Deng got in on the act with a nail polish and cuff matching moment during Leveson.

Barjis Chohan's AW 2012 Barjis Chohan's AW 2012 collection: "Young, fashionable Muslims are struggling to buy clothes from the Western, high-street shops" Photograph: Barjis Chohan


Muslim fashion is having a moment

Muslim fashion is worth 59 million globally. Vivienne Westwood proteg Barjis Chohan has just launched a fashion-forward, Muslim-focused line. Harrods are selling abayas. This week Sara Ilyas rounded up how Muslim fashion is having a moment while discussing hijab trends and what fashion labels are doing to target a modern Muslim audience.

ASOS Autumn/Winter 2012 key trends ASOS Autumn/Winter 2012 key trends. Photograph: ASOS

There was a lot happening in the world of menswear
Singapore staged a men's fashion week, which Sue-Wen Quek had some issues with. The first London Collections Men schedule was released by the British Fashion Council. As Imogen Fox noted, there are a lot of Christophers (and a Prince) on board for this first men's London fashion week. Savile Row was once again in the spotlight: Charlie Porter thought it needed to "adapt its crafts to the modern world." Gustav Temple meanwhile, argued that there was no place for the likes of Abercrombie & Fitch on this hallowed street. And if this wasn't enough male fashion action then Simon Chilvers' roundup contemplated Russell Brand's select committee look, shoes, and a new knitwear neckline.

Helen Mirren Dolce & Gabbana Helen Mirren on the catwalk at Dolce & Gabbana's autumn/winter 2012 show in Milan earlier this year. Photograph: Olycom SPA/Rex Features

Dolce & Gabbana made the Invisible Woman giddy
She was attending the first Vogue fashion festival and minding her own business, when suddenly the Invisible Woman found herself whisked off to interview Italian power duo Dolce & Gabbana. She loved them. They talked about older women, botox and chocolate. Obvs.

Madonna launches her first fragrance Truth Or Dare at Macy's Madonna launches her first fragrance Truth Or Dare. Photograph: Kevin Mazur/WireImage

Cowell and Madge
Not together. Can you imagine? No, no, no. The world couldn't cope. Instead this week Ask Hadley dealt with why Simon only appears to have two outfits. And perfumer Stephen Nilsen lifted the lid on working with the Queen of Pop on her first fragrance. Cue tales of 8ft high black steel walls and bitching about musk. L.U.V Madonna!

The fashion line-up: Men’s print – in pictures

Different ways to style a particular item of clothing

Key fashion trends of the season: Men’s sport

Link to article: Key fashion trends of the season: Men's sport

Jelmoli, luxury department store in Zurich

Jelmoli is a luxury Department store in Zurich, Switzerland and probably one of the oldest in the world. Their Claim: The house of Brands. During the Sisley event last week for the launch...

Men’s fashion

Men's fashion 1966

Suits designed in 1966 by Aquascutum and Simpson-Daks, members of the British Menswear Guild. Photograph: Keystone/Getty Images

The growing variety in men's clothes has reached a point where the tailoring world talks of rival styles. In Britain, it is the Flare line; in Germany, the Flowerpot line; in America, it is the Ivy League. Named designers of men's clothes are conspicuously absent, particularly in Britain.

Whatever the designer's interpretation of what men (or, as often or not, their womenfolk) want in clothes, it is increasingly apparent that we are fast moving towards an "international" style. Of course, there will be variations: age modifications between, say, the "teenager," the "man about town" and the "professional man", plus national variations.

Just as Paris has had to fight to resist the challenge of Italy and America in women's fashion, so today Savile Row is making a stand to retain some claim for traditional British bespoke tailoring. Hence, the Flare line, London's first major attempt for a decade to introduce a revolutionary new style. Will it succeed?

This spring's version of the Flare line, first introduced a year ago, is modified to the point where it at least becomes a practicable proposition. It is essentially the marriage of a cavalry-type jacket, longish in length and flared, and semi-bell-bottomed trousers with turn-ups.

Combined with it is the growing emphasis on brighter colours, on bold checks for country and Italian-inspired stripes for town wear. Waistcoats pick up a single colour from woollen or worsted suiting and are further enlivened by a novel cut.

Already, Savile Row reports that some of London's bold pioneers are adopting and adapting the Flare line. It will need further modification, however, before the ready-tailored manufacturers attempt to market it on a mass scale. Which is probably why the bespoke tailors have plunged for it.

The continental Flowerpot style is slender-making. The emphasis is on freedom of movement. It appeals as much to the young man on the continent as to those who wish to hide middle-age spread.

The jacket is directly opposed to the British conception. It is short with natural sloping shoulders, narrow lapels and slim sleeves to give the arms more emphasis. The trousers hug the hips and have very narrow bottoms without the turn-ups.

A touch of continental logic: bespoke tailors now cut the trouser knee on slightly fuller lines; this, together with a lining from the knee upwards, prevents bagging.

In America, this same mood of casualness has been developed over the years from what the college students wore into what has become known as the Ivy League line. Extreme forms of the Ivy, popular with younger men, are similar to our Edwardian style.

Already an American version of the Flowerpot has appeared, known as the Continental. No doubt each country will adopt its rival's styles. It becomes harder and harder to spot a man's nationality by his clothes.

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