Martin Margiela is a belgium fashion designer and represented with Rei Kawakubo the important leaders of desconstruction. Today he became a mystery, specially after the Diesel company had bought the brand. An article in New York Times dated October 1, 2008, gave many in the fashion world their first glimpse of Margiela’s face, as well as breaking the news that he allegedly offered to hand the reins of his company over to Raf Simons, who appears to have declined the offer. In October, 2009, Margiela majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso finally made public: “Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015.” A press release announced in December last year, that Margiela “has left the business. No replacement creative director will be appointed. Maison Martin Margiela will continue trading but the company declined to comment on the reasons for Margiela’s exit. Can Martin Margiela survive to Martin Margiela ? Not sure… We all know that only a few brands survived in such situation. Wait and see. For the moment L’Oréal, who also possess the Fragrance License for Diesel, has launched this year the first Fragrance under Martin Margiela. They wanted to capitalize on the discrete, almost mysterious and enigmatic personality of the creator. By the way, it is very rare to see Martin Margiela’s face because he refuses photos and celebrity. Here is one of the rare pictures of him. Infortunately the fragrance is not a masterpiece. The name of the fragrance is “untitled”. Easy but still let’s say it is coherent with the brand. And the white colour too. But that’s it basically. It is a product not so interesting. A would compare it to Yohji Yamamoto fragrances. This brand was previously developped by Procter & Gamble, another giant in the fragrance business. We can say that these huge groups do not have the right people to develop such brands. These are too intellectual and need a big marketing and creative work to bring them at a level of interest and desire that is shared with customers. I can easily say that untitled of Martin Margiela will not last for ever although it is a beautiful brand and a beautiful name. The scent is either too intellectual or too minimalistic. Ok, I know that “less is more” but there are limits… here the video of the perfumer who explains the fragrance approach.
The funny thing on this video is the man at the beginning that ONLY get out fragrance brands that only belong to competion… is there a hidden message ?