Geneva, 27th of March 2024 – The day I met with Olivier Polge for an exclusive Masterclass. In an ambience brimming with the timeless elegance of CHANEL, I had the unparalleled opportunity to immerse myself in a world shaped by scents during a masterclass led by none other than Olivier Polge, the esteemed in-house perfumer of CHANEL. This remarkable event took place on March 27th in Geneva, set against the backdrop of a private gathering to celebrate the launch of their new fragrance, Comète, under the prestigious Les Exclusifs de CHANEL collection. Engaging directly with Olivier Polge, a true icon in perfumery, was nothing short of inspiring. His insights into the craft of fragrance creation offered a rare glimpse into the meticulous artistry that defines CHANEL’s olfactory signatures. In this article, I am thrilled to share my notes from this extraordinary encounter—focusing on the most captivating insights and revelations. Join me as we delve into the essence of luxury, creativity, and passion, guided by the masterful Olivier Polge.
Olivier Polge is a true talent shaped by creative and artistic values.
Olivier Polge sees his profession as a unique know-how, both artisanal and artistic, an expertise that has been integrated into the CHANEL House since the creation of the N°5 fragrance in 1921. If the past obliges him, he finds it a fascinating lexicon he strives to conjugate with the future. At the head of the CHANEL Laboratory of Fragrance Creation and Development, he ensures the continuity of the fragrances that have become legendary. He imagines the classics of tomorrow, memorable and recognizable scents that are the essence of an era without ever yielding to short-term trends.
“At CHANEL, we work with raw materials like a painter would work with his palette of colors”
one of the keys received by Olivier Polge when he became the fourth nose in the history of the House in 2015.
His predecessor as the in-house perfumer is none other than his father, Jacques Polge, whom he succeeded after a few detours in the History of Art, training as a perfumer in Grasse, and international recognition in his profession, notably at IFF on both sides of the Atlantic.
As a teenager, Olivier Polge discovered the piano and was so dazzled by it that he still plays daily, even if he is now obsessed with different notes. “When, at 20 years old, I started learning the trade, I discovered that music and perfume shared the same language. I was going to have to compose and write formulas made of notes and chords,” he says.
At CHANEL, he has already imagined some fifteen fragrances. He appreciates the diversity of expression between the different fragrance lines and the collections LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL or LES EAUX DE CHANEL. He likes to translate into fragrance the markers of CHANEL’s style — the tension between freedom and constraint, the relative uncertainty separating male and female, and the complexity behind apparent simplicity. He imagined the olfactory portrait of Misia and built a repertoire of “eaux fraîches” for the House’s emblematic locations (PARIS-BIARRITZ, PARIS-VENISE, PARIS-DEAUVILLE, PARIS-RIVIERA as well as PARIS-EDIMBOURG and PARIS-PARIS). For GABRIELLE CHANEL, he conducted a score of white flowers. When working on the House’s iconic fragrance, N°5, and creating a fresh and contemporary version, N°5 L’EAU, Olivier Polge sought continuity in the purity. The world of scents offers him a palette that he refines, transforms and shapes “like a dress”, in accordance with the precepts of Mademoiselle Chanel, until instinct tells him that the perfume is complete. That the material has turned into art.
The Masterclass by Olivier Polge.
At the masterclass held in Geneva for the unveiling of CHANEL’s latest olfactory masterpiece, esteemed art historian Benoît Dauvergne engaged in a compelling dialogue with Olivier Polge, the visionary in-house perfumer of CHANEL, on the nuances of creation within the iconic brand. Central to their discussion was the profound insight that crafting a CHANEL fragrance transcends mere conceptualization; it demands the infusion of genuine significance into the heart of the idea. Polge emphasized that a perfumer must navigate beyond the superficial allure of an initial image or theme, embarking on a quest to imbue his creation with profound depth and purpose.
Olivier Polge noted that the liberty afforded in CHANEL’s creative process does not dilute the idea but enriches each scent’s tapestry with complexity and nuance. Despite the vast expanse of creative freedom, the guiding vision behind each fragrance remains impeccably defined and articulated. This delicate balance of freedom and clarity, as articulated by Olivier Polge, illustrates the meticulous craftsmanship and philosophical rigour that CHANEL imbues in every bottle, making it a beacon of luxury, innovation, and timeless appeal in perfumery.
Three precedent generations of in-house perfumers through the eyes of Olivier Polge.
During this dialogue, Olivier Polge reflected on the House’s amazing heritage, discussing each generation of in-house perfumers and their primary creations. The first nose was, of course, Ernest Beaux. When Gabrielle Chanel met with Ernest Beaux, she knew she had found the right artist to translate her modern ideas of revolution into a fragrance. A lot of myths are told about how CHANEL N°5 was created. However, it is essential to highlight that it was a true revolution at its launch, opening a new era of modernity for the entire fragrance industry.
Away from a traditional figurative perfumery, CHANEL N°5 introduced what you see in art with Cubism, Dadaïsm and Surrealism. It was a different way to interpret nature. There was an artistic intention. We have a dazzling bouquet boosting the jasmine, the ylang-ylang, and the rose, yet no identifiable note is left to a standard vision of things. Thanks to the aldehydes’ magical alchemy, CHANEL N°5 throw people off the scent, not evoking any one flower, to become “a woman’s fragrance with the woman scent”. Olivier Polge also mentioned a second creation by Ernest Beaux: Bois des Iles. In 1922, the Le Boeuf sur le Toit cabaret opened in Paris, immediately becoming the epicentre of the avant-garde. Those nights of the Roaring Twenties inspired Gabrielle Chanel to create this sensual and spicy fragrance that evokes the beckoning waters of distant lands. Ernest Beaux translated Mademoiselle Chanel’s vision through a masterwork made of New Caledonian sandalwood, ylang-ylang and tonka bean.
The second in-house perfumer was Henri Robert, a true legend in perfumery creation who inspired generations of perfumers worldwide and enchanted many CHANEL fans with his iconic creations. He worked at CHANEL for over 20 years. and created amazing fragrances that also marked CHANEL’s fragrance history. Olivier Polge named a few: N°19, Cristalle and Pour Monsieur. Henri Robert also preserved CHANEL N°5 over the years, ensuring the quality and consistency of such creations would remain throughout the ages. He would always fight for the best qualities of raw materials like Jasmine and never compromise on the quality.
His mission was also to launch a new feminine fragrance, but how could he create something outstanding after the House signature fragrance created by his predecessor? Then, CHANEL N°19 was born. Considered a true masterpiece, Henri Robert pursued the mythologie of CHANEL with a new contemporary vision of femininity.
Another exciting fact underlined by Olivier Polge was that Pour Monsieur was the only fragrance for men created while Gabrielle Chanel was still alive. Mademoiselle gave it to men as a true gift and led masculine perfumery for decades.
Last but not least, Olivier Polge spoke about his father, Jacques Polge. It was for sure a very personal moment that highlighted Olivier’s respect for a great creator beyond his family connection. He mentioned one master creation by his father, that is EGOISTE. It was not only Olivier’s fragrance when he was young, but he also mentioned the olfactory connection with Bois des Iles, and we could see almost the circle of CHANEL’s creation. Of course, he also mentioned Allure, among other amazing creations by Jacques Polge.
Oliver Polge is the fourth generation of in-house perfumers. These four creators share a passion for excellence, freedom of creation, and true loyalty to CHANEL’s tremendous unlimited universe. Gabrielle Chanel has inspired and still inspires all creations. She has established all the rules and all the symbols as a true visionary ahead of her time. Gabrielle Chanel’s heritage has never been so relevant today in a world desperately looking for meaningful creations.
Olivier Polge, what makes a CHANEL fragrance?
For several minutes, Olivier tried to explain what was unique about a CHANEL fragrance that would make it immediately recognizable. Olivier started by saying there is no magical formula. Eventually, CHANEL N°5 explains it all: to create a fragrance made from a strong idea, never figurative, always filtered, to fracture nature into something more than the elements. Jasmine seems to be a common denominator but is never used as expected. There is no copy-paste in CHANEL’s creations. On the contrary, there is a lot of freedom. Each fragrance has a different creative process. It all starts with an idea, a symbol inspired by Gabrielle Chanel and her creations, and then, the freedom of creation takes the lead to conclude into a piece of olfactory art.
“Jamais l’évidence !”
Never what is obvious! – Says Olivier Polge during the masterclass
When asked about the length of creating a fragrance at CHANEL, Olivier answered that there are no patterns for that. A fragrance is finished when it is finished. Each story requires the right amount of time, and there is no commercial pressure to launch a fragrance under a certain rhythm.
Olivier Polge about his work.
There is a lot of modesty in Olivier Polge’s words and vision. Considered one of his generation’s most talented perfumers, he took over Jacques Polge as an in-house perfumer in 2015. Since then, his path has been underlined by unique creations that settled Olivier’s mastery as a true reference in the perfumery industry. So far, he has already climbed several Everests, with the successful launches of N°5 L’EAU in 2016, GABRIELLE CHANEL in 2017, LES EAUX DE CHANEL since 2018, BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM and this year, COMÈTE – LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL
2015
– MISIA – LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL
– CHANCE EAU VIVE
2016
– BOY CHANEL – LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL
– N°5 L’EAU
2017
– GABRIELLE CHANEL
2018
– PARIS-DEAUVILLE, PARIS-BIARRITZ, PARIS-VENISE – LES EAUX DE CHANEL
– COCO MADEMOISELLE EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE
– BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM
– 1957 – LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL
2019
– CHANCE EAU TENDRE EAU DE PARFUM
– PARIS-RIVIERA – LES EAUX DE CHANEL
– GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE
2020
– COCO MADEMOISELLE L’EAU PRIVÉE
– LE LION DE CHANEL – LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL
2021
– PARIS-EDIMBOURG – LES EAUX DE CHANEL
2022
– PARIS-PARIS – LES EAUX DE CHANEL
– GABRIELLE CHANEL PARFUM
2023
– CHANCE EAU FRAÎCHE – EAU DE PARFUM
2024
– COMÈTE – LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL
To conclude,
I witnessed an extraordinary narrative—a masterclass with Olivier Polge, the olfactory genius within the House of CHANEL. This encounter was an education and an odyssey through the intimate corridors of creation, heritage, and unparalleled innovation that define CHANEL’s fragrant legacy. Olivier Polge, as the fourth-generation in-house perfumer, shared not just the mechanics but the soul behind CHANEL’s scents, blending tradition with audacious creativity to craft fragrances that defy the obvious and eschew the figurative.
From Olivier’s masterclass, I learned that a CHANEL fragrance begins with a potent idea. This visionary spark is then given form through unrestricted creative freedom without compromising on excellence. The essence of CHANEL lies in its ability to turn material into art, making the invisible unforgettable—a testament to a legacy that is always felt, never seen.
As the session drew to a close, I was left with a profound realization: in the world of CHANEL, fragrances are not just created; they are composed, much like a symphony, with each note playing its part in a larger, mesmerizing story. This masterclass was not just a lesson in perfumery but a gateway to understanding the art of storytelling through scent. As told by Olivier Polge, the narrative of CHANEL is one where every creation is a comet in the vast expanse of the fragrance universe—bright, unique, and trailblazing. Truly, in the realm of CHANEL, the air we breathe is not just scented but storied, leaving us longing for the next chapter in this olfactory tale.
José Amorim
The author sourced the information to luxuryactivist.com. All content is copyrighted, and reproduction rights are not available. Images are for illustration purposes only.
